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FotoMoto

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Everything posted by FotoMoto

  1. FotoMoto

    beads 3.jpg

    From the album: Miscellaneous

  2. FotoMoto

    beads 2.jpg

    From the album: Miscellaneous

  3. FotoMoto

    beads 1.jpg

    From the album: Miscellaneous

  4. FotoMoto

    bars 3.jpg

    From the album: Miscellaneous

  5. FotoMoto

    bars 2.jpg

    From the album: Miscellaneous

  6. FotoMoto

    bars 1.jpg

    From the album: Miscellaneous

  7. I have one from beadrider that I tried a couple of times on my old vtec. No prob with seat attachment. $25 shipped conus Definitely new condition.
  8. RC51; all years are the same. I had to space the rearsets out about 20mm for linkage clearance.
  9. FotoMoto

    Left side.jpg

    From the album: 4th Gen Secret Project

    © &copyvfdiscussion.com

  10. Why couldn't you return the risers for higher ones? Also, a hard rubber spacer should have worked too. Suzuki used that method on the old bandit 1200s I had. Another thought: you could have tried lowering the forks down in the triple a couple of mm's to give you the necessary clearance. Lowering the forks should slow steering but the "power steering" effect of much wider handlebars (as you are about to find out) would have negated that. Anyway, that's all water under the bridge now that you have LSL kit or can you still return it? :comp13: Adjust the handlebar the way you want, temporarily mount the switchgear tightly but don't strip out the threads and ride it for a while to make sure you are satisfied with the positioning of everything; make adjustments as necessary. Leave switches in place and remove brake/clutch perches so you'll have room to add an alignment index to the bar with a piece of tape. The horizontal line where the two halves of the switchgear come together is a natural reference point to align the tape with. Next, remove switchgear and put a dab of dark grease or similar on the locating pins. Carefully reattach the bottom switch half with the alignment tape and press against bar. Remove and check for the dot. Remove bar, centerpunch the dots, and drill with correct size bit; too large of a hole and switch will move/rock. Hope this makes sense without pics.
  11. FotoMoto

    stay_classy.gif

    From the album: Miscellaneous

    © &copyvfdiscussion.com

  12. FotoMoto

    IMG_6257.jpg

    From the album: 4th Gen Secret Project

    © &copyvfdiscussion.com

  13. I checked once with an ebay vendor if F4i rearsets would work with the 6gen and they said no (off by several mm). Don't know if they would fit the 4gen.
  14. Doug: The koso sensor threads into the thermostat housing. It replaces the stock unit. Hope you have small hands! :biggrin: The sensor on the rad is the fan switch. Best to leave that alone if you want a fully functioning cooling system! :cool: Seb: Yes, those are aftermarket F4i footpegs (HK knockoffs). They bolt right onto the RC hangers. Years ago, I tried them on my first 4gen as the original metal pegs were slippery plus I wanted to try reducing vibrations with a rubber peg. To get them to fit I needed to grind down the peg's mounting width a slight tad (technical term) to fit the narrower vfr hanger assemblies; no changes needed to pins or springs, etc.
  15. You are correct and need the f4i triple set as they are 43mm. Even better IMO: get a set of vtec triples (same 43mm size) for closer to stock geometry but they are harder to find since vfr riders tend to crash less than the cbr guys. :fing02:
  16. Bren, I think it's safe to say we both have tweaked uppers. Looking closer at your original pics, I now notice mine was nowhere near as off as yours but enough I needed to tap it down with a rubber mallet during installation.
  17. I'm running a cbr1000r lower (non-gullwing) and 954 upper with sp2 forks. I used a rubber mallet to make it work. :goofy: Although mine looked like it was new out of the box, it could just be a coincidence that we both got tweaked 954 uppers. OR the 1000rr triple tree has a slightly different offset. :fing02: Next time I have the front end apart, I'll try the 1000rr upper. It's not that ugly, really. :goofy:
  18. Nor necessarily incorrect. I have a similar setup to Bren and mine was a very tight fit too (954 upper). Since everything was used but sold as "straight", I just assumed something wasn't. Also like Bren, I had another one (in my case a cbr1000rr upper) that slid on smoothly. I run a cbr1000rr lower. Again since everything I have is used, I can't say with 100% certainty what is correct but I'm now leaning towards the 954 is a tad different. Jamie, the early cbr1000rr uppers are gullwing and will work but they are "cosmetically challenged" because of the electronic steering damper mounting points.
  19. Polished frame on my old superhawk. Made me feel like a harley fag because of all the needless time spent trying to keep it decent looking. The chromed wheels came in a close second. Pretty and low maintenance but they were kinda' like putting steel-toed work boots on a track athlete. :goofy: The wheels I would later replaced for a tidy profit but the frame was always there....... :comp13: KG9K3628.jpg
  20. FotoMoto

    RCBVFR750F

    From the album: 4th Gen Secret Project

    © &copyvfdiscussion.com

  21. GREAT, easy mod. :blink: The only downside I can see (besides color mismatch) would be finding a nice straight pair from these now 25 year old specimens; can't be that many floating around as the 1000's didn't sell in near the numbers of the 500/750's. When I had a CBX with 39mm forks, a popular mod was to add VF750f bars for a lower, more sportier, position as the stockers where incredibly tall.
  22. Short answer: nothing else bolts up to the stock VFR hub.
  23. Paging BLS (busylittleshop), you have a customer on the parking lot. BLS, you have a customer on the lot. :rolleyes:
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