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Everything posted by Dutchy
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The second (1VJ )model 1986-1987 ruined the reputation of the 34L/55W engine. Placing the oil cooler in front of the engine proved a bad idea... Adding air cut out in the lower part of the front mudguard would be a start.. So this being a 1989 is good PS: I recall you pointind me to a spare engine in the Netherlands for export to Finland....
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Overheating in traffic - Sometimes
Dutchy replied to Jack000's topic in Third and Fourth Generation VFR's
override switch is easy, the fan is triggered via ground. Run a wire from the fan's negative connector, instal an on/off switch and run the wire to ground. -
Names to the faces?
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My Morini 🦘 has a dry clutch, book says 20-50. I first used up the 10-40 I had left. Next she'll get https://www.louis.nl/nl/saito-motorolie-sae-20w-50-4t-mineral-4-liter-10038558?filter_bike_id=4472&filter_article_number=10038558 Yep, cheap as chips.... Lambertini's engine has a lot of interesting features. Like no actual oil feed to the head's tappets/springs, but "oil vapour". So the less sophisticated the oil the better...
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Motul 5100 4 liter is ~€37 Motul 7100 4 liter is ~€55 So far I've over 300,000km with 5100 in my Honda V4 and V2's Semi synth is perfectly fine PS I run 50W monograde in my 1950's 4 stroke Gilera.....
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Tire Pressure and Suspension setup advice!
Dutchy replied to SgtMarbles's question in Modification Questions
Just enjoy the ride. I would leave the bike pretty much as it is and you have been riding it till now. After the first 100km set it 2 clicks harder and ride another 100km to see if you prefer it or not. It is easy to overthink suspension, I used to do that too. Been riding a few times 2,000km in 7 days on this. WOT up and down curvy mountainroads No suspension adjusment... -
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Welcome ro VFRD from across the pond!!
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Temp gauge is a bit slow yeah, just as the fuel gauge stays up and than drops like a brick. No worries. If FL gets hot, a simple flick switch allows you to let the fan run. Wire the fan's negative connector to the frame with the switch inline.
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Loosen the rad's mounting points and put a diy wedge in so you have maximum space. Can't get a torque wrench in so tighten 'a mani' as my Italian pals tell me. You could torque the rear ones and 'get a feel' on the force required. But in practise, tighten by hand and give it 1/4 turn works for me.
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Here some spare tools from a VFR800 kit The "key" 3 are on the right. Chain and shock tensioner The ring spanners are 14 17 and 10 12. The regular 8 12 and 10 14 The full kit has afaik a feeler gauge and a flat/philips screwdriver.
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I had Pirelli GT's on my RC51 and did a trackday. Plenty corner grip.
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Welcome to VFRD from across the North Sea!
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VF500F2 Aka MBD Incubation Period At Least 52 Years
Dutchy replied to Dutchy's topic in Earlier VFRs
Aye, best is to attain a "ZEN" state of mind, the art of motorcycle maintenance one 😎 -
VF500F2 Aka MBD Incubation Period At Least 52 Years
Dutchy replied to Dutchy's topic in Earlier VFRs
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Fixed that for you...
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Yeah #9 provides a little "cover" over the tiny hole (not blocking it). Must be a Honda engineer waking up at night with a vision.... https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle/750-MOTO/VFR/1997 The VFR800fi (1998-1999) had the comdom mirrors like the VFR750F. The VFR800fi 2000-2001 (hense Y2k) had these must better looking ones.
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Welcome to VFRD from across the pond (where it rains a lot...) As for feeling you overpaid... let it go... the money is gone
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"to be able to wheelie better" Buy a Suzuki?
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VF500F2 Aka MBD Incubation Period At Least 52 Years
Dutchy replied to Dutchy's topic in Earlier VFRs
Being Dutch (not the tiniest people) make them even smaller...... Here my pal Kees on his 125 Ducati scrambler. 2000km in a week's mountain riding no problem either... -
VF500F2 Aka MBD Incubation Period At Least 52 Years
Dutchy replied to Dutchy's topic in Earlier VFRs