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Water Temp flashes 270 all the time with no codes


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I replaced the ECU for the fuel pump issues looked like the last guy jumped the wrong wires. Now I have a water temp that always flashes 270. According to the wiring diagram I need to find the green wire with the blue dashes on it and for the love of God I can find it up by the instrument cluster  

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The fan comes on when the engine runs for about 7 minutes just sitting in the driveway. 

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ECT has two sensors in one. The ECM has no intel of the coolant temp to Instrument Panel sensor, so No Fault Code for it.

Do you have three wires at the ECT. And one of them Green/Blue? This wire should definitely be at the Blue 10P connector for the Instrument Panel. If its not, something is horribly wrong or strangely modified!

 

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Yes, it has 3 wires to the ECT   blue with gray dashes to the 10 blue plug to the instrument panel 3rd pin from the left. The other two are 

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BLUE 10P  wire is blue with gray dashes good continuity

 

ECU         G/Y good continuity

                Y/B good continuity      Getting 5 volts  

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On 4/11/2024 at 11:05 PM, n3n3 said:

Yes, it has 3 wires to the ECT   (green/yellow) (green/orange) to the ECU  other  yellow/blues to the instrument panel  

 

On 4/12/2024 at 10:04 AM, n3n3 said:

BLUE 10P  wire is blue with gray dashes good continuity

 

ECU         G/B good continuity

                Y/B good continuity      Getting 5 volts  

 

I don't know what or if ANY wiring diagram you are referring to??

 

1. You stated - "Yellow/Blues to the Insturment Panel" ! According to the 5gen drawing I have there is NO Yellow/Blue wire within the 17 wires going to the Instrument Panel.

2. Next you state - And at least you have this one right! You have continuity of the Yellow/Blue wire back to the ECM. However, the Yellow/Blue does Not go to two places!

3. You stated - On the 10P Blue connector you have good continuity of the Blue/Gray wire! Continuity to What? There is No Blue/Gray wire! Are you referring to the Gray/Black (incorrectly colored on the drawing as Gray/Blue) wire? If so, it's good to know your Fuel Sender Unit wiring is OK!

4. You stated - The "G/B good continuity to the ECU" Are you referring to the ECT Green/Blue wire? There is No Green/Blue wire at the ECM and this is the wire that SHOULD be at the Instrument Panel 10P Blue connector for Engine Temp readout!

5. You stated - You cannot find a Green/Blue wire at the Instrument Panel. Have you bothered to count the wires at the 10P Blue plug? Do you see 8 wires or only 7?

6. It's been mentioned the ECT has two independent sensors within it, and the drawing Clearly shows that. It was also mentioned the ECM has nothing to do with the Sensor feeding the Instrument Panel so why are you wasting time and complicating the issue by looking at the ECM sensor? You only need to properly verify continuity of the Green/Blue from the ECT up to the Instrument Panel, or further into the panel.

7. You stated "I replaced the ECU for the fuel pump issues looked like the last guy jumped the wrong wires. Now I have a water temp that always flashes 270". You had flashing 270 BEFORE replacing the ECM.

8. WHY are you NOT telling us the full story. Once again sending other unaware members that might offer assistance on a wild goose chase by suggesting you do the Service Manual checks on the ECT, replacing a faulty ECT and checking the wiring etc. According to your other post (2000 VFR800 fuel pump no power) you have already done the Tests, Replaced the ECT and member - Terry has suggested checking for a "broken (or disconnected) wire". That would be the One wire going to the Instrument Panel, a Green/Blue wire! Is the replacement ECT sensor a genuine OEM item?

9. Potentially, you could also have either a faulty instrument, or open circuit copper track on the panel PCB, or poor contact of the Blue 10P connector to the PCB. Perhaps the ECT plug has a dirty socket or poor contact on the Green/Blue wire, perhaps a poor Green/Blue wire joint going through the 6P Mini connector. 

 

Hopefully someone else can sort your issues out, I'm done! You've created a confusing mess out of this one.

Good Luck anyway, hope you get it sorted.

 

 

Screenshot_20240412_114943_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20240412_113920_Gallery.jpg

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Ok, it was a long day. To make things clear the ECT does have 3 wires but not the same color as the wire diagram I confirmed this by checking each wire for continuity point to point.  I took a picture at the ECT this morning after it was reinstalled so you only see 2 out of the 3 wires.

BLUE 10P  wire is blue with gray dashes continuity to the instrument panel. I don't remember if the Green with a red line or the Yellow with the blue line had the 5 volts

 

ECU         G/R good continuity

                Y/B good continuity        

IMG_0865.jpeg

IMG_0867.jpeg

IMG_0868.jpeg

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2nd picture 4th wire from the right yellow with blue stripe and 3rd picture wire Green with red stripe 

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This is all quite mysterious as the colours don't seem to reflect the appropriate version diagram; assuming you have got the right one for your model. Could the wiring loom have been swapped out for an alternative?

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6 hours ago, Presson said:

This is all quite mysterious as the colours don't seem to reflect the appropriate version diagram; assuming you have got the right one for your model. Could the wiring loom have been swapped out for an alternative?

Hi  Presson.

Assuming his wiring loom hasn't been swapped out, his version is the After 99 model having O2 sensors which are wired into the Gray connector. However the ECT sensor wire colors remain the same between the two versions.

 

Far easier working with the earlier nice Hi Rez colorized drawing for 99% of fault finding, compared to the correct but Black and White after 1999 version.

 

See attached, sorry no color version available. Gray connector is on the Right.

 

Screenshot_20240413-075350_Adobe Acrobat.jpg

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I was told no and it doesn't appear to have been changed its a 2000 VFR800 USA model

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1 hour ago, Grum said:

Hi  Presson.

Assuming his wiring loom hasn't been swapped out, his version is the After 99 model having O2 sensors which are wired into the Gray connector. However the ECT sensor wire colors remain the same between the two versions.

 

Far easier working with the earlier nice Hi Rez colorized drawing for 99% of fault finding, compared to the correct but Black and White after 1999 version.

 

See attached, sorry no color version available. Gray connector is on the Right.

 

Screenshot_20240413-075350_Adobe Acrobat.jpg

Ok, so this is the correct wire diagram. Thanks thought I was going crazy!

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1 hour ago, n3n3 said:

Ok, so this is the correct wire diagram. Thanks thought I was going crazy!

And to avoid repeating myself yet again......

Refer Items 6,8 and 9 above!

 

Info - Wire and trace colour at the ECT may have faded due to heat cycles.

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item   6  Yes I have already stated I have continuity in all 3 wires

item   8   You are incorrect the wire is not green/blue it is blue with gray dashes

item   9   I don't see that one

Thanks for your help maybe it's just how you respond but you sound very condescending no reason for that. We are all fellow riders and Im trying to learn. Thanks again 

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11 hours ago, n3n3 said:

item   6  Yes I have already stated I have continuity in all 3 wires

item   8   You are incorrect the wire is not green/blue it is blue with gray dashes

item   9   I don't see that one

Thanks for your help maybe it's just how you respond but you sound very condescending no reason for that. We are all fellow riders and Im trying to learn. Thanks again 

 

8. So you're saying the Green/Blue from the ECT somwhere changes to a Blue/Gray at the Instrument Panel? AND that doesn't appear on the Pre or Post 99 Drawiings!

AND if you look closely, unfortunately the colored drawing shows a Gray/Blue wire........That is incorrectly colored and is actually a Gray/Black (Gr/Bl) wire and goes to the Fuel Sender. However, with BOTH drawings there is NO reference to a Blue/Gray (Bu/Gr) wire amongst the 17 Instrument Panel wires?

The ONLY two Blue (main wire color) wires at the Instrument Panel are a Blue/Red = Oil Pressure Light, and, Blue/Black = Hi Beam indicator Light.

 

I don't have a 5th gen, never have, so I can only go by relevant drawings be they Right or Wrong!! So it's impossible for me to verify this Blue/Gray wire you talk of.

 

9. Go back and check I added the number 9 to that paragraph this morning to draw attention to it.

 

"you sound very condescending no reason for that". Short memory mate, and yes I do have reasons. And still no mention that you have replaced the ECT. I hope you fitted a genuine OEM and not some Chinese cheapy!

However, you've got tons of info provided which should hopefully resolve your issue, you just need to use it, along with the Service Manual and wiring diagram.

 

Info - Wire coding and drawings.. Eg A  Bu/Gr - Blue is the Main wire colour, Gray is its stripe being the trace. No trace = a solid color wire. See attached wire table.

 

AND - I do mean it, Good Luck and hope you have it resolved soon.

 

Screenshot_20240413_150300_Gallery.jpg

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I am no expert when it comes to electrical stuff but going back to first principles and from what I understand from Grum's detailed and patient advice:

 

1. There is one relevant wire that goes from the ECT to the instrument panel. It's shown as G/Bu in the diagrams. But the colour may have altered with heat/age.

2. A broken circuit in this wire or a faulty relevant track in the instrument panel will show up as a permanently flashing 270 temp reading.

3. Use of a non OEM or faulty ECT sensor could also cause the permanent 270 flashing reading.

 

Based on the understanding in 1-3 above my approach would be:

 

4. Confirm which wire runs from the ECT through to the instrument panel relevant pin and check continuity throughout the run including cleaning any relevant intermediate connections. If colours have faded or changed this will need patient methodical checking and I'd recommend a written note of what you find at each connection.

 

If continuity in this wire is good the problem will either be a faulty sensor or a corroded or dirty track in the instrument panel. 

 

5. There is a fault finding test in the manual for the ECT - run that to confirm or eliminate a problem with the sensor

 

6. If it's not the sensor you will need to check the tracks inside the instrument panel - there are posts on this site of how to do that

 

I hope I've understood this right. As a disclaimer, I have no experience of a 5th Gen and I have not read the 5 Gen manual- this is taken from the advice you've been offered. Good luck.

 

 

 

 

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What is the colour of the wire at the back of this pin (Red arrow) of the 10P Blue Instrument Panel Plug? This is the Temperature input from the ECT sensor.

But wait there's more! Incase you need to check further........... Mapped out the PCB tracks and connection point for LCD Temperature Display. Just follow the Yellow Brick Road highlighting, (ignore red arrows and comments lower part of picture.)

20240413_180220.jpg

image1(3).JPG

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Good morning and thank you for your continued support. Yes I have continuity on the yellow brick Road.

image.jpg

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13 minutes ago, n3n3 said:

Good morning and thank you for your continued support. Yes I have continuity on the yellow brick Road.

Great half an answer! And what was mentioned in Bold print, seems like you didn't read it.

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Refit the ECT Sensor plug. Measure at the 10P Blue connector between the pin you've located as going to the ECT and the Green/Black (Ground ) wire pin also on the Blue 10P connector.

WHAT RESISTANCE VALUE DO YOU MEASURE.?

 

And just for a third time - care to give an answer to what was previously Asked? ......

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Whatever you want to call this  color. I will go with Grumpy Grum says he truly is the expert along with Preston. I have a ECT on order. Thank guys will keep everyone updated hopefully this fixes my issue. With the sensor plugged in I get 30.1 ohms  key on or off doesn’t change. To be clear that just the sensor plugged in and continuity to the pin before it goes into the instrument panel

image.jpg

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Electrical fault finding can be very frustrating particularly if ( like me) one is not that experienced at it. That's why many of us use the experts on this site.

 

However, it is really important to follow the steps of advice exactly and report back findings on those steps as requested. That's also the better way to learn because the approach has  logical structure.

 

Missing out bits, giving half answers or introducing new stuff makes having the conversation frustrating or downright infuriating. We're all human and everyone offering help on here is genuinely interested in getting a fellow biker back on the road. But being frustrated by half answers will test anyone's patience eventually.

 

I do hope you get this sorted. Cheers!

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Well well. A Green/Blue wire! The wiring diagrams Are Correct.

And you wonder why you've made me a "Grumpy Grum"......Should be as obvious as the correct Green/Blue wire I'm seeing for Temperature Input Not a "blue with gray dashes" and that it took three requests for you check it. As for those gray dashes you mention I have no idea what they are for. 

 

And why only now, you're admitting to having ordered a replacement ECT sometime back, after you stated on the other post (2000 VFR800 fuel pump no power) that you did the Service Manual tests and suspected it was faulty back then?

30.1 Ohms is Miles out of tolerance. You could have saved us all a hell of a lot of time wasting, sounds like another wild goose chase per the ECM saga, I'm convinced you knew about the blown ECM all along.

 

And this - 

"BLUE 10P  wire is blue with gray dashes good continuity." Question asked, continuity to What? You were looking at the Lb wire Light Blue - For the R/H Turn Indicator Light!

And this -

"item   8   You are incorrect the wire is not green/blue it is blue with gray dashes" Sorry not so! But correct if chasing a Turn Light fault.

 

Seriously, trying to sort out your problems via a keybord 14,000km away is near impossible (well for me anyway) when your feedback has been confusing, with very little clear info, jumping off track, or not answering questions, it just makes the whole interaction messy, difficult to follow, and time wasting.

 

As for the insult - "Grumpy Grum says he truly is the expert." I've never said that in my 67 years existence, I don't hold back or hide info from people and enjoy passing whatever helpful info I may have to help others, even You! I've worked with people who kept important, helpful info from others, a job security issue perhaps, that ain't me. But frankly I couldn't care less mate!

 

Enough said, good luck with it all, guess you don't believe this, but I hope you get that bike up and running ASAP. This time I'm definitely done.

Cheers:fing02:

 

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