FotoMoto

Dan, Have you considered or tried "easier" gearing. A larger front sprocket (6gen) might do wonders with 1/2 gear acceleration and due to the abundance of torque 3/4/5 probably wouldn't feel any different.

A few more mods: CBR1000RR radial front brakes via custom mounts, RC51 clip ons, and RC51 footpeg assemblies. Just got it back together tonight so I haven't ridden it yet but did butt test it in the garage. :beer: The pegs are about in the same location but IMO look better/more modern and replace damaged/rusted stockers. I could have re-installed my buell footpegs but after owning an RC51 for the past year, they now feel too low. The altered clipons are closer to me and have a better angle. The brakes stopped it when I pushed it outside. :blush: The business end of the new rotor chompers. CBR radial master cylinder mounted on the RC51 clipons. With the fork tubes raised, I had enough room to mount these ABOVE the triple. I reversed them (left is now the right) and bent the angle to my liking with a cheater pipe. :cool: The footpeg hangers are about 1 to 1.5mm off in bolt spacing but slightly enlarging the holes of the RC units with the next size drill bit did the trick. The rubber footpegs are aftermarket as the stock RC pegs are bare metal. Gear change assembly went on easily; I only had to space the entire mount out about 20mm for the shift rod to clear the frame spar. NOTE: with a shorter rod you could easily go to GP shift if you prefer. The rear brake side also bolted on after enlarging the holes but the heat shield needs adjusting. There is a gap at the front letting out more heat so I'll need to address that; probably with a CF solution. I still need to cut off the large holes on both sides. These were the mid-pipe exhaust mounts on the RC and aren't needed here. Hard to believe it's really a 96. :fing02:

No, the cbr1000rr clock doesn't bolt to the stock fairing bracket (stay) so you'd need some kind of adapter plate or brackets. Plus it's a LOT smaller so you'd have some unsightly gaps with the stock 4gen plastics. You need version 4 of the speedohealer. The older versions don't have the wide range of adjustments needed. BTDT You would also need the cbr headlight/instrument panel harness that plugs into the back of the gauge. All this involves cutting off and splicing into the main harness; not for the timid to say the least.

I don't know what it is either but I think it's ATF so you can see it easily. I added mobil 1 syn (only open bottle I had on hand) and it's pretty hard to see in the line once I purged all the red out. Can't say anything about fling yet as my RCBVFR is currently sans front wheel but UPS will fix that today with delivery of an SP2 RC51 hoop. :fing02:

This is why I didn't do mine this way. Welding. Gas tanks. Not for me! :dry: I preferred making a couple of brackets with longer bolts and it's been working fine for the past couple of years. I know of at least a couple of other folks working on their versions as I speak. Modded 4gens are the perfect future! Prepare to be assimilated. :biggrin: St3mpy hasn't logged in since Nov. Got busy with school?

Sorry for the late reply, my email notification for this thread isn't working; need to reset it I guess. I used cardboard to form the basic templates and then made the second set out of black plastic from a rubbermaid trashcan. The current edition is a copy of the 2nd but cut from thin carbon fiber sheets forming three layers with the screen sandwiched as the second in between.

This a mod I came up with several years ago. 98-99 5gen headers are the only stock ones that will bolt up to the 6gen and don't have a cat. A couple of aftermarket companies also sell 'em but higher costs. Do a search, plenty of threads about this. +1 on the interesting dB measurements.

Aren't you making things harder than they need to be? Get either the corresponding matching wheel or hub. Here's what I planned on doing but have put things on hold: ducati spindle and wheel. Machine off the backside half of the ducati axle so you are only left with the brake rotor mounts and the threaded front portion of the axle for the wheel mounting. Cut off the brake rotor mounting points as they are offset and you want a flat surface. Drill press on the remaining rotor carrier 4 matching holes for the vfr lug bolts. The triumph axle in the above pics all ready has the holes in these spots but they are WAY too large. Slide it on to the vfr hub and bolt it down with regular nuts (not the lug nuts). Clearance backside of wheel to clear nuts if needed (probably so). Bolt ducati wheel to the ducati axle. Hope this makes sense. A quick check with a hypermotard wheel on my 4gen showed that the offset clearance with the vfr brake caliper could be tight; very, very tight. Wheel alignment is, of course, critical too but you won't know until you do it. (yikes!)

The 51 design uses the central ram air intake for both the gauges and the fairing upper mounts as well as the obvious tank-to-mirror aluminum stay. It's really wide for a twin; especially compared to my old superhawks, so I'd think width issues would be minor. Rads should line up pretty close, I'd think. SuperHawkers have also done the 51 skin conversions.

Sorry, nothing up my sleeve. I will put these back on the RC and bolt up another set with Dan Kyle internals coming from the seller in California but with a quick stop back at Dan's shop to have them freshened up and resprung for my weight as there was a significant difference between us. Basically I realized I had everything on hand except the triples to try this mod. Then if I didn't like it, I wouldn't be out much dough (easily sell the triples) but I did so now it costing me! :biggrin: :biggrin: