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First off I’m completely new here so I hope I’m going about this correctly and posting in the right spot. Ok so about 2 weeks ago I went and hit the triple nickel in Ohio (state rt 555) and on my way back I came out of the store and my fuel pump wouldn’t prime which has happened in the past but not for years after repairing the burnt fuse connection so I wiggled some wires and said a few prayers and got her to prime again but then it still didn’t want to start. Had to feed it some throttle to get it to do anything and still all it wanted to do was only barely stay running on 1 cylinder and I had to hold about half throttle just to do that. After letting it sit for another 10-15 minutes or so I went back out to try it again and voila magically it started right up and ran perfect for the 200 miles i had to ride to get home. Turned the bike off and restarted it with absolutely no trouble probably 5 or 6 times on the way home but now it hasn’t ran since, just wants to only run on one cylinder now and only with lots of throttle input to get it to do that. Smells kinda flooded like that raw fuel smell afterwards. Pretty sure All my grounds are good, I just went thru the ones under the tank and the harness recall has been done. Switched ECU’s also with no luck…. Any ideas? Seems like it almost has to be wiring related. ANY info/help will be GREATLY appreciated!

Question for the group, I'm going to wire up heated grips and a phone mount with a built in charger and I want the power to turn on and off with the key. somewhere someone talked about installing the positive directly to the battery and the negative to the accessories hookup on the left side of the bike under the fairing, I'm hoping someone better at electrical can point out the pros and cons and if there's a better way to hookup my electrical accessories. Thanks in advance and here's a picture of my VFR1200F just because

My buddy's bike got into an accident and we need to replace the main harness. I was wondering can I buy a 06 main harness on put it on? I know there are ECM differences after 05 so that is why I am asking. ABS model

Hi VFRees, I will soon come in to possession of a 2008 VFR. I've been reading through a lot of the threads on here about the electrical issues. Can anybody clarify whether the models after the 2002-2005 recall (2006-2009) still require a VFRness to achieve a more reliable electrical system? If not, are there any other recommended mods to the electrical system for the 2008? I plan to install a fuse block for an accessory circuit including a volt meter.

Hello, I'm Andy from Warwickshire in the UK. In August I bought this 1990 VFR750 FL project, which was advertised locally on eBay. It was clearly an imported bike, with the speedometer in kilometres. A previous owner had started a cafe racer conversion, hacked the front wiring about then given up. I had a look at it, talked to the owner and it all seemed genuine so I put in a fairly low bid, not expecting to win. My idea was to put it on the road as cheaply as possible to see if I like it, then decide whether to sell or keep and improve it. The seller had started sanding down the wheels and rear panels, bought it that lovely stainless steel radiator, a new fuel pump, air filter and various other bits which must have cost more than I paid him for it. He told me he had seen it running when he bought it, but it needed a new starter relay. To my surprise, my bid won. I found that my pre-purchase checks had failed to spot the subtle damage to the fork stantions (looks like they have been hit with a hammer just above the dust covers), so I've bought some good replacement forks, the first un-planned expense. The starter relay was OK but the starter motor needed a new carbon brush and insulators. The wiring loom was such a mess that I fitted a second-hand replacement. The right-hand bar switch wiring had for some reason been cut and re-joined with crimped-on bullet connectors, all of which pulled off again. The fuel tank was rusty inside, but this was easily cured with 20% phosphoric acid left in for an hour. David Silver helped with finding an equivalent replacement for the fuel tap 'O' ring. The next problem was a leak from the fuel tap itself, repaired using a kit from NRP Carbs. With a new battery and a generous squirt of carb cleaner the engine now started and idled nicely, but the carbs leaked fuel. I'm hoping that now they've had fuel in again the seals will swell up and stop leaking, but I'm leaving that problem until the weather improves and I can leave it outside for any spilled fuel to evapourate. I'm currently working on finishing the wiring and mounting the instruments and a round headlight using a cut-down front fairing bracket. Progress will be leisurely! I've got two technical questions, and no doubt there will be more. I would be grateful for any help: Amongst the bits missing are the screws needed to fix and connect the fuel and temp gauges in the instruments. Does anyone know what length and size these need to be? The holes in the back of the gauges are about 3mm diameter. Another thing that my pre-purchase checks missed is that the engine is an RC35, meaning the bike is a Japanese home-market model. It does have 6 gears and if it's a bit down on top-end power I'm not bothered, but it might make re-sale a problem. One difference from the UK version is an extra orange/blue wire running from the CDU up to an original-looking bullet connector at the front end. This is missing from the replacement loom. Does anyone know what this wire would have been connected to? There is no unidentified terminal in the instrument panel.

Basically the title. I am working on wiring up a replacement fan on my VFR800 and I wanted to keep it as stock as possible so that I could avoid future headaches. I am looking for the female spade connector online and cannot find one. Unfortunately, I do not have my bike nearby (its at my parents home). I want to be able to send the connector there so that I can drive home, wire it up, and ride back without having to make 2 or 3 trips. So if anyone knows the size or where I can get a similar pin, I would greatly appreciate their help. Attached are the pictures of the connectors in question. One picture contains the unit that holds the connectors and the other is a picture of the connectors themselves. If anyone knows the size of them, I would also appreciate that information (then I could start narrowing down what I'm looking for). I measured the sizes but I lost the sheet that had that information on it when I moved.

I have undertook the task of rebuilding and modifying an '84 VF500F. I have a wiring question. What does the yellow wire that connects to the instrument cluster do?. I have figured out every other wire on the bike, I am adding an LCD display, HiD Headlight Assembly, and LED blinkers all around. Every wire is labeled and ready for soldering. Except the yellow wire. According to the diagram it connects to one of the ignition coils and one of the spark units. On the other side of the wire though, it disappears off the diagram past a pin connector. Following the wire myself I can see it go into the body of the gauge cluster, but I wont know what it connects to until I take it apart. If anybody has a clue what it is supposed to connect to, please let me know. One sneaky suspicion that may be of use, is the fact that the bike wont start with it unplugged ( I think [many things and do-dads were unplugged] ). This is a link to the diagram http://imgur.com/0zhzloN I think something suspicious is afoot, maybe we should [redacted] into this more. [redacted] are keeping something from us.

Hey all, I recently installed new mirrors on my 98 VFR800, the mirrors have turn signals attached so I decided to hook those up. After wiring them to the indicator wires and cutting off the old harness, my gauge cluster no longer works--Speedometer, tachometer, odometer, headlights, taillights. However, my clock still works and the blinkers/blinker indicators on the cluster work. I can't for the life of me figure out what is going on. The fuses are all fine* Does anyone have any thoughts? I also tried rewiring it to the old harness and the problem still persists.

Hi VFR folks, I've been away for a couple of years... got pretty wrapped up in ZX14's and my Ducati 748. So about 2 years ago I was riding the VFR to work and my lights and instruments went out while I was on the highway. The bike still ran fine, so I made it to work and home ok. I pulled it onto the workstand and took some panels off and started poking around... decided it would be a good idea to rewire my accessories while fixing this issue, so I went to wiremybike.com and ordered a VFRness, an accessory fuse panel, and the Blue Connector Quick Fix. This would be a better way to handle my heated grips, airhorn, LED lights, power commander, etc. So the parts arrived, then life happened. Other projects took priority, the ZX14 and the 748 were keeping me busy, and the VFR just sat there... for two years. My son came home on leave from the Air Force and gave me a hard time about the abandoned VFR, so I started working on it last night. I installed the wiremybike items, new battery, and fresh gas. Bike fired right up and runs smooth. My electrical problem was still there though, so tonight I started troubleshooting. I downloaded the color schematic and found the fusebox in the front right fairing. The "E" 10a fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and turned the key to ON and the new fuse immediately blew. Something was shorted to ground for it to blow that fast. The schematic showed the circuit is the Brown wire with Blue stripe, so put my meter leads on that wire and ground and read 0.00 ohms... which is a short. I started on the left side of the schematic and worked my way to the right. I disconnected each item powered by the circuit and checked to see if the short went away. When I disconnected one of the rear light bulbs, my short went away. I couldn't believe it... that was the last thing I expected. Bulbs usually 'open' not 'short' when they fail. I compared the two bulbs, the bad one failed in a way I've never seen before. The filament was gone (normal), but one of the metal posts that hold the filament melted and shorted to the other post. Strange. So I let my VFR sit for two years because I had a bad lightbulb :) Tomorrow night I'll clean and oil the K&N, get it all put back together with a new bulb, and give her a bath. Saturday will be oil change, and a nice test ride. Sunday I'm riding her from PA to Wisconsin... so wish me luck.

hello! im new here and actually new to posting on forms completely for that matter! i search and read thru them allot. and have gotten some good info from here so i figured i would give it a shot and see if i can get some extra direction or info! i bought a 1997 vfr 750 from a friend that owns a local bike shop. it was dropped off a U-Haul truck while trying to load it and bent the tail pretty bad so it was a perfect start for what i wanted to do, i already planned on building a custom tail. im a welder fabricator for work and went to technical collage for motorcycle technology and have owned many bikes and still own all types of bike so im not new to any of this but can always use advice from people who have more knowledge on a specific bike. so some info on the bike... when i got it home first thing i did was charge the battery fresh fuel and fired it up ran great! good start, then i striped it of all of its outdated ugly plastics! haha went over the whole bike completely i mean EVERYTHING! found the forks are bent son they came off one of the clipons was cracked so i ordered risers and dirtbike bars and went that rout because that was the plan anyways. did the pair blockoff and got fid of all of that crap. and started on the tail. i started with a ducati monster seat. had to get a little creative on bending the square tubing for the tail ;) but it came out great. i then made the undertail skin and box. im now in the middle of thinning out wiring and figuring all of that out. taht brings me here. right now im planning the dash. i wanna do a minimalistic dash few led lighsts thats it. dont think im going to do any gauges. all i want is a low fuel light signal light high beam light side stand maybe... i cant figure out the low fuel light.. so this is where im stuck. i have SOOOOO many more pictures i will probably add in the morning just wanted to start it up and see if i get any responses. THANKS!!!!

Just bought my 1998 VFR, cables everywhere from a defunct alarm system so decided to remove it, however now every time front or rear brake applied the fuse blows. There is two cables cut into the main loom by the battery which go to a relay, one cable out of the relay cut into the main loom for rear back pedal light operation. One cable out of the relay to the alarm. If I disconnect the relay the bike won't start. Took everything off including the two cables exiting the relay, and thought all good. Indicators off the same fuse work ok which were connected to the alarm, horn off same fuse also works. Put the cable back to the rear brake loom but remains the same. Any ideas? Thanks

hello! im new here and actually new to posting on forms completely for that matter! i search and read thru them allot. and have gotten some good info from here so i figured i would give it a shot and see if i can get some extra direction or info! i bought a 1997 vfr 750 from a friend that owns a local bike shop. it was dropped off a U-Haul truck while trying to load it and bent the tail pretty bad so it was a perfect start for what i wanted to do, i already planned on building a custom tail. im a welder fabricator for work and went to technical collage for motorcycle technology and have owned many bikes and still own all types of bike so im not new to any of this but can always use advice from people who have more knowledge on a specific bike. so some info on the bike... when i got it home first thing i did was charge the battery fresh fuel and fired it up ran great! good start, then i striped it of all of its outdated ugly plastics! haha went over the whole bike completely i mean EVERYTHING! found the forks are bent son they came off one of the clipons was cracked so i ordered risers and dirtbike bars and went that rout because that was the plan anyways. did the pair blockoff and got fid of all of that crap. and started on the tail. i started with a ducati monster seat. had to get a little creative on bending the square tubing for the tail ;) but it came out great. i then made the undertail skin and box. im now in the middle of thinning out wiring and figuring all of that out. taht brings me here. right now im planning the dash. i wanna do a minimalistic dash few led lighsts thats it. dont think im going to do any gauges. all i want is a low fuel light signal light high beam light side stand maybe... i cant figure out the low fuel light.. so this is where im stuck. i have SOOOOO many more pictures i will probably add in the morning just wanted to start it up and see if i get any responses. THANKS!!!!

So I bought myself some cheap aftermarket headlights.. These to be specific. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-125W-Motorcycle-CREE-U5-LED-Driving-Headlight-Fog-Lamp-Spot-Light-For-BMW/171713942876 I have not yet done the wiring, but I want to make sure that this will work. The headlights have a red and a black wire. I want to know how I should wire these things up to retain my high and low feature without frying any wiring or botching this.

Hi folks - While I understand the basics of wiring on the bike, I am not confident enough to pick through a wiring schematic to answer my question... so I pose it to you! 2002 VFR800 Canadian bike My start button is half broken off, so I've been lazily watching eBAY for a replacement (just for looks, it functions fine). I came across a pair of both the start/kill controls, and the signal/headlight controls in the UK. No mention of exactly what model year/country these controls off of, but the seller did note he bought them to replace the faded controls on his '03. The start side looks identical (does NOT have the 4-way flasher button like some of the models seem to, mine doesn't), BUT on the turn signal control side, it does have the PASSING toggle switch to flick the headlights. My bike does NOT have this from stock... will this still plug right into my stock connectors and function? Input greatly appreciated!

Hi all! I just acquired a 2004 VFR800 (non ABS) with 29,000 miles on it. All was well for about 200 miles, and then it died. The person riding in front of me said that the headlights started getting dimmer and dimmer and then went out just shortly before I lost power. I got the bike home (fortunately only ~70 miles from home), and started diagnosing. The PO was not sure whether the RR or stator has ever been replaced. The battery was replaced in the past year or two with a Battery Tender Lithium Ion battery. The battery was dead, so I charged that. When I started testing, it was sitting at 13.14V. Checked again this morning, and it's sitting at 13.13V so the battery seems to be OK. I tested everything and concluded that I had zero charging going on but it seems like the stator is OK(?). In the process of testing, I found that the connections between the stator and RR had overheated and were likely non-conductive. The char looks recent so I suspect they melted/charred during my ride. I rewired the connectors and tested again. Results: First test (before rewiring, with low beams on): IGN Bike Measured Reading OFF OFF BAT - + 13.14V ON OFF BAT - + 12.78V ON IDLE BAT - + 13.00V (rising) ON 2500RPM BAT - + 12.50V (falling) ON 5000RPM BAT - + 12.50V (falling) Stator tests: Impedance between phases: AB ~1ohm, AC ~1ohm, BC ~.9ohm Impedance to ground: A->G infinte, B->G infinite, C->G infinite AC Voltage: IDLE AB 24.2 AC 24.5 BC 23.9 5K AB 64.5 AC 64.5 BC 65 After replacing yellow stator connections (low beams on): ON IDLE BAT - + 13.20V (rising) ON 2500RPM BAT - + 13.45V (rising) ON 5000RPM BAT - + 13.58V (rising) A few notes: For the impedance tests, the ohmmeter that I am using is not close to instantaneous. When I put the leads directly against one another it rapidly declines from 200ohm to 5 then 3 then 2 then 1.5 then 1.4 then 1.3 and so on. With each downward tick it takes longer (from 200-1.5 takes a second or two, then it takes a few seconds from 1.5 to 1.0, and then approximately ten seconds per 0.1 tick beyond that. I suspect that the stator impedances are lower than 1.0 or 0.9, but I either need a new meter or to be dramatically more patient waiting for it to settle. For the "rising" and "falling" statements, once the voltmeter settled on a voltage (which is fairly instantaneous), I am stating that the voltage is slowly ticking upward or downward. Over the course of 30 seconds at a particular RPM, I would se a rise or fall of approximately 0.15-0.50 volts. There are no electrical accessories on the bike. After fixing the stator->RR connections, when I ran the 5k RPM voltage test I saw the 30A fuse wire start smoking and it was quite hot to the touch. All of that leads me to some questions: Is there anything about a lithium ion battery that would result in me not seeing a higher voltage across the terminals? I've never dealt with a lithium ion battery in a car/bike before so want to make sure that I should expect the same testing behavior as I would a conventional battery. At this point I am planning to rewire the bike (mirroring a VFRness) or order a VFRness and install that. Also, following my tests, I'm going to rewire my crimp connectors (stator<-->RR) with soldered connections. Should I go ahead and order a RR at this point too or do my results seem potentially within the realm of "normal" for overheated/deteriorated wiring? Should I get the wiring squared away, test again, and then decide whether to acquire an RR? In general are the failures frequent enough that I should just keep a spare RR on hand (or on the bike when I'm on trips)? Is there an expected lifespan for a Honda OEM RR? Does 29k miles make it "due" for replacement? Am I way off base on anything I've said that I need to be corrected on? Thank you in advance!

I just bought a 92 VFR750 in great condition. I'd love for it to continue running without a hitch. After skimming through the forums here, it looks as though charging and electrical problems are common. I have read a number of things about a vfrness, changing the r/r, checking wiring frequently, etc. and I'd like to know a little more about all this. I am not very electrically inclined, so I'm not interested in doing anything very advanced, but I'd like to do whatever I need to to ensure I don't end up stuck on the side of the road, so here are my questions: 1) what exactly is the electrical problem that is common with VFRs? 2) what can be done to resolve this? 3) should I buy and install a new r/r? is there an updated one for my bike? 4) should I buy and install a vfrness? 5) do I need to keep checking my wires to see if they are melted? If yes, how often should I be checking? Thanks for the advice.

File Name: 5th Gen Super High Resolution Wiring Diagrams File Submitter: MadScientist File Submitted: 26 Feb 2015 File Category: Owners Manuals and other Ever try tracing a wire on the black and white diagram and lose your place causing you to start over again? Or maybe colors make the miserable job of tracing an electrical fault more fun? If you hate colors or usefulness, this is not for you. Some files are very large and may require significant amounts of RAM/computing power to view. IDK how much power is not enough, all my rigs are pretty new. Zip file contains 3 images: VFR Wiring Layers hires.png - very high resolution, colorized version of the wiring diagram from the 5th gen service manual. The filename lies, there are no layers in this file. VFR Wiring Layers hires.xcf - very high resolution, colorized.... Same as above, except has the wiring in "layers" so that you can hide parts of colorized wiring overlay that you are not interested in. Can open with GIMP (google it, the software is free for Linux or Windows, but may be difficult for casual users), IDK if Paint.net can handle layers either. VFR Wiring Layers hires.psd - same as above, photoshop format. Download the newest version if you want a print-ready file. The printable file doesn't have the layer functionality of the other files, but is tweaked and sized for 11x17 reproduction. If you don't intend to have the file printed, the 1.5 version has all the same functionality of the 1.51 version. Click here to download this file

Hi all, been a while since I've posted on here. Unfortunately I come with issues, not pretty pictures... (I'll post those shortly) So, after my RR started to melt and the bike started doing weird things at start up and on the road, I decided to upgrade the RR to a mosfet style RR and to do so I purchased the VFRness and the RR from wiremybike.com. so after a bit of work installing the new harness and RR, the bike started running and starting great. Now I have a different problem.... OVERHEATING! so during a few city rides in Toronto, Canada - both totaling about 45 minutes or so, and in very cool conditions (15-20C) the bikes temp gauge had gone up to the red mark, both times! I've never seen the bike run this hot. my fan comes on but seems like its on very late... Tightwad, who supplied the RR and the VFRness, has been quite helpful, but now we're both stumped. has anyone experienced anything like this? did I inadvertently fry something during install? crossing wires or something... what could have failed to give me this type of problem? what can I do to test? is there a coolant pump on the bike? maybe that has failed? thermostat coil somehow got screwed up and now turns on the fan way too late? so, I'm hoping that anyone has some suggestions for trouble shooting, so that I can start with.. then hopefully we can get to the bottom of this.. thank you all!! ps. as I promised, pictures attached... cheers!

I have a problem with my 5th gen, about 6-7 min after i start running the bike i get a FI light.... checked the light, blinked 8 times. Ok, so its a TP problem. I can tell from when trying to go on it hard from 7k+ it just walls flat on its face. So I checked the TP sensor and its good, now i just have to find the sub-harness to test the wiring.... and there is my problem.... where is that 10p grey connector that goes from the injectors, TP, air control valve, and IAT?

bought a 96 basket case for cheap and am in the process of getting it back on the road. have the headlight plugged in to the wiring harness along with everything else, or so i thought. headlight will not come on. i have one more four slot plug that is not plugged in to anything. i jumped the black with red tracer to white with black tracer in this connector and the headlight came on. what is this four slot plug and where does it plug into?it's a female connector from the main harness under the tank. it is with the main mass of connectors that go to the switch housings on the bars. all those are plugged into their correct connectors and the start/run stop work fine, as does the horn and turn signals. just no headlight. the wires are black with red trace, white with black trace, white and green. i throw myself at the wiring guru's feet! HALP!

Does anyone know where to get that plastic tubing / sheath material that Powerlet uses to cover the wiring in their kits? It's thin and flexible, but tough enough to protect wiring from heat and friction. It seems to come in different diameters for single and multiple wires.

Is there any such thing as a wiring harness reference chart? i.e. Will an 02-03 6 gen wiring harness fit on a 2000 5 gen bike? In other words , just because the parts numbers might not match up do any of the wiring harnesses plug and play on different bikes? Anyone know? Thanks.

So I am finally putting my bike back together but I need a new axle bolt for the front I rounded it off because all I had was sae sockets and it was already a mess. Anyone have a 92 vfr 750 that can take wiring harness pictures??