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2003 vtec, installed a FH020AA regulator and while letting it idle so I could ensure it was charging the fuel pump quit, I left it alone for awhile and came back a few hours later and the fuel pump worked again but only for a minute or two, it doesn’t sound weak when it did turn on but I check the plug at the pump and it’s reading 11-12v when i turn the key on, is this a faulty pump?

VFR Braintrust...2006 w/~26k miles. I rode 830 highway miles yesterday and just as I turned on to my street the engine abruptly shut down, I was able to roll it into the garage and left it for the night. It started up fine the morning and again this afternoon but I didn't take it out for a ride. At shut down last night, I had 1/2+ tank of gas, full electrical (dash, lights, starter), although had ear plugs in and couldn't hear the fuel pump engage. The engine turned over fine but would just not start. I always use name brand quality gasoline, although a few days prior to this last drive I did have to fill w/10% Ethanol at a Shell station in Utah. I have more trips planned and of course would like to have confidence in the bikes performance when miles from home. Could this be a fuel filter, fuel pump issue or an electrical gremlin...? Where should I start to analyze and eliminate? Thanks in advance for your input or link to existing discussion, it's very much appreciated.

Hello, Brand new to forum. My 95 VFR has been sitting for seven years, and I'm trying to get her running again. Parked after having problems after I put in fuel with ethanol. Compression good, spark good. I'm testing various components, starting with the fuel pump. The battery is disconnected and I jumped the terminals on the connector that leads to the fuel pump with a 12V source (known to be good). No noise from the fuel pump. I assume that I should be getting some noise from the pump when I jump it. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks, Bill Schroeder (1970 Suzuki T125II Stinger, 1973 Yamaha RD350, 1974 Yamaha RD350, (2) 1976 Yamaha RD400, 1995 Honda VFR 750F)

Hi Guys, I don't know if I have to go somewhere else to say HI, as I'm new to this forum. I have problems with my VFR since I bought it (used) 3 years ago (or four, who would count ;p). But most currently problem is about not working fuel pump (no starting noise after turn on ignition) and vfr doesn't start. Where should I start working on that problem? I had enough of mechanics as they take money and still there are problems with my bike on and on... Here photo of mine bike taken by me:

This is going to be a very long story, but it took me a year. You'll get through it much quicker! I think I'm finally at the end of a year long search for the answer to my intermittent 5th Gen issue of it randomly cutting out while riding. I'll start at the beginning and try to remember everything and the order in which it occurred. First off, 2017 was very tough on my personally and financially much of it spent working 7 days a week for 3/4 of what I was earning previously, and some early parts of the year I was making zero to less than half. Anyway, what that means in the context of the VFR was little to no recreational riding or time or money to diagnose and repair the issue. So I was riding home from work one afternoon. I was on the highway in the left lane, about to pass slower traffic ahead. As I signaled and accelerated, then changed lanes, I hit a moderately severe bump as the pavement transitioned to a bridge. The engine immediately cut off, in gear on the throttle. Dash looked normal, Fi and oil lights on as if key on and stop switch in off position. I pulled in the clutch and tried the starter multiple times as I coasted along to no avail, along with letting the clutch out in gear to let the wheel turn it over. I think I eventually coasted down an off ramp and stopped. I cycled the key and then tried it and that worked. When I got home I, of course, went straight to Stator - R/R - Battery tests. Many years ago I converted to the R1 FH012 Reg/Rec with output routed to the battery + through a 30a fuse and the ground directly to the frame. Later I installed a Custom Rewind rewound stator. I had several years of trouble free charging, so following a severe crash in 2014 and rebuild over the following many months, I never bothered refitting my voltmeter. I had to replace virtually everything in the nose and side fairings and didn't want to cut my new to me, freshly custom painted fairing. Luckily I found a nekkid bike enthusiast with nearly everything from the front of the bike for sale, and I grabbed it up! Headlight was smashed, the gauges looked a little broken but when I got them out of the fairing stay they were flexible due to all the breaks and cracks. I swapped out the LCD to keep my original miles (I'm at 103k now!). The fairing stay was toast and actually snapped one of the mounting tabs off the frame neck! Had to pull the frame off and have it welded back on. Everything plastic forward of the seat was replaced except the little "ears" on the inside of the cockpit. Luckily my SP1 forks and carbon fiber fender were spared! So anyway, I tested everything I could think of and found no faults. I raised the tank and with it running I pulled the fuel pump power. It died pretty fast, which seemed like what I experienced while riding, so I was thinking maybe the original '99 pump was giving up. I think my bike was built in late '98, and it had nearly 102k miles at the time. I actually have a spare pump, not the assembly, so I was thinking to swap it out. But since it's not the complete assembly it was going to be a lot of effort for a hunch. So I ignored it for a few more months. Eventually I decided to try it again, and it did exactly the same thing in the same spot! Duh, of course it did. I coasted a bit trying the same things, but then remembered cycling the key seemed to work before, and it did again. This time without stopping. Still not sure, I continued to ignore. One day I left work and needed to get gas on the way. Started fine at work, but at the gas station it barely turned over. The engine was warm enough to catch though, and I got it home. Back to charging system testing, and I found a dead battery (obvious). Stator tested fine, but the R/R failed on the testing procedure outlined on RoadsterCycle.com. I got with him to order a brand new FH020 and had the battery load tested, it failed. It was a Yuasa for the ST1300, because that was a thing a few years ago that people were doing. Same physical dimensions, but higher CCA. Always on a Tender, maybe 3 years old. With the new R/R, and a battery from my one time project bike, I rode it once again to work. Got there fine, but leaving for home it once again barely started. At home I tested everything again and still found faults on the new R/R. Jack at Roadster said he tests them before sending, but I could return it so he could test it and see what happens. He tested it to be working properly, so I started looking at the wiring. I found the output + wire didn't have continuity, and then found the 30a fuse had blown when the FH012 R/R died. I guess my cheap old mini multi-meter wasn't up to the task of properly diagnosing the R/R. Works fine for continuity and voltage, though. I replaced the fuse and was still getting funky continuity reading through it because when it surged it melted the fuse holder a bit and one of the blades on the fuse was beside the female terminal instead of inside it. I sent another email to Jack and had him include one of his 30a auto reset breakers to replace the fuse holder. New R/R and 30a breaker installed, it charges at 14+ at idle! Yes, back in business! Still not riding much though, cause now it's Fall and still no spare time or money. I did get a new replacement Everstart from Wally World in the ST1300 CCA rating when I sold the other bike. I can't recall exactly when, but I did ride it a few times to work without issue, but those were all not on the same road I was loosing it before. Then I was back on that stretch of highway, but going in the opposite direction and it died, but I was able to cycle the key and get it started pretty quick. Then I ignored it for a few more more months. Not long ago I decided to go ahead with COP conversion and remove the big ugly coils in favor of some Gixxer stick coils, coil on plug, COP. They were donated, and with some research I discovered I could get the CBR coil harness for like $7. Cheap modding, I'm in! After getting them installed I took it for a test ride to get gas. I had previously siphoned my tank because it had been sitting for several months and my car was low. So why let a full bike tank go bad from sitting, plus it's still in the back of my mind that I have to pull the fuel pump. I head out with the gauge blinking at me, knowing I still have plenty, but also having lots of doubt as to exactly how much gas is in there. As I am nearly turning left into the station, I hit a bump and it dies! Of course it does, but did it slosh gas away from the pump enough to kill it, or is it the old issue? Restarts and I fill up and get home. The next day I decide to take it out for a longer test and it dies on my within the first 15 minutes. I cycle the key and start it and continue to ride for a few more hours without issue. At this point, I'm down to one job but looking to get my old one back. So it's plenty of free time but not much money. I saw post on VFRD that got me looking at my main 30a fuse, and not liking what I see. This is the OE fuse holder on the front of the battery box. It's very brown and crusty looking, but not melted. The fuse blades are pretty dark from what I assume is the arcing of a slightly loose connection. I could clean it up and tighten the female connections, or even replace the entire thing with a better more sealed fuse holder, but I decide to get another of the 30a breakers from Roadster. They have nut and bolt connections with ring terminals on the wiring. Much more sturdy connection! Now that's in, and the tail is off, so I decide to really get cracking on this whole thing. I looked up the wiring and found the 2 relays that could have an affect on the fuel pump. I got them loose from their holders and started smacking them around to see if they responded to excessive bumping. Well, I found that if you hit them hard enough they do indeed break connection, but only for long enough to kill the engine. They would reset themselves and the fuel pump would prime, and I could start the engine without needing to cycle the key. Still not it. After the big crash I had the replacement front "de-dumboed" and wired in Gixxer signal mirrors. Looks great, works great, but makes taking the front fairing off a major PITA! My only other thought at this point, other than fuel pump, is the bank angle sensor (BAS). It's the tip over cut off, and I couldn't remember exactly if it needed the key cycled in order to clear it. I did trigger it once while riding, but barely avoided a crash, but I forgot how I got it restarted. But now I have no other choice. I have to eliminate it as a possibility. I finally get to it and unbolt it. If I shake it, it makes a loud rattle. I also noticed a tiny bit of fluid on my fingers after handling it. Is it fluid damped? I don't know! I texted SebSpeed, cause I know he's working on a 5th Gen project to ask if he's got access to the BAS and if he thinks it's fluid filled. He didn't have the VFR BAS handy, but another one from a CBR (I think) was in the shop, and he said he never considered it, but it did indeed seem to be fluid filled. I'm looking at mine, and it's clearly got a little bit of exterior damage, but I never would have considered that it was sealed and now that seal was broken. I plug it in and give it a moderate shake while running, and sure enough it immediately dies and won't start. Here's the thing; the starter turns. It's the only shut off mechanism that still allows the starter to turn but not the bike to fire. Cycle the key and it fires right up! I texted Seb back to see if he knows which wires to jump to make it run. I remembered from the wire diagram that the orange wire on the bike side of the connector has something to do with the 2 relays in the tail. He wasn't sure so I tried a couple things and got it to work with orange jumped to green (ground). I could have tried test riding it with the jumper wire in, but it's too much work to get to. I found a BAS from an ST1100 with the same connector on eBay for $6.50 shipped, and jumped on it. It looked the same in pics, and when it arrived it matched exactly the plug and mounting bolts. I plugged it in and it works! Smacked it round and shook it vertically, and it stays running. I can hear a distinct difference in them, my old one sounded like a bolt inside a plastic box when I shook it, and the other one sounds like it's fluid damped to prevent it moving excessively and shutting the bike down. So that's it! Who would have thought that the BAS could have been slightly damaged enough to work fine for a couple years then start slowly driving me mad?!?! I guess it didn't all spill out, but instead slowly evaporated over time. I rode it a bit yesterday and hit as many sharp bumps as I could stand with no issues. Fixed! Of course I found while the fairings were off that the water pump is dripping from the weep hole. Only one thing that means, water pump is on it's way out. Second one on this bike. I forget the mileage on the first one, 30-ish thousand miles? (edit- Actually more like 50k) I was doing track days and swapping out distilled water and cheap parts store coolant. I figure that I should spring for some fancy silicone hoses while I'm at it. I was looking at another 5th Gen taken apart and the seals for the coolant connections to the cylinders in the V on that bike were perished. So, I'll plan on a full cooling system overhaul in the near future now that I'm earning a proper paycheck again. Probably change the spark plugs too, since I don't know how old mine are and I've got the new COPs. (It never ends!) Apologies for the extreme wordiness of my post, but I wanted to illustrate the difficulties of diagnosing an issue while another crops up in the middle of it.

Hello, my 2006 VFR800A died within a minute of driving. I found that I had a short in the alarm system or heated gear connection, which caused frame to be positive. I removed that stuff, it was wired directly off the battery. Was hoping that would just make things work, but no such luck. Battery doesn't drain in under a day now, that's a plus I guess... When I turn the ignition key to on with the red switch closed, I hear the relay click once, and that's it. Then it clicks again on turning the key off. (same behavior with the key in the on position, and closing and opening the red switch). Reading no voltage between brown and green plug for the fuel pump. Looked at the large blue plug, looks ok? Not sure where to go from here. I read here that the relay is supposed to click again in a couple seconds, but mine doesn't. Just clicks on red switch close/open or key turn on. What should be the next thing to check? Thanks!!!

This was certainly not my finest hour - I was replacing the original battery on a new-to-me 2010 VFR 1200 when the terminal on the new (Interstate) battery broke off! (I'll be returning it for a Yuasa). Anyway, during the ensuing struggle, I accidentally shorted/arched the negative wire to ground. Now when I hit start, I do not hear the fuel pump/injectors kicking on like they used to. After several attempts, the bike started briefly but died out shortly thereafter. During the time it was running, I tried blipping the throttle and it did absolutely nothing, like it was no longer functional. I visually inspected all of the underseat fuses and they all look fine. Any assistance would be GREATLY appreciated!

Hi Guys, Got a VFR 1200 FA and it keeps burning out fuel pumps! Tried both Honda OEM, very expensive and cheap replacements. I have replaced rectifier, relays and check cabling for voltage drop, continuity and any signs of damage and see nothing wrong. There is no water or gunk in the tank and the fuel is standard unlead 95 or 98. I am about to replace the COPs (Coil Over Plug), in case these cause any issues and will remove the fuel filter with a tank filler sock filter. The problem typically happens after a straight run on the motorway, I am getting quite good at replacing these and don't go anywhere without a spare. They can last from 500 km to 5000 km, but would expect about 25000 km min... What happens is the carbon brushes seem to ware out... I have read that in tank fuel pumps do have a trigger signal that is used to clear the surface of these, but this is in micro seconds, not sure if this has something to do with it. Spoke to a Honda dealer and he thinks the COPs are at fault, we will see.. Otherwise I love the bike... Anyone else had this issue? dave

2007 Honda VFR 800 The bike quit a few times randomly while riding it. By the time I got to the side of the road it would start right back up One day when I rode to work: · No issues on the way in (20 minutes) · Bike wouldn't run more than 100 yards without quitting after work. o When it quit the FI light wasn't on o Cycling the key and kill switch didn't do anything to get the pump to prime. The FI light only flashes as the starter turns the engine over. o Hitting the start switch the engine would turn over, but never fire o After letting it sit (~5 minutes) without touching anything the fuel pump would prime and light would come on o You could then start the bike and ride ~100 yards before it quit again. o All other electronics seem to be working correctly all the time (electronic speedometer, lights, etc.) o After loading the bike into the truck and taking it home the FI light won’t come on and the pump won’t prime….even after cooled off. Since the FI light flashes when hitting the starter, I’d think the fuel pump isn't the problem but rather something is preventing power from getting to the light or pump. What’s a good place to start looking for issues?

I hate to start another electrical thread, and have been reading all the wiring harness threads and testing various parts of the system, but I am trying to learn how to use a multimeter. Mine is analog. And all I know about electricity is that it is FM. (Fooken Magic). I need to figure out why oldster's fuel pump won't energize. To find the bad spot, I'm supposed to remove the cable from the positive post of the battery, put the black lead (ground) from the meter on the neg. battery post, and measure voltage and resistance at suspect places along the harness. Right? The battery is charged and the engine cranks fine. Just no whine. Everything was working fine (accept the horn - it's wires had been connected - broken fuse holder) before I took the wiring harness apart in front to replace the upper cowl support. All connections looked great and everything was connected properly. I had to buy a new in-line fuse for the horn and reconnect it. I turned the key and the horn started blaring non-stop. Shut off ignition and unplugged the horn. Deal with that later. But the fuel pump did not energize when I turned the ignition back on. I do not know if the fuel pump energized the first time because the horn had all my attention. Took all front wires apart again and sprayed electrical cleaner on both sides of all connections. Back together, fuel pump still does not work. Could the horn event affect the rest of the harness or the fuel pump ? This '01, the oldster, has 105,000 mi. I started to check the fuel pump but the service manual has me removing the air box and all ignition pieces so I stopped. Seems too much just to test the fuel pump. And I need detailed procedure to test the pump. BTW, I have a VFRness and Rick's r/r to be put on the youngster (no r/r melting, burnt connectors, all looks perfect) bike as preventive. (The old gals r/r and stator failed and were replaced 17,000 mi ago. I'm hopeing they will last a while.) I should probably order a second VFRness for the oldster but money is tight and I've already spent $1500 for new bodywork. I'm going out to disassemble the start/stop switch to see what it looks like. Back in a few minutes. Terry

2001 VFR 800 Fi. With ignition on all lights and displays come on. Cannot hear the fuel pump charge. Engine cranks, no fuel smell. Can hear a rely click on and then off in area of fuel cut relay. What do I test first?

Hello all, Some of you may know that the fuel pump on my 750 packed up recently and was only brought back to life by the mechanic filing down the points inside. He said it'll work for a while but that I will definately need to get myself a new one. Of course the OEM one is a ton of money and will eventually break again so I am looking at getting something cheaper that will also last longer. Facet seem to do a range of pumps but is there one in partiuclar that will work as good as OEM and not flood the engine? There is also this one but again might it flood the engine: http://www.ebay.ie/itm/12V-ELECTRIC-FUEL-PUMP-UNIVERSAL-DIESEL-OR-PETROL-/261060771194?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cc86f3d7a And then this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-CBR600-900-VFR750-Replacement-Fuel-Pump-/111142109343?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item19e096009f What would your recommendations be?

Hi All, Second question from my RC30 replica project, I want to use an NC30 tank on my VFR750 (4th gen) for my RC30 project (would love an RC30 one but seem to be as rare as rocking horse, er, teeth). From what I can see teh VFR uses a pressurised fuel system via a fuel pump, the NC30 and RC30 both had a simple gravity type system (pretty sure most of the earlier VFRs did), can I simply ditch the fuel pump and use that type of tank, running the fuel line from the fuel cock to the carbs? Any help would be welcomed! Sean

Hi all, I have a recurring leak from the stock fuel pump on my '95 (from the vent area). The leak is bad enough that it's leaving a puddle under the bike, so I purchased a Facet 40171 fuel pump to do the replacement. Before I get too far with fuel lines and the install, I thought I'd ask if anyone has done this and can share any tips or photos of their install/routing? I've seen it referenced as a thread on here several times, but muliple searches have turned up zilch. I'm not particularly interested in running gravity-feed only, for those that offer that suggestion. Thanks in advance. - Tom