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I picked up this 1992 RC36.1 last spring (2018) in Connecticut (USA). It was a really good price, but not exactly a cream puff so I’ve been trying to bring it up to a decent standard and as cheaply as possible. To do that, I've been poking around online and you all have been guiding me too, so thank you for that. By now I have a few insights and experiences of my own that might actually help somebody else. Time to get out of the shadows. The odometer was at just over 25,000 miles when I got the bike and I am at least the fourth owner. The bike's history is long lost along with a number of odds and ends, bits and pieces. I wonder if there is a way to trace it all back. The guy I got it from seemed honest and funny but he had some curious theories of shade tree mechanics so it's taking me a little while to learn to trust the ride. I'm still semi worried about the long term effects of some of his theories but so far, so good. The title showed that he'd bought the bike in 2012 at 23,122 miles. So we're talking 2000 miles in 6 years. I’ve ridden about 1200 miles in less than 4 months without major surprises. I've also encountered the usual gen3 issues. When I took it on, the bike had almost new tires and chain and battery, and the upgraded regulator/rectifier. The starter clutch is supposed to be new too. The engine oil was the color of honey. I needed a few things right away and, as you'll see, this is a work in progress. The cosmetics really, really need help. Really. Look closely at my photographs and you'll spot plenty of issues. I haven’t decided exactly how to proceed on those yet, but I’m considering options. You are welcome to make suggestions here and I might even follow some up. And I can tell you all my experiences so far. A few things done as soon as I got the bike home... Front Brake Switch I needed a front brake switch. These are $16 at Honda or $3 from China for a generic one on Ebay, or maybe it was Amazon. I’m trying out the $3 version. Sorry Honda. The one I got is pretty cheaply constructed with a thin plastic shell, but it does fit and work as advertised so far. I check it before every ride. If it doesn’t last, I know where to find the real one. Or I can get 4 more cheapos… Krator Mirrors I picked up the Krator replacement factory-look mirrors too, also from Ebay (...or Amazon...). They’re fine. The bike came with carbon look mirrors that were a mess. I know lots of you prefer newer styling and you get rid of the boots. I’m content with the original look. The Krator fittings are plastic, not metal, and the boots are kind of a fiddly fit on the proximal end. But you can tighten down the collar so that with a little patience you can get the boot to stay in place. These cost $22 for the pair. Honda OEM? Um, more than $22. Keys I needed proper keys. The bike came with a single cut key that looked like a generic car key made at the DIY store. It didn't even fit all that great. I had to get the key code from under the gas cap and there are services that’ll make you the right key from the code for about ten bucks. Once more to Ebay. Once more cheaper than the dealer. I don’t have anything against my local dealer. Not at all. I feel bad not supporting the guys more. But jeez louise, I just can't afford it. I wouldn’t even mind paying a little extra, especially if I could just walk in and out again with the parts I need. Unfortunately, not only is the dealer expensive, but most things have to be ordered from the warehouse anyway. So I still have to wait three or four days. I’m just sayin. So far I’ve had good results from all Ebay orders. I'm not thinking they're better than OEM. But some things are good enough. There's plenty more to add, but that's it for today. Stay tuned.

Hi, I've just done an oil & filter change on my 1999/2000 VFR800 FiX. The Haynes manual says it requires 2.9 litres of oil for a basic change an 3.1 litres if the filter is also changed (which I did). With the bike on the centre stand, i filled it so that the oil level was in directly between the lower and upper levels on the sight glass, which took almost exactly 3 litres and then I ran the engine for a couple of minutes at idle. The level then dropped, which I assume is when it had filed the new filter. I then shut the engine off and topped it up which required another 300ml of oil. However; I may have added slightly too much oil as it's now just on the upper level in the sight glass instead of between the two levels. Also I notice that when I restart the engine the level in the glass drops down blow the minimum line. Is this OK?

A couple of people have expressed some frustration over the 8th Gen oil change procedure, so I thought I would quickly make a rundown with pictures to help anyone who has questions in future. It took me roughly 30 minutes end-to-end the second time I did this. First, and foremost, you need the tools... Allen key (included in tool-kit) "Phillips" (actually JIS) screwdriver (included in tool-kit) 10mm socket 17mm socket Torque wrench Oil filter wrench (do *not* skip this - Honda P/N 07HAA-PJ70101 or 07AMA-MFJA100) ...as well as the consumables. 4qt Honda GN4 10w30 (3.3qt used) 1 Crush Washer (Honda P/N 94109-12000) 1 Oil Filter (Honda P/N 15410-MFJ-D01) Notes "screw-type" pins are removed by unscrewing them until the middle plastic part separates from the body of the pin visibly. Pull outward to remove. Installation is reverse of removal; press middle part in to secure. "pin-type" pins are removed by pressing the middle of the pin in, pull outward to remove. For installation, pull the middle plastic pin piece so it is poking out of the pin. Push the pin body into the hole and press the middle of the pin in to secure. All this makes sense the second you touch them. A US "Standard" model was used to document this procedure. The portion about the lower radiator bolt only seems to apply to AC and II AC models (America/Canada.) I am unsure if you need to do that portion on the ROTW models. It will be very apparent if so, when you go to remove the filter. 1. Remove left-lower-side fairing. 3 allen screws - front one is the 'smaller' one 2 "screw-type" plastic pins 1 "pin-type" plastic pin Pull reward to unhook from side fairing 2. Remove right-lower-side fairing. 2 allen screws - front one is the 'smaller' one 1 "screw-type" plastic pins 1 "pin-type" plastic pin Pull reward to unhook from side fairing 3. Remove radiator grill cover. 2 "pin-type" plastic pins 2 allen screws Pull top of grill forward to unseat from rubber retainers Pull upward and remove, may have to slightly manipulate left and ride side fairings 4. Remove 17mm oil drain bolt; drain oil. Trash the old crush washer. 5. Remove 10mm bolt securing lower part of the lower radiator (accessible via left-hand side.) 6. Loosen oil filter (using the oil filter wrench; the filter will be quite tight on your first oil change!) 7. Pull lower portion of lower radiator forward, and remove the oil filter through the left-hand side of the headers as shown. 8. Pour some oil in your new filter, and use your finger to lubricate the o-ring on the filter with engine oil. 9. Install oil filter reverse of the removal. Tighten oil filter to 19ft-lb. 10. Reinstall oil fill bolt with new crush washer. Tighten to 22ft-lb. 11. Fill the bike with 3.2qt of oil. Use the marks on the side of the bottle to roughly gauge the .2qt from the fourth bottle. 12. Start the bike for 3-5 minutes. Let stand for 2 minutes. 13. Have someone stand the bike upright, and ensure oil is between the lines in the sight glass. Add an additional .1qt if needed to bring near top fill line. 14. Ensure there are no leaks. 15. Install the lower radiator's lower 10mm bolt to secure 16. Install the radiator grill reverse of removal. Plastic pins in the bottom, allen bolts on top. 17. Reinstall right-lower-side fairing reverse of removal. Ensure the rear portion of the fairing hooks onto the bike. 18. Reinstall the left-lower-side fairing reverse of removal. Let me know if something was not clear or if anyone has any questions. A downloadable/printable PDF version can be found here: http://www.thtanner.com/files/2014-2015 Honda VFR800F Oil Change Guide.pdf

Took the fairing off my bike to give it an oil change. I couldn't get the drain bolt off, so I started to take off the oil pan. There is some kind of two metal posts coming down. So I tried to loosen the two bolts from the top of the exhaust pipe and that gave me no clearance. So I gave up. I have the bottom of the oil pan resting on the exhaust pipes. I think that with the bolt stripped, and I'll have to order a new oil pan, but I have to remove the oil pan before I can get the new one in there. WHAT DO I DO? The goal is not to have to trailer it to take to a shop. I hate that "tail between the legs". Any help is greatly appreciated. -Nick

I hate to bring this up, but my insurance expires soon ... The Honda storage instructions (from Honda.ca) tell you to change the oil and filter before storage. That makes sense. Used oil has combustion by-products in it, metal, and apparently becomes acidic/corrosive. Changing the filter in the fall means you don't have to do it in the spring. However, Honda says to change the oil again in the spring--with zero miles on it. Is Honda in league with Big Oil™? Is it out to ruin the environment by wasting perfectly good oil? (From Page 4 of the linked PDF): "Even though you changed the oil before storage, change it again if the vehicle has been stored for more than four months; small amounts of oil left in the engine from previous oil changes can create corrosive byproducts during storage." Is the old oil so "corrosive" that less than quart of it (.7 qt, according to the owner's manual) left in the engine after an oil and filter change will harm the engine? I usually change the oil to a good quality MC-specific brand (no, I don't want to start an oil thread .... ) in the fall, fire it up in the spring and run that for the season. I don't believe in briefly starting the bike during the winter, etc., so my fall oil is brand new--except for mixing with the remnants of the previous oil. Some advocate buying cheap automotive oil and using that as "storage" oil, dumping that in the spring and replacing with better quality oil, but I've always worried about introducing friction modifiers, etc. What do you do? Inquiring minds want to know ...

Yet another thread on how to change the oil on your 6th gen. remove left side fairing. get her ready to bleed. remove oil filler cap. get ready to remove plug 17mm socket. let her bleed removing filter is a pain. use strap wrench or the right oil filter cap. put rags on the pipes below cause it will drip a lot. messy messy Cool K&N filter. it already comes with a 17mm top. no need for a filter wrench cap to get it tight. Pour the oil about 3 quarters will do. turn it on. check for leaks. have a drink. All Done