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Chain Oiler Comparo, final update


esystem%20-%20how%20it%20works%20full.jpg

Today I removed the Pro-Oiler from the VFR. Not because I don't like it. I do! But I am selling the bike, and the new owner doesn't want it. Better for it to stay here where it can eventually get used again, than to go in the trash when the new owner of my VFR comes to pick it up next weekend.

Meanwhile the TDM has been laid up all season waiting for brake work. First it was waiting for parts, and then the parts came in but by then it was full summer and I haven't wanted to take time away from riding the other bikes to work in a hot garage. While the TDM has been sitting there, the Scottoiler has leaked all of its oil out onto the garage floor. I have not worked on it, but my guess is that when I had to apply vacuum to prime it again, after I let it run dry last year, I drew in too much oil and I plugged the breather. As my garage heats and cools every day, it sucks up a little oil each night, and pushes it out onto the floor the next day. I'm sure it will be an easy fix, if I would just get around to it. But instead I intend to move the Pro Oiler to the TDM, since it is cleaner and easier to maintain and I now have one sitting on the bench just waiting to go on the bike. I'll be writing to the Pro-Oiler folks to see about getting the parts needed to fit it to the TDM.

The oilers worked very well to preserve the chains; they made chain drive almost as trouble free as a shaft drive. I intend to install oilers on all my future chain drive bikes. They are definitely worth having.

The winner of this comparo is the Pro-Oiler, but the Scottoiler is also a worthy competitor and you could do a lot worse than to use either one.

Since I started this comparo I have seen two other interesting oilers reviewed in magazines. Note I haven't tried either, or seen them in person. But this is what I think, based on the information available.

Cameleon Oiler

This oiler has an electric pump, like the Pro-Oiler (and the Hawke Oiler). It is not as complex. It is programmed by choose a flow rate that will apply anytime the unit is powered up. You just attach it to switched power; no need to wire it into the speedometer circuit. So it's easier to install, but not as fine-tuneable. It also has an unique and ingenious oil reservoir; the oil is stored in a wide piece of tubing that you can attach to a frame spar or other out of the way spot. Which I think is clever. But the applicator is a single nozzle, and the tubing that leads down to the chain is a larger diameter than I think is optimum. I therefor predict that the Cameleon oiler will leak more than average, because you'll have to feed more oil to get it distributed, and because oilers that use that wider tubing leak more while parked. Not a big deal, just something to be aware of.

Scottoiler eSystem (see image at top of entry)

This oiler has an electric pump, like the Pro-Oiler, Hawke Oiler, and Cameleon. But it has a novel control mechanism. It uses a triple-axis accelerometer to determine when the bike is moving, and it uses this info to meter the oil. If it all works as promised, it should be easier to install and still offer very precise metering of the oil. I know that Scottoiler uses the small tubing that I have decided is preferred, so it seems like there is nothing in this package to dislike. It also displays the ambient temperature, which is like getting two farkles in one. The Scottoiler eSystem intrigues me, and if I were buying another oiler today I might go for it, in spite of it being the most expensive oiler on the market.

  • Like 1

12 Comments


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  • Member Contributer
swas

Posted

Eli,

Thanks for the work and the insight to the chain oilers. I have followed from the beginning and found the info enlightening.

Mike

  • Member Contributer
YoshiHNS

Posted

Wow. I remember when you said you were starting this. And oddly enough, finally found my scott oiler I bought last season. Thanks for the info.

  • Member Contributer
vanion2

Posted

Great job on the reports. It never ceases to amaze me the level of quality people that can be found on this site. :fing02:

V4 Rosso

Posted

The triple-axis accelerometer should indeed make the eSystem a lot easier to install than other electronic oilers although I have my doubts about the accuray of determining distance/speed/accell. Also I think the controller that you would put somewhere on the dash is quite large. Also heard of one that returned his broken down eSystem as water had entered the controller but I suppose that is just a single incicdent and will be replaced under warranty.

Tightwad

Posted

nice finale to the comparison, i enjoyed reading them. My pro-oiler has been great, and hasn't leaked a drop, so I am pleased.

Roebling3

Posted

I don't typically throw wet blankets. Please forgive. I'm also way into simple is better. Plus I'm aged and would tilt the demografics of this illustrious list; should the number be known. With those caveats and outright pandering here is my general lack of chain maintenance, i.e. I semi-occassionally & every so often, spray WD-40 on my bike chains to retard rust. I do nothing else, other than adjustments. What works for me is O-ring/X-ring chains with their sealed at the factory lubricants. I typically get ~25k miles out of whatever chain and sprocket arrangement is on any given bike. For me this is good enough and fussing with the mess created by actual periodic chain maintenance is questionable.

How long does your chain last compared to the next rider? Our data will vary relative to riding style, motorcycle, wheel alignment and environment.

A question not asked, but perhaps pertinent to those believing a shaft drive is the way to go. "Low maintenance", many will say. Perhaps. But when something does go wrong, hang onto your wallet. Be close to a competent dealer. Pray that the parts are available.

R~ Ducking and running.

  • Member Contributer
elizilla

Posted

I don't typically throw wet blankets. Please forgive. I'm also way into simple is better. Plus I'm aged and would tilt the demografics of this illustrious list; should the number be known. With those caveats and outright pandering here is my general lack of chain maintenance, i.e. I semi-occassionally & every so often, spray WD-40 on my bike chains to retard rust. I do nothing else, other than adjustments. What works for me is O-ring/X-ring chains with their sealed at the factory lubricants. I typically get ~25k miles out of whatever chain and sprocket arrangement is on any given bike. For me this is good enough and fussing with the mess created by actual periodic chain maintenance is questionable.

How long does your chain last compared to the next rider? Our data will vary relative to riding style, motorcycle, wheel alignment and environment.

A question not asked, but perhaps pertinent to those believing a shaft drive is the way to go. "Low maintenance", many will say. Perhaps. But when something does go wrong, hang onto your wallet. Be close to a competent dealer. Pray that the parts are available.

R~ Ducking and running.

Yeah, I've heard this sort of thing a lot. After trying every regimen proposed by folks like yourself, replacing seven chains in six years, and after having to replace a chain in a motel parking lot 2000 miles from home in the middle of a cross country trip, I concluded that my mileage definitely varies. I believe I gave chains a very fair test, and they were not working out for me. The chain oilers were my last ditch effort to make my peace with chains and I think they work - I'll definitely use them again.

As for having a shaft drive fail, well, I weathered one of those a few years back. Swapping in the final drive from a parts bike took less than an hour and cost me nothing. That was the only shaft drive failure I ever had, and I don't think that one would have failed if the moron who owned the bike before me hadn't run it for 30,000 miles with no grease on the splines - I found crumbly rust and lots of wear in there the first time I changed the rear tire. I added grease and they went another 50K before they stripped. My other shaft drive Hondas went over 100K and were killed by other things (crashing, dropped valve, bottom end failure), leaving me with final drive parts ready and waiting when I finally needed them. It's nonsensical to compare a shaft drive failure, to a single chain and sprocket set. You have to compare it to dozens of chain and sprocket sets, because that's how often they each happen.

But if you're happy with your chain care regimen, more power to you! It all comes down to how much you ride and in what conditions, and what tradeoffs you are willing to make.

Roebling3

Posted

I don't typically throw wet blankets. Please forgive. I'm also way into simple is better. Plus I'm aged and would tilt the demografics of this illustrious list; should the number be known. With those caveats and outright pandering here is my general lack of chain maintenance, i.e. I semi-occassionally & every so often, spray WD-40 on my bike chains to retard rust. I do nothing else, other than adjustments. What works for me is O-ring/X-ring chains with their sealed at the factory lubricants. I typically get ~25k miles out of whatever chain and sprocket arrangement is on any given bike. For me this is good enough and fussing with the mess created by actual periodic chain maintenance is questionable.

How long does your chain last compared to the next rider? Our data will vary relative to riding style, motorcycle, wheel alignment and environment.

A question not asked, but perhaps pertinent to those believing a shaft drive is the way to go. "Low maintenance", many will say. Perhaps. But when something does go wrong, hang onto your wallet. Be close to a competent dealer. Pray that the parts are available.

R~ Ducking and running.

Yeah, I've heard this sort of thing a lot. After trying every regimen proposed by folks like yourself, replacing seven chains in six years, and after having to replace a chain in a motel parking lot 2000 miles from home in the middle of a cross country trip, I concluded that my mileage definitely varies. I believe I gave chains a very fair test, and they were not working out for me. The chain oilers were my last ditch effort to make my peace with chains and I think they work - I'll definitely use them again.

As for having a shaft drive fail, well, I weathered one of those a few years back. Swapping in the final drive from a parts bike took less than an hour and cost me nothing. That was the only shaft drive failure I ever had, and I don't think that one would have failed if the moron who owned the bike before me hadn't run it for 30,000 miles with no grease on the splines - I found crumbly rust and lots of wear in there the first time I changed the rear tire. I added grease and they went another 50K before they stripped. My other shaft drive Hondas went over 100K and were killed by other things (crashing, dropped valve, bottom end failure), leaving me with final drive parts ready and waiting when I finally needed them. It's nonsensical to compare a shaft drive failure, to a single chain and sprocket set. You have to compare it to dozens of chain and sprocket sets, because that's how often they each happen.

But if you're happy with your chain care regimen, more power to you! It all comes down to how much you ride and in what conditions, and what tradeoffs you are willing to make.

Roebling3

Posted

I have re-read my message, elizilla. I don't think I was proposing a regimen, but rather stating what has worked for me. I'm glad your experience with shaft drives has been so much better than mine. I still have 3 shaft drive bikes. None of them are the brand with which I had so much trouble. It was indeed fortunate for you to have a parts bike with a compatible, usable and free final drive. I doubt many are as lucky as you were. My comparison works for me, which was all I intended to say. It's based on 60 years of riding, more miles and bikes than I can count. R~

  • Member Contributer
elizilla

Posted

I have re-read my message, elizilla. I don't think I was proposing a regimen, but rather stating what has worked for me. I'm glad your experience with shaft drives has been so much better than mine. I still have 3 shaft drive bikes. None of them are the brand with which I had so much trouble. It was indeed fortunate for you to have a parts bike with a compatible, usable and free final drive. I doubt many are as lucky as you were. My comparison works for me, which was all I intended to say. It's based on 60 years of riding, more miles and bikes than I can count. R~

This chain oiler blog was an effort to provide some real information and real data, so people who are interested can find out about them. If you don't want a chain oiler, don't install one.

I'm not angry at you for challenging me, but I've had this exact conversation approximately eleventy-seven-thousand times. You can learn a lot from talking to older riders, but nothing they can tell you is the same as firsthand experience. I took the time to find out about chain oilers for myself, and found that while there are hurdles to overcome, they do work for their intended purpose, in my actual real life riding. Occasional WD40 does not.

As for the shaft drive, well, that's completely outside the scope of this blog, which is about chain oilers. If you want to argue about that, start a new thread. You won't convince me there either, but you can probably get more support for your position than I will for mine, since most VFRs have chains and this is a VFR forum after all. :)

Roebling3

Posted

I have re-read my message, elizilla. I don't think I was proposing a regimen, but rather stating what has worked for me. I'm glad your experience with shaft drives has been so much better than mine. I still have 3 shaft drive bikes. None of them are the brand with which I had so much trouble. It was indeed fortunate for you to have a parts bike with a compatible, usable and free final drive. I doubt many are as lucky as you were. My comparison works for me, which was all I intended to say. It's based on 60 years of riding, more miles and bikes than I can count. R~

This chain oiler blog was an effort to provide some real information and real data, so people who are interested can find out about them. If you don't want a chain oiler, don't install one.

I'm not angry at you for challenging me, but I've had this exact conversation approximately eleventy-seven-thousand times. You can learn a lot from talking to older riders, but nothing they can tell you is the same as firsthand experience. I took the time to find out about chain oilers for myself, and found that while there are hurdles to overcome, they do work for their intended purpose, in my actual real life riding. Occasional WD40 does not.

As for the shaft drive, well, that's completely outside the scope of this blog, which is about chain oilers. If you want to argue about that, start a new thread. You won't convince me there either, but you can probably get more support for your position than I will for mine, since most VFRs have chains and this is a VFR forum after all. :)

Roebling3

Posted

I regret that you took my experience as a personal afront, elizilla. It certainly wasn't my intension. I had no knowledge of the "eleventy seven thousand times" you have discussed this topic but this is, after all, a forum for that. Paraphrasing what I stated first off: It was MY experience. My apology for causing any stress for you. R~

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