canib

I bought a used CBR600 with a 190 rear. Dropped down to a 180 and it handled way better. Nice wheel conversion! I love "out of the box" mods. Quit goofing around and put some Mat Tracks on there.

Inquiring minds want to know; projected price?

Daniel, I live in Las Vegas, Nevada USA. The climate may be very similar to Israel. I use Continental Road Attacks. They are sticky enough and seem to last long enough. The problems we have here are sand in the corners and oil on the roads because it never rains. The Conti Road Attacks hold their grip and I haven't had any traction problems, except in the mornings. There is a turn leaving my neighborhood and I seem to lose traction when I go through it too fast. Not much, but just enough to lose confidence. I think it's an issue with the tires being cold.

Team VFRD, I though I'd post up my notes so hopefully they help someone else. One thing to note; I thought I bought it with a 19kg spring but when I looked at it recently I found it had a 17kg spring... Current Suspension; FRONT: Sonic Springs .90 (22% increase over stock) REAR: Ohlins w/ 17.32 Kg/mm (13% increase over stock) Stock Suspension; .74 kg springs up front 15.29 Kg spring in the rear Ohlins Info; S46DR1S (01092-69/170 L336) w/ 17.32 Kg/mm. Spring; 6.7" or 170mm long unsprung 01092 = spring length. -69 = spring rate. -69 equals 17.32 Kg/mm 170 = spring rate in Nmm (Newtons per mm I think) L336 = manufacture's batch number Features: S - Single tube D - Internal reservoir R1 - Adjustable rebound damping S - Hose mounted hydraulic spring preload adjuster Part number: OHHO 203 AKA HO 203 Year: 2002-09 Position: rear Length: 317.5 mm Stroke: 53.5 mm Sonic Springs Notes; Sonic springs recommends 1.0 spring rate for agressive riding / 0.95 for normal. Most peeps recommend .95 or .90 - I went with .90 which is a 22% increase. .85 would have been a 15% increase. Links I used for reasearch; Ohlins Shock Spring Conversion Chart, http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=38664 Ohlins S46DR1S info page; http://www.ohlins.com/Our-products/Motorcy...Touring/HO-203/ S46DR1S Ownser Manual; http://www.ohlins.com/Products/OwnersManuals/OM_07241-02.pdf S46DR1S Install Instructions; http://www.ohlins.com/Products/MountingIns...ns/MI_HO203.pdf Problems I had; The shock originally road like a hard tail. It was stiff as hell. The back end of the bike was way too high which screwed with the ride geometry. My weight was too far over the handles bars. Preload was 0. This caused the rear end to be too high. Rebound damping was screwed all the way up, so the shock never rebounded once is was compressed. This caused 'packing' where the shock is stiff becuase once it's loaded it never bounces back. I still need to dial in sag properly in the rear, but now it's pretty darn close now. Rebound damping is at the factory suggested setting and it's OK. I won't screw with rebound until after I've set rear sag and ridden on it for awhile. Front sag is set. I hated my bike for the last few months becuase I was over the handle bars and the ride was stiff as hell. It rides MUCH better now and I'm back in love with my bike. THANKS GUYS!

Dood, Baileyrock this must be the 20th time you've given me awesome advice. I had rebound jacked up to 11!! (You know, it's like 10, but one more) Now I have to put the shock back on for resetting and testing. It's too late to do so today, but tomorrow after work and school I'll be getting greasy. THANKS!

I found the manual here; http://www.ohlins.com/Products/OwnersManuals/OM_07241-02.pdf I can follow the setup instructions and see what happens. I set the spring preload when I first bought it, but I couldn't unload it enough. I had the hydraulic adjuster knob all the way unscrewed and still didn't have enough sag. The knob is currently on by about 1/2 turn... undo it by 1/2 and the thing will fall off. It looks like the manual says there is too much rebound and compression damping based on what I'm feeling. The ride in the rear end is way too hard. I feel _every_ bump in the road. If I remember correctly one of the mechanics I took it to turned the rebound damping waaay up, so that may be the problem. The sag in front is spot on. vfrcapn I will definitely keep you in mind, thanks. I think my preference at this point is to see if anyone has a 18.34 Kg/mm spring they want to trade for. I think keeping the percentage of changed stiffness similar will be good. I don't want too have hard in front and soft in rear. I think the slight change will help. Of course I need to figure out how to get the spring off... First though I'll put the shock back on and redo the setup instructions. Maybe the damping is just borked. Thanks!

Team VFRD, I’m looking for spring rate suggestions for my Ohlins. I currently have; Front - Sonic springs 0.90. 22% increase over stock. Rear – Ohlins S46DR1S w/ 19.36Kg/mm spring. 27% increase over stock 2006 VFR w/ ~14,000mi but only about 4k on the new sproingers. I weigh 172lbs and probably 180ish all geared up. The front is _slightly_ too stiff for my taste and the rear is obviously bouncing my teeth out. I need help choosing the correct rear spring rate. Riding; 90% commuting 8% twisties 2% long road trips Based on my weight, which setup should I go with? 1) Rear: 17.32 Kg/mm (13% increase over stock) Front: change to Sonic 0.85 (15% increase) 2) Rear: 17.32 Kg/mm (13% increase over stock) Front: no change 3) Rear: 18.34 Kg/mm (20% increase over stock) Front: no change My preference is either choice 2 or 3 because it means I don’t have to buy new front springs… I’m leaning towards #2 because I’m a little gun shy after having such a stiff spring in the rear, but I’m worried about breaking the 5% rule that suggests the front and rear should be within 5% extra stiffness of each other. Follow up question – would anyone want to trade springs? Thanks!

Looks way cool. And I agree that it would pair well with the SuperDuke. Of course it all comes down to safety, quietness, and aerodynamics.

I just invented something in my head electrostatic velcro- velcro that changes it's state, either grabby or non-grabby, each time it gets a shot of electricity or it's polarity changed. Screw little motors. That's so two-thousand-late. Motorized zippers are for people who ride opposed twin engines I can't even afford a regular stitch, much less one with retrofitted magic zippers.

#2 - But you MUST carry the wing trough onto the tank. Having the tank done really ties the whole thing together. Good idea with going for the wrap! Vinyl wrapping vahicles is getting really popular.

Wow... glassy. The black stripe and lowers in black is a nice touch. The electric orange one is nice too!

Thanks all! This is why I love this forum. You all had great suggestions and I’ve summarized them at the bottom here. I’ve also answered some of your questions. I do work on my riding position when I remember, but I’ll work on it more. I’ll go center-stand practice until I think I’ve gotten a better position. Dimensions: 6 feet, 175lbs Exercise regularly, in good physical condition, don't stretch as much as I should Been riding 7 years I've put 13k+ miles on this bike Suggestions; Riding position, riding position, riding position. Try someone else’s bike. Either it's the bike or it's me. (Thanks, I was actually super comfortable on my Harley and old CB650. I'll borrow my friends FZ1 for a day to see how I feel.) Relax hands and arms (nervous in traffic? In Vegas stop and go traffic, yes.) Try a Corbin instead of a Sergeant, there seems to be very different seating positions. Do back stretching exercises before a ride. (I work out but rarely stretch, thanks!) Converti-bars Vario-bars Tank traction pads (I just put on some no-slip shower floor stickers that work great) Try sweeping the bars forward a little. The angle may be cocking my wrists at a bad angle. Could cause tendinitis of the elbows. Try dropping the forks all the way down. (Good idea, I'll need to research how this effects ride-ability first though)

Hello VFRD! Long time no post. I’m having a hard time with comfort issues on my 2006 VFR. I have the Sergeant seat, Heli-bars, and ZG double bubble wind screen. I have a ton of other mods too, but none of them should be relevant to comfort. Here’s the problem; rides longer than 30 minutes are uncomfortable in my back, neck, and shoulders. If I didn’t have so much money invested in the VFR I would seriously consider dumping it for a standard (love the Superdukes and FZ1s) The problem is it seems like the reach to the bars is too far. A friend of mine, who rides a ninja, even agrees that it’s a long reach to the bars. The worst is commuting through stop and go traffic. That really wears me out. I squeeze my knees when I come to a stop, but I have to put my feet down eventually and end up with too much weight on my arms. Here are my questions; What am I missing? Am I just a 31 year old pu**y? Does anyone have experience with the LSL Superbike bars on the 6th gen? Anyone within 100 miles of Vegas with those bars who’d let me try them out? The Sergeant Seat seems to make me sit farther away from the bars, anyone else notice this? When I put the heli-bars on, did I not have them tilted back far enough? They are about 1.5 inches away from the tank at full lock. Thanks in advance for all your help! I already scoot my butt as far forward as possible and keep my abs tight to help support the lower back. I’m really hoping there’s a way to fix this so I can keep my lovely VFR. Leg position is fine, I just lean too far forward.

I get 41 mph tank after tank with mixed riding. I don't know what I got before the PCIII.

The last Parkie I talked to at the end of the Calville road said, "I'm tired of carrying you guys out in peices. Keep the speed down." Nice guy. I wish he didn't have to pick up broken bikers either. Tod already posted this, but obviously they'll arrest you for triple digits; http://www.702sportbikes.com/viewtopic.php...1f906657bd50507 And the guy said he was nice and didn't run?! There's only two roads outta there, where was he going to go? Anyway - fun road, great video, don't get hurt, play nice with the Parkies - they maintain those sweet azz roads for us