SEBSPEED

Lose the tailbag, it'll hurt the most in the twisties. To me, a tankbag is essential, saddlebags optional. I swear by Space Saver bags for packing clothes for a trip. Waterproof, and really do save lots of space.

Finally got through and paid for the, ahem - uh, what am I paying for??? $45 to find out the tube is not bent? Hmm. Great. Now I have to check the slider. Good thing I have a bike to ride, or something(s) would be flying in the air getting broken right now. $7 to ship the tube to PA via USPS, $27 for labor, $15.xx for them to ship back via UPS, plus $1.73 for tax. Effing wonderful. And I don't know what the problem is, yet. I had put the edge of a metal part on it when I suspected it was bent, and it looked like it was out. Mike Hartman @ GMD Computrack(located in the North American Warhorse dealership in Scranton, PA), says it's well within tolerance. ??????????????????????????

Check out the "More fun" tab on that site, there is a yellow 6th gen in the pics!!

Just put it on today, the parts are all used, not new. I hate buying used electrics but this seemed like to good of a deal. Seems like it's all working but needs some tweaking. Once the headers go on, I have a custom map from the PO to try, as well as Jason's. Not sure if Stephane ever posted his. Or maybe I'll have to get my own big $$ tuning done so that it's correct for my altitude, humidity, sock color, etc etc.

I got a set of catless headers with PC3 and the Dynojet resistors. I put the resistors and the PC in today, the resistors have a factory-style plug, so yes, the fit is good. No idiot lights on the dash, so I assume they are working...? I hate working on elec"tricks", but I do own a voltmeter, if someone cares to explain a test to me. Won't get to it till tomorrow after work though.

Anyone else notice a funk between 3-5k rpms running this map? I just put it in, running Staintunes, Dynojet O2 elims, and stock filter(probably dirty at 16k mi). On startup, got some afterfire with no throttle application(popping right off the bat, little smoke), smoothed out after a couple small tugs on the grip. Noticed the extra noise too, seems a couple db louder??(not that there's anything wrong w/ that!) Out on the road (50 deg F), seems to pull better, pulls straight through VTEC @ 7k(never had a problem w/ it before, but I could feel the dip, seems to be gone now), HOWEVER - my bike was always real smooth at any rpm, roll the gas to any number, hold it, rpms stay put, no surging/on-off power feel. Now, I bring it to 3.5/4.5/5k(cruising rpm), and I have surging. Feels like sh-t. Almost feels like a really loose chain, but my chain is fine... Maybe the map is tuned for this surging that I never had, and now I get the opposite effect?? I'll ride it to work tomorrow, then I'm going to try the baseline map off Dynojet's site and try that. Just curious to know if someone else had that happen. I love the PC in my F4i, my favorite part is that the on/off feel from 0 throttle position is gone(map from their site for F4i/K&N/Hindle slip-on), and smooth, direct throttle response throughout the rpm range. That's all I was hoping for on the VFR, I don't mind the VTEC transition. Surging sucks!!

Well, I got my Avon Storms mounted on the wheels! The front looks sweet, but the rear, not so much. Using the 160/70 series tire really looks funky... Got the swingarm on the bike today, I had to bead blast and paint a few more parts like the suspension linkages before I could put it on. once it was in, I stuck the rear wheel and tire under the bike, and confirmed my fear. Right now, it looks like ass. The tire is huge, really tall, it looks like a truck tire in there! Hopefully, once the front end goes together, it will be more in proportion and won't look too bad. Maybe I'm just so used to seeing the bare frame sitting there on its own... The fork tube is still with GMD Computrack. I did speak to Mike Hartman, he received it and it is fixable, but they were closed today when I tried to call and check on it. Hopefully I'll find out more tomorrow.

Like an unfinished hot rod? :fing02: Where's my dollar?!? :beer: :goofy:

Love the blue, but too much white IMO. Looks like a pair of basketball shoes I used to own... Where'r the front signals? Inside the headlight?

So you're going straight from the rear m/c to the caliper? Get (1) 601103, and (1) straight banjo like you've shown in you second pic. When you run the new line out of the bottom of the swingarm, you will have a straight shot at the caliper, no need for an angled piece. Straight is cheaper too! :beer:

Any other questions, let me know!

Geez, that second pic doesn't look too good. Got a side shot? :unsure:

Do yourself a favor and put that pic on the calendar cover this year!

Glad you mentioned that, because I forgot to. That's another case of "next time I'll know better". You'd almost have to remove the swingarm and use a milling machine to make a perfect hole at the right angle, but it could be done not-quite-so-nicely with a carbide burr on a straight die grinder, or crudely by drilling the hole, then switching to a smaller bit and angling it into the hole while drilling. There is plenty of slack in the hose inside the arm, and enough room inside to where the bend isn't as sharp as you may think. VFRCAPN - Mike, take a look at your stock chainguard. How many fastener locations does it have? The VTEC has four, I would think they are the same part number? The entrance hole for the lines in this mod is the inside forward chainguard mount hole(just in behind the shock, in relation to the bike).

:fing02: :goofy:

Well, the fork is in the hands of the USPS right now, on it's way to GMD Computrack in Scranton, Pennsylvania. Here's a pic of the parts for my oil line mod: Gotta get off this darn pc now and go do some work... :fing02:

Steve's solution to the shorter chainguard: :goofy: Here's a pic of the bulk line and the heat shrink tubing: The heat shrink tubing is 3/8" black polyolefin.

Here's an update for those of you wondering about foul weather coverage. The fender is still doing its job, just getting a little more spray, but not much more. Pics were taken after Steve rode 4hrs on wet roads to get to my house for his brake line mod:

You forgot to mention we went for a ride! :fing02:

Here's the before and (almost) after pics of the chainguard:

Steve, you beat me to the punch. Still trying to upload your supersize images and resize them!! :laugh: I coulda sworn I got all the burrs outta there... problem is, the swingarm is over 1/4" thick in that spot, makes it hard to get inside that 1/2" hole to deburr! Forgot I had an "inanout" tool here. :blush: More pics are coming, now everyone nows what the heck the brake bleeding thread was about! LOL! As also described in this thread: Click Here Steve (KeystoneVFR) contacted me about wanting to clean up the look of the rear of his bike by routing the brake lines through the swingarm. I suggested that he use aftermarket stainless steel lines and fittings for a few reasons. - they perform better than stock. - they're cheaper than stock(both stock lines from RonAyers cost ~$85, total cost of our lines and fittings was ~$75). - there are options for line colors and fittings to suit different looks/themes. - more importantly, they are smaller in diameter than the stock lines, meaning they could be routed through smaller holes(less material removed from the swingarm). The biggest "pro" to going with the stainless lines and personally assembling them, is that it allows for the smallest possible holes in the swingarm. The two fittings that connect to the bike are installed on two line ends, and attached to the bike. The lines are then routed through one of the factory chainguard locations(slightly enlarged), and through to the back of the swingarm. One line will come out of an existing hole that is slightly enlarged to 1/2". The other is routed out of a new 1/2" hole drilled 1" forward of the existing hole. The banjos ends are then connected to the ends of the lines, and bolted to the caliper. Start by getting the bike in a secure position with the rear wheel off the ground. You can probably get away with using the centerstand for this. I put Steve's bike on a lift, and locked the front wheel in, then put a scissor jack under the headers. Next remove the rear wheel, the footrest, and the chainguard. Next you will empty the rear brake reservoir and then bleed the rear caliper to get the fluid out, so you can remove the stock brake lines without making a mess. Have a roll of shop towels and some soapy water handy in case you do. Brake fluid is nasty stuff, and will eat your paint! I use rinsed-out milk and water jugs as catch-alls for this kind of stuff. Remove the banjo bolts at the caliper: Then the other ends on the bike. One is the block under the seat, use a 10mm wrench: The other is a banjo at the PC valve up by the battery(the one with the bleeder nipple on top). Remove the lines from the bike. Now is a good time to remove the bracket from under the hub locking bolt: Also a good time to clean your swingarm! Next you'll need to drop the swingarm down to allow clearance for your drill. Do so by removing the triangle plates that connect the swingarm, shock, and dogbone linkage: Now the fun really begins. Get out you favorite power tool and open the forward inside chainguard mount hole to 5/8". I got that number by measuring the diameter of the SS hose, multiplying by 2, and adding a little wiggle room. For this I used two Unibit step drills. First to 1/2", then 5/8". Come to think of it, I may have gone one size over 5/8". You will have to drill and see. Check by inserting two pieces of hose side by side and ensure that they will be allowed movement with binding or hanging up on the edges of the hole. Then prop the swingarm up nice and high wit ha box or a jack, and find the existing hole at rear underside of the arm, by the hub. Open that hole to 1/2". Then measure ~1" forward of that hole, and in the middle of the flat area of the arm, drill another 1/2" hole. I started by drilling with a #30(1/8") aircraft length drill(6"), then popped the unibit back in and opened to 1/2". **Use a deburring tool or whatever you've got and clean the edges of the holes, inside and out. Run your pinky around the edges. If it gets cut, guess what? so will your new lines... **I am also investigating an extra step to remove the drill chips from inside the arm, may have to pull the hub for this mod, to get a vacuum hose in there. I had bought a 20' length of -3 hose(it's also available by the foot), so at this point I pulled the roll out and measured a length of it to the shorter of the two factory lines. Then I held it to the bike to mock the routing and adjusted the length by eye a bit, leaving a few inches excess, and cut it to length. I attached the flared fitting adapter, which adapts the flared fitting on the bike(that used to go into the block) to the -3 hose on the other side. Attached that to the bike. Then(this is important!!) I made a small cut in the clear coating on the hose, at the caliper end, and tied about a foot of 150lb test fishing line to the end of the hose. Here's were you might start banging your head on the wall with this project. You have to push the line into the big hole at the front of the arm: ...And fish it out through one of the small holes you drilled on the other end: This can take a few minutes(!!), so be patient. Steve helped me do this, my initial idea had been to use my handy flexible grabber tool, but it wasn't doing the trick, so we switched to a piece of wire and pliers... Repeat for the other line. Be liberal when measuring the hose length. Both of these hoses ended up shorter than the stock lines, so buy at least that amount of hose to start with. Next, trim your lines to length, with the swingarm in its lowest position(all the way down)! If you don't do this, your lines won't be long enough, and something very bad will happen! Attach the banjo fittings to the hose ends, and install them (with new crush washers) on the caliper. Steve was going for the stealth look, so we added some heat shrink tubing before attaching the banjos. Bleed the brakes and be done! :fing02: *One last note* I do not consider Steve's project 100% complete yet, I am sourcing 3 black plastic plugs(similar to a steering stem plug) to install in the drilled holes. These will act as guides and guard the hoses from the edges of the holes. So in the future, I would add those plugs to this parts list - Parts list: - 6000031 Earl's -3 hose, coated (approx. 9', $26.91) - 640603 Earl's -3 Straight female 10mm x 1.0mm IF(inverted flare) adapter, steel (QTY 1, $9.36) - 601103 Earl's 20 degree -3 side non-adjustable banjo; steel (QTY 2, $8.24ea) - 601203 Earl's 20 degree -3 side adjustable banjo, steel ( QTY 1, $11.72ea) If I had to do this again, I would use (1) 601103 non-adjustable banjo at the PCV valve, and (2) -3 straight banjos at the caliper. In their new routing positions, the side bend banjos are not required at the caliper. This would bring the cost down by a few bucks. Total as listed above, ~$75. I do not have the exact lengths of the hoses we cut, as they were in the swingarm when we trimmed them, and were NOT taking them back out to measure!! 9' is a good safe estimate. I had bought 20', so I could use the rest on my VF750 project(brake and clutch lines), I can measure what I have left and the pieces we cut off to get a better idea, assuming that the bulk hose was cut to exactly 20'. The fittings are available in various anodized colors like blue, black, and red(or a mix of colors), at a higher cost. (Almost double, but they sure look cool!)

Looks good, but I put more than 1000 miles on my bike in a month! You can also paint a steel sprocket any color you like! :beer:

They will look great, but steel sprockets last 3 times longer.

If it was easy, everyone would do it!! Dig in man! :rolleyes:

ps - why does your rear wheel look cock-eyed in the pic with the frame? Looks like you have the s/a bolted in? And, if that's not an RC swingarm, you better give up how you converted to single nut... !!