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Anyone else ever have a leak at the top of the fork? Looks like it could be one of two o rings leaking, correct? Found the outer nut was not properly torqued, retorqued it, but still seems to be weeping.

Just had my first ride with the new Jamie Daugherty setup... I bought his CBR600F4 w/mount for the rear, and the fully adjustable front cartridge kit for the forks. I did not want to learn fork internals, so I shipped him my OEM units for him to install the cartridge kit in (plug and play for me). I am very satisfied with the pricing, service, and shipping - I would absolutely recommend his work to anyone. Install notes: FRONT: Get Jamie to install the cartridge kit in your forks, drink beer. Bolt forks back into place - use your service manual! I raised my forks 10mm in the triples REAR: You WILL need to take off the exhaust and undertail tray. Get over it. I didn't want to, and I ended up with a scratched up shock and then had to remove that stuff anyway. Leave the top mount loose so you can angle it as you push the shock into position, then torque mount bolt once its standing in its new home. I trimmed the undertail tray front left corner ahead of the clip, to allow the remote reservoir hose to sit comfortably. I drilled 3 holes through the battery tray to zip-tie the remote reservoir. Works great 1-up, 2-up it is slightly rubbing so I will continue to tweak. Ride report: Wow! It seems that everyone who has upgraded their suspension says it is the best money you can spend - but having only ridden my VFR and Ninja 500, I don't have the experience to know what a good suspension feels like. Now I understand - the ride is slightly more stiff, but you can feel the suspension working to absorb all imperfections on the road and keep the bike planted, and going into corners you have 100% confidence and control. VERY happy so far, it truly feels like a new bike, and more importantly it feels like how the bike should have come from the factory. Update: This install worked fine for 1-up, but for 2-up riding the remote reservoir was juuuust slightly contacting the brake line/chainguard bracket. It probably wasn't a big deal, but a brake line isn't something I want to play around with. I decided to tear down the rear again, take out the undertail tray, and trim the area above where the res was currently mounted so it could sit up higher. If you look closely at the right side of the bracket, you can just see where the res was contacting. Tore down the rear: Undertail tray with the initial cut outline: (I did the whole cut with a Dremel and then cleaned up with a utility knife) Cutting has begun: Cutting complete: Reinstalled and mounted: Removed the front zip tie for a cleaner look, and sealed the strap hole with RTV Complete! Happy to have the install fully completed to my satisfaction - and the bike feels better than ever!

2004 ABS, 40K. All stock, suspension never serviced. Ordered a CBR600 shock from DMs and also want to upgrade the front. Going to order Racetech front springs - I'm 170 no gear and ride aggressive street (shitty streets of Atlanta). In a perfect world I'd get .925 rate but they only offer .90 or .95. Should I go with the stiffer .95s and run 5 weight Maxxima oil? Will probably try raising the rear a little as well. Also this is my first time servicing the front...can someone confirm I have the parts needed and right amounts in my Bike Bandit cart - I've attached pic. Thanks to the instructions on this site I yanked my snorkel, PAIR crap and did the flapper mod today. Sounds beefier. Do I need to use resistors in the 02 sensors now that I've done that or does it not matter? Down the line I'm planning on getting a PCV w/ autotune so from what I've read I'll need to get catless headers from a 98/99 right? And then of course some slip ons. Also going to switch the rear sprocket to a 45. Also attached an interesting pic - one of my low beams was out so I went to replace it and the socket connector looked like this... Thanks for the help in advance-

So, how long is the spacer sitting on top of the stock spring on a 5th gen? Mine is a 2000 model if that matters. I did cut mine when I did put the F3 interials in, but cant recall what the length was before?

So I am no Rossi, but I do ride at a pretty good pace through the turns. I feel that I push pretty hard while still being with in reason. Anyways, going over my bike the other day and I am looking at my tires. My rear shows that I have used it all the way to the last mm of the edge to the sidewall. But looking at the front shows that I have plenty left, more like a centimeter left. So to cut to the chase, I am wondering if I need to adjust something. I have the rear at the standard height and the front lowered about a half of an inch. I wonder if maybe I should raise the rear some or increase the tire pressure in the rear etc... I had both the front and rear at 32 psi last time I checked. One thing that I have noticed after dropping a lot of weight off of the bike is the rear feels pretty harsh. I weigh only about 165 fully geared and I have pulled a lot of weight off of the bike. I know a lot of people say that the bike is under sprung from the factory, but I feel at this point that my front spring rate is about right and my rear spring rate might be a little high. My front preload is one line out from full stiff and has fresh honda pro oils in it per you guys advice. My rear is at full soft and I am not really sure about the rebound, I cant seem to find a good spot. I think I may just need a new shock, as I am sure that they get cooked with there location to the rear exhaust primaries... My bike is a 2007 with 46,000 miles. Hoping to hear back.

Where to start starting with the chain All my parts arrived one by one, the chain and sprocket set first, then the brake pads, fork oil, fork seals, and various other things. I decided to replace the cradle on my Zumo and with it install a bmw style plug in the head tube from Powerlet. They make a vfr kit so I bought it, using the existing molex setup I had before I just solidered the molex wires to the kit and then taped it all up good. I figure I need a disconnect if I want to use the new head stand I bought, I will need to move the wires out to use it. I took a look at my brakes and boy they look good up front, I decided to keep them on since the new ones are not much thicker. I was under the impression that my brakes were in bad shape when I bought the parts, not the case. So I set about removing the front wheel and taking out the forks. Fork service has become easy for me, lots of practice with the dirt bike and my vfr, buddies bikes too I have done it a number of times. My fork oil was dark and dirty as it can get. I removed all the parts and cleaned it up best as I could and then replaced the bushing and slider with new parts, new seals and topped it up with new fork oil. I thought perhaps my forks were a little harsh so I checked the spec with racetech and sure enough I had too much oil in there, I must have used stock oil hieght - I used 120 mm for the gold valve/racetech setup I have. Should be a bit less harsh on the bumps with a larger air pocket. It took me an hour to finish both forks off and anther half an hour reinstalling the front end and torquing it to spec. Country music blasting in the garage cause I cant stand Prarie Home Companion - sombody please tell that guy Garrison Keeler that he cant sing for squat, please stop! Sometimes its funny the skits but I dont agree with the guys point of view - So I changed the station. I never listen to Country music let alone a nationally syndicated program from Nashville but for most the night it was kind of fun easy listening, the longer the night the twangier it got. I got the forks done and decided to make a how-to-video (not yet edited) on chain and sproket replacement. I did not think I had time for the fork service, to stop and go over every step and deal with the camera so I skipped that. Changing sprokets is a messy job. On into the 3am region (I work nights so its old hat for me) I was done by 5am. The garage was a disaster area and grease and grime everywhere. Sounds like an opportunity to change the radiator fluid, I sort of lost my fan switch this summer and so I was boiling off on a trip to New Mexico, I used alot of water to replace the boiled off stuff, I fixed the fan switch but by then I had spit out a good portion of my coolant onto the road. A stop at the grocery store in some small town and a bottle of distilled water topped me back up. Its been super cold lately and so I started it up to see - what if I got too much water in there and not enough antifreeze? I wasnt about to chance it for the rest of the winter, the worst is yet to come! So I changed the antifreeze. I did a great job on it tightended the plug so much that it got easier as I went, so easy in fact that it came right off! Snapped - damn it! I did not have the correct size and my easy out was not getting the broken part out. Good thing I had a bucket handy I just drained off all the coolant, a sort of half ass flush job all over the garage floor. I did manage to get most of it into the bucket. I took the cover off and drilled out the hole and then tapped it with a larger plug, works doesnt leak and it did not snap off this time! ' Much more work to go, need to remove the shock and get it serviced, my old Ohlins has 70k on it now! wow time flies. My plastics are in bad bad shape and my tank is too. In think I need to replace them, I cant paint for shit so I wont even try that! Unless anybody is a painter wizz on the forum? I happen to like red! I could put some VFRD graphics on it! That would be cool eh? Removing the speed sensor Removing the clutch slave cylinder