JES_VFR

Well if you put it on the dyno, You should be able to see the flat spot you mentioned. As well as deal with any single cell anomalies in the PCV map worked out. Congratulations on getting it running in the end. I just had a freshly cleaned injector fail on a friends car, sticking wide opened. It's very frustrating when that happens, particularly when its a vendor you deal with often and they do provide before/ after documentation. I'm about to swap the RC51 for another 5th gen, so that I can keep riding while I take care of projects. Any updates on the HID projectors??

I'm guessing mostly his driver's license . . . Having gotten to compare the Phase I Torocharger to a stock bike, I'd say that punk up the road on a zx10/gsxr1000 or that ilk. Please do as finding copies of the Erion or TBR headers is getting harder and harder I'd love a reasonably priced copy of the Erion or TBR. I'd love to do the underseat exhaust, but I've already seconded that space for my HHO cell so I'm stuck with either a narrow oval high pipe or standard angle low pipe option. JZH said there was a smaller diameter hose that needed a 180 bend that he did not source. And Trav, can you post where you manage to source them please? My local source is hung up on the Samco hoses.

What brand of spline drive nuts where they, http://www.woodys-auto-supply.com/performance-accessory.asp?prod=G20-38431N Also how did you get an extra splined socket.

Any updates on how this is working out??? I'd love to do it right now, but I can't afford it right now.

Well I swapped out the back ground panel bulbs for these http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-xHP5.htm And 3 of the idiot lights with these http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2F74-xHP.html And for the turnsignal idicators on I used these. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x4.htm My flashers were already cycling fast because I have LED's in the back, and I'm adding flush mounted led lights upfront, so I also grabbed one of these. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FLFS-1-FLAT.html This module plugged right into the '01 harness and the flashing is slowed back down to a normal rate. The only bulb I did not replace was the FI light. As others have said it glows all time when you try to use a LED. I still have a couple of extra 74 base LED's so I may try adding some resistance to the FI circuit to make it work with the LED. but for now everything in the panel works so I'd rather just get it back together.

I wish I did not need to know, but how high should the wattage of the soldering iron be? I have several really old ones that might be high enough wattage for the job.

yeah, I'm looking for cool white or at least natural white leds.

Well I've used some 4 led, side firing ones in my cars and they worked well, very bright, but even lighting. I'm trying to find them again, but so far no luck. As for lower wattage, I don't use load resistors or the LEDS that have them. Mostly because as KPerham said, it just defeats the purpose. Now for the FI light and/or the turnsignals, I'm surprised there is that much voltage in what should be a switched circuit. I wonder if it is some sort of back current, given the crappy grounds of the 5th gen. Anyway thanks for the input everyone

Well, I've got one dead 194 bulb behind both the speedo and tach, so they both have been sort of dim at night. I'm lazy enough that I was in no rush to dig in and replace it, but since I have the instrument panel out in the middle of repairs from the crash, I should take care of it. I just figured that I've had better luck with led's in two of my cars and they use less wattage compared to the regular lights. I'm not going blue, but I'll probably go bright white.

Well I have to admit, I keep thinking about the Warhawk shark mouth on bare panel motif for my rc51.. Unfortunately right now, I'm working on returning my VFR to a pristine appearance. To that end I think I'm going to do it in a phantom black pearl scheme (that was not available on the NA market in 2001). But my givi's are another story, I need to refinish them, so I was thinking satin black with low vis red markings, and some ghost "into the blue" logos.

While I have the Meters out of the bike, I'm going to change the bulbs for LED's I found the printed copy of KPerham's led list, which seems to have been lost. I notice that he says not to use LEDs for the FI light and the turn signal indicators. Did this ever get sorted out?? Also does using a non-load sensitive flasher solve the problem.

Hey Rob, what did you ever do with the stock gas cap? Mine has snapped off the trim ring, so, I get to swap my lock set over to another one. If you still have yours, how much do you want for it. PM me, before I buy the 2001 on Ebay in delaware for parts.

They are very expensive, even used. Well, I'm looking at a single mirror at least and some new extenders this time.. So if its not a whole lot more than a couple of Honda mirrors and ugly, chunky extenders then I'd go for it.. I mean I'm seeing mirrors for 83 on ebay. two of them would only be a couple bucks more per side than oem's mirrors and extenders. Its right up there with not putting the break the plastic in a tip over dumbo signals back on.

Okay you got me now, will those BMW mirrors really fit on the 5th gens? I need a mirror thanks to going down Saturday and I'm tired of looking at my elbows and bags.

Nice work, I do like the gear indicator as it might keep me from hunting for that 7th gear on long slab rides. But that's just another farkle that will go on the never ending list.

You bought a Harley????? :laughing6-hehe: nope, just no garage. My garage is an utter mess and will be even worse if I have to put Alex's Gs700 back into storage. Paging Timmy, Paging Timmy. Check your PM's Timmy

Ebay super duper deal. $416.00 for the pair! I got them from LPUSA on Ebay, which is Lockhart Phillips outlet for whatever is gathering dust on the shelves at their warehouse. Actually, the rotors pictured in the auction were the "regular" galfer wave rotors like this: When they arrived, I found they were the "superbike" wave rotors like this: So I wasn't complaining. See the way my luck works is the auction would have shown the superbike ones and then I would have gotten shipped the regular ones. How bad was the pulsing of the Chinese ones Rob??

Well since the wonderful state of NJ has backed away from annual safety inspections, I've pretty much run out of reasons not to do an HID conversion on my 5th gen. I like the latch and delay relays of tightwads setup, but I have to admit, I'm considering a mini-projector based swap. How about that one of them Tightwad?

Not yet - me and Kostritzer were giving suggestions on how to go about it locally. I mean, heck I've got an oscilloscope and low amp current probe but I'm a bit far away. :) Oh yeah, you mentioned a small inexpensive oscilloscope didn't you. Can you shoot me a PM with the brand and if possible a link of a vendor to purchase it from? The shop ones I keep seeing are way beyond the tool budget for now.

Hang on. What you're saying means that you know that over-charging the primary coil results in a higher voltage in the secondary winding. Which also means that we're assuming that over-charging the coil is cool. Shouldn't we focus on confirming that's fine first, and then worry about the spark gap adjustment to compensate for the higher voltage? I wasn't suggesting overcharging the primary. I thought that Scott had already checked the peak primary voltage and current. Yes lets make sure that the primary is operating at the correct current. Then look at the spark gap to peak the secondary windings output. If I've jumped ahead, sorry my bad... My point was that Scott has changed the coil, so he has to look at what he has on the VFR, not what the coil is supposed to work with on the GSXR.

Never mind what the GSXR uses for a plug gap!! IF you test one of these COP's connected to the VFR, what does the spark look like?? Is it bright blue white with a vicious snap?

Just a thought here, mostly directed to rangerscott69 Did you change the spark plug gap at all? the lower resistance in the primary winding of the COP will increase the potential high voltage in the secondary coil. If you don't open up the spark plug gap, your going to get a long yellowish buzzing spark, which you don't want. You want to open up that gap a few thousands (I'd try steps of .002"), to get that spark back to a nice bright blue white arc that "snaps". I see it all the time with the younger guys in my car clubs. The get new heavy duty COP's with low resistance primary windings and then complain that their rides are sluggish. The ford/lincoln guys particularly seem to suffer from this as OEM ford COP's are crap.

Well now that NJ has stopped doing annual safety testing, I will probably take the plunge and go to HID as cash allows. I might follow JZH and do the bi-xenons on the 5th gen, but I will still need the relays from tightwad's site. In the mean time though, I'll keep on going with the Hoen's.