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I originally bought my 2010 DCT because arthritis in my left ankle was causing me increasing difficulty in changing gear on my various conventional bikes. In that regard it has been fantastic, totally reliable and a joy to ride. However, now I am starting to have the same problem on the right side and am concerned that soon I will be unable to operate the rear brake sufficiently well to help control the bike during slow speed manoeuvres. Consequently, I am considering the possibility of utilising a clutch lever from a F to enable me to have a rear brake operated from the left handlebar. I would be interested to hear from anyone who may also have tried to do this and how well it may have worked.

Hello everyone, been lurking for about 6 days now searching feverishly to see if anyone else has had this, sadly I simply cannot find any matching posts. tl;dr= rotating wheel while in center stand causes a clunking noise as if gears are being engaged loosely. I recently purchased a 2010 VFR1200FD that I've had my eye on for sometime. On the drive home however I noticed that approaching stop signs I can hear the something making a chattering noise. When I got home I put it up on the center stand and while checking things over I believe I stumbled upon the source of the noise. Now I have to question, is this normal. Allow me to describe: 1. Put the motorcycle on it's center stand. 2. Start the bike 3. Shift it into drive (hear the clunk of the DCT engaging) 4. Cut the engine off via the key (this leaves portions of the transmission engaged) 5. Grab the rear wheel and rotate it CW and CCW What I note when I do this is that there is small amount of distance that the wheel is easy to rotate (~20 degrees), then it's as if the linkages hit something that causes resistance inside the transmission and small clunk can be heard. If I rotate the wheel vigorously CW and CCW it actually makes a clunking noise as if two cogs are hitting together. Almost like that feeling when two gears have to much spacing between there teeth so there is space between the point of engagement. I've change the final drive oil, and while doing so felt inside and note that there is no free play inside the gears. Then removed the lower fairing and felt the drive shaft through the rubber dust cover and note that there is no free play from the shaft. What I mean by no free play is that I can feel an equal amount of rotation of the drive shaft for the amount of turning I am applying to the wheel. This leads me to my suspicion that perhaps there is something in the transmission. So here's what I need help with: 1. Am I crazy and this is normal for a DCT? 2. If you have a DCT with a center stand, can you please go do the same thing and let me know if you find. Final note, I have called a Honda dealership and they ran my VIN and this bike has had the recall work completed for the final drive and shaft. Edit (Final Update and Closure) So in the end, this just comes down to a poor design in the Honda VFR1200F and FD transmissions which includes a bit to much backlash. Such that at lower speed the wheel and transmission keep racing each other, this causes the backlash to knock the gears back and forth. Sometimes the wheel is moving the shaft and sometimes the transmission is moving the shaft. When the vehicle switches between these two states the backlash knock occurs.

Yesterday afternoon after work I got on my 2010 DCT for my ride home. All is normal with the bike. Into "D" or 1st to get going. Give some throttle and the bike dies on me. It felt completely like it feels when you stall in first gear at pull away with a manual bike. Start her up again and all is well. So off I go. Has any other DCT riders experienced that?

Hi all, Since VFR1200 is not sold where I live, the dealers here could not answer my question. Can someone confirm if the speedometer on the manual VFR1200 can be installed on the DCT model or not. Thanks.

I down loaded the the manual for the F model, but it does not have some critical DCT model information. Does anyone know where and FD manual could be down loaded, or the different pages for the DCT version? Thanks

Good day, After having sold my much loved DCT to move back to the U.S. from Australia, I am on the hunt to replace the bike. I am located on the East coast and am hopeful members can help. I will share that I found a 2013 in Charlotte with a list price of $17,500; purchase price was $14,500 plus the associated fees. The same bike in Australia was $15,000 including the panniers and top box! Please help me to locate other machines, as well, let me know what price I should truly expect? Thank you.

I got my VFR 1200 DCT in 2010 as a DC commuter and fun bike. She has been so reliable I'm not had to research much on the mechanical design or owner problems. Its good to see this VFR1200 community thriving! V/r, DanVFR1200

Hello, I like VFR1200F but after paragraphs 2010-2012 and 2013 are different, the difference is that instrument, and the TC, really want to know, whether DCTclutch have upgrade, even better than the previous generation?Thank you for your answer friend

So I've sold my old house and there's enough left over from paying everything off to purchase a brand new VFR1200 but I'm waiting to get the best deal I can. As winter and the end of year approaches, more & more dealers are starting to offer good price discounts and as it will be my new summer bike, I can afford to wait. Ideally, it will be a black DCT, with the "GT Pack" (full luggage (29 litre panniers, 45 litre colour coded top box, centre stand, heated grips & touring screen). My current list of preferred additions will be: Custom seat Rear hugger Front fender extender Aux power socket (one under seat & one at handlebars for sat nav) Optimate lead for battery maintenance Mirror extenders New end can (DAM, Competition Werkes, GPR ???) I'm going to stick with standard suspension to start with & see how I get on. I am aware that a lot of you out there don't rate the OEM rear shock so I'll wait & see. I know, it's only when I've actually bought it and have posted pictures that it exists, but now the cash is sat there, I want to start to get an idea of what I want to buy so I'm open to any other suggestions from those who already have their own 1200.

Some of us are looking for fuel maps that can be used in an ECU re-flash developed by Don Guhl that resolves quite a few of the issues with the stock ECU, such as 1here is a thread on this subject http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/77723-don-guhl-ecu-reflash-on-2013-f-model-yes-it-is-awesome/ Sorry, my cat jumped on me and...well, the post was sent unfinished. Short and sweet, we need fuel maps for two scenarios: 1) stock, no mods. Hopefully, they correct any fuel issues, particularly in 1st/2nd gear. 2) minor mods. Slip-on, air filter (aka K&N) Preferably these would be Power Commander as Guhl has indicated he can easily import them, but Bazzaz or others May Aldo work.

I would really appreciate some advice from owners of the VFR1200 to help me in my purchasing decision. I have read countless blogs, reviews, and watched too much You Tube about this bike. But, I really would like to hear advice about my situation. Let me share a bit about my situation and why I would like your advice. I am 47 and live in Japan, 6 ft tall, 225 lbs, 32 in inseam. I was intimate with my old CB400T Hawk for 3 years, but that was nearly 25 years ago. I recently took training and got my license to let me drive here in Japan. I think the training is probably very similar to the motorcycle safety course run in many countries. For me it was about 34 hours of riding on a course: S-turn, slalom, crank, balance, emergency braking, etc. without going faster than 25 mph (40 km/h). I love motorcycles and riding, but circumstances kept me from riding for such a long gap. I recognize my inexperience and wanted advice from you all. I bought a Burgman 650 and am generally happy with it except for the seat. I thought an upright riding position would be comfortable, but it is not on this bike. My knees are basically too high, putting quite a bit of pressure on my butt, painful after 30 min of riding. The bike is a scooter meaning turning becomes less controlled and not extremely quick. I feel like I am steering a boat rather than riding a bike. Going over speed bumps and the like is painful because I cannot stand up on the floorboards. Acceleration for this 52 hp machine is marginally adequate, but I want more when I am on the highway for passing, and would not mind a quicker run between stop lights. Automatic transmission is convenient, although I have no issue with shifting. I love the storage on the bike. I can fit my full riding gear under the seat. I can thread through traffic most of the time, although the bike's size suggests prudence is required. I like the windscreen for the highway, but hate it in town -- it obscures my view and, in summer, I really want the wind to hit me because it is just too hot at slow speeds! The bike has seat heaters and grip heaters as standard. A first for me, and they were convenient in the winter. My wife just took her motorcycle license. She has never driven a bike before except for the course described above. She is 5'1", 100 lb or less. Ideally I would love to get a bike that she could also ride, but I do not plan to buy two bikes. Most of my riding is commuting to work. This is a 6 mile journey one way that takes about 30 mins due to traffic and the number of stop lights. It is all on two lane roads (one in each direction). Occasionally I take the bike out for a longer ride that would involve some highway driving, busy four lane roads, and some quiet two lane roads. The speed limits here are around 50 mph on the highway, but it is usual to get to 70 mph or so without too much fear of a ticket. Passing power is helpful. I absolutely love the looks of the VFR1200, particularly the cleanliness of the back end with its shaft drive. I am attracted to the DCT partly for me due to all the stop-and-go traffic I face, and particularly for my wife because it will make it safer for her to drive due to her lack of experience with shifting. The technology deployed in the bike is really incredible. The bike costs a fortune here and few are on the used market. I basically have two options in my purchase of a VFR1200 DCT. A 2010 US spec with ~170 hp, and a 2014 Japan spec with ~112 hp. I cannot get a test drive of the bike easily (if at all), but can sit on one. Before I buy, I wanted advice. That's the background, here are my questions! I think the 2014 has the drive mode setting to reduce torque response. Is my wife going to make me a widower quickly if she slightly mishandles the throttle? is this bike going to try and kill her? Am I correct in that the 2010 does not have the separate drive / sports mode? Or does it have it? Is this bike likely to be better than my Burgman 650 for lane splitting, curb-hugging under-taking, and jack-rabbiting to stop lights, or is it just not responsive enough in its steering, size, etc. for this kind of duty? Is my wife too small to feel comfortable on the bike? Or should I expect her to drop it many times and run up excessive repair bills to repair the fairing / mirrors / whatever? Would a woman her size be able to control it well enough in your opinion with her experience? is 112 hp enough headroom in a bike with my weight for passing cars, i.e going from 40 mph to 80 mph quickly? Is 173 hp probably too much for this old, somewhat cautious, somewhat adventurous driver? Am I really going to miss the luggage space, or would a top-box be just fine for storing my helmet? I like the idea of traction control for my wife to make sure she does not flip the bike up on end. Am I making the right assumption that she cannot wheelie the bike with TC on? Am I likely to find the VFR1200 comfortable enough? I am used to bicycling (road and mountain), so I do not mind having my bulk partly supported by my legs and hands to save my butt. I know comfort is in the rider, but I think you probably have some advice to offer for someone my size (personal or through friends). Is the 2014 model a better choice for me based on my situation with its features, or is the 2010 (also new) sufficient? I know that many of the answers have so many dependent variables, but I hope I provided enough background on me to help you give me some kind advice. I probably missed asking a couple of pertinent questions, so feel free to answer what I should have asked! Thank you in advance for taking the time to read this long post.

This is my first post - I am a new 2010 VFR1200FD owner ... Thanks in advance for your patience. Only had bike about 3 months - bought used - 2300 miles on it. Bought the bike and just about finished adding my touches: - See list below at bottom I am NOT a TECHIE - so if details are not below what else would you suggest But........ I can not start the bike and local Honda dealer acts they have no clue - or willing to assist - so here I am rode the bike, turned ignition off; locked the wheel - took key. 3 days later - go to start. Insert key, lights come on, dash illuminates and goes through normal boot of items. EXCEPT: Gear indicator is not steady and it is flashing (quick (short) flashes. Of course, by design, the engine will not "crank" if not in neutral" I use kill switch up and down a couple of times to see maybe if there is a contact issue. However I notice when in kill (off Position) gear indicator says "1". The bike rolls - and is not real heavy so I assume in default of neutral and not just hung in 1st allowing me to push. I have rocked it back and forth several times to just make sure to see if it would get out of gear if it was. (about 10 feet up and back) I turn ignition switch off, ensure kill switch is off (run position). Turn key back on. gear indicator is steady "-" and not blinking. Even though I do not have a neutral light I attempt to start and I get no response. - the lights dim as if very low battery (which is odd - maintainer has been on battery). And now gear indicator flashes - which is in a pattern - 3 long and 1 short. Which I assume is DTC 31 (gear indicator sensor). However someone else says they 4 and 2. Tries starting with brake applied and bike loses ALL electrical power/ I have checked fuses and battery and found both OK. Anyone have any ideas on how to proceed? PLEASE!! Can I reset DCT manually down to neutral someway? #timetotrade Modifications: Added Side saddle bags (OEM) Added TRX frame sliders (web site says not available for DCT model - but call them- they will make) Added TRX custom luggage protectors (similar to frame sliders but for saddle bags) Two Brothers Slip On BLACK series pipe Red bard ends Front fork sliders Crank case slider (heavy metal) Eliminated tail (personal mod s I could not find a mod I liked on market) Added license plate and light up under fender to give more Sporty look Added mud guard on rear tire rear cover for axle/crankcase slider LED 1-million LED Glo kit Corbin seat Planned: Dark Smoke windscreen HID head lights Add LED lights for rear (just bulb replacement as I cannot find an eliminator kit.

Hi, This is my first post on this site , so forgive me if i do things incorrectly My V12 auto box started to get stuck in one gear (mostly second) and displays a flashing "-" on the gear indicator . Has this happened to anyone else? The workshop mack. went into some "secret" menu, to "reset" the gearbox, but no luck. I was also supposed to count the flashes in order to determine the error code. What is this about?

Sorry to bother everyone with a simple question, but I've searched the site and the web to no avail. What's the torque spec for the bolts that hold on the clutch oil filter cover on the DCT? I have the service manual for the standard clutch and it doesn't say. Thanks.