SEBSPEED

Last I heard, more buyers were needed to make the 8g system happen.

I have (2) final sets left. There will be no more, at least not of this design. Bright (bare milled) or brushed finish, $158 shipped in the US or $150 + actual shipping worldwide

Nice work

I fabricated them from scratch, from aluminum stock.

To be fair, I've seen your watch band size and IIRC your header could also wear your watch...

Sorry to hear about the trouble with the shop, that sucks. That seems to be a part I could produce. If a solution isn't found by the time I get my 8th gen headers on my bike, I'll be able to offer whatever part I make for myself to those that still need them.

There aren't many of us, I kinda planted that seed... Happy to, will let you know as the development progresses. I plan to add not just a 3rd coolant radiator, but also a larger relocated engine oil cooler and a cooler for the SC oil. Cheaper, likely yes, but absolutely harder to package and will only spool quickly if you use one very small turbo or one turbo for each bank. Turbos need to be placed as close as possible to the exhaust ports and obviously this is an issue with a V4. Packaging 1 in a fully faired VFR would be very challenging and twins you can pretty much forget about unless you go with a wild streetfighter theme. I concur. Not just questionable merges, but a not-so-well-flowing assortment of seam welded steel stampings which have replacing actual tubing. My hope is that the new header is NOT a duplication of these merges, but rather mostly the same as the 5/6 with the exception of the front downtubes, and obviously any minor fit changes needed to be usable on the 8th gen bike.

6th would be ideal, but fit to a 5th would suffice for my purposes, which is to run a lower front rad on my Torocharged 6th gen.

I understand that I might be asking a lot here... but is there a chance of doing a test fit of the new 8th gen header prototype on a 6th gen before they go into production?

Following

That's looking pretty darn good right there!

I can hardly wait for the 8th gen version data to drop, very exciting!

I totally agree with you re: good value as a replacement system. Also, I am thankful for the efforts made to obtain & provide info! All I meant with my comment was that the additional data point could have put the kibosh on any further speculation re: overall performance. I'm a sucker for data

I really was hoping to see a before & after chart comparison, that would have sealed the deal.

Kudos for the effort men... Wow to the PCV dyno chart... yikes A question for clarity's sake - was the PC3 connected for Run File 14 or no?

IIRC, the vertical alignment was off on my 4th gen TBR also.

A few wraps of Nashua foil tape around the pipe that is too small would be an effective temporary fix. Not too hard to scrape off with a razor blade later, replace with sealant when timing is better.

Thanks. I actually used a cordless drill. The bar is hollow, if you work up to the final size in small increments it goes quick and easy.

I've drilled out the ends of aluminum bars before to fit parts like bar ends and turn signals.

Possibly. Have you tried it?

Do you have room to flip those risers 180° to move the bar forward, or will the bar then foul the forks?

I've also found the mounting location of the bar in relation to the forks and stem changes road feel quite a bit. IMO the LSL kit mounts them too far back, almost directly over the stem center. What I found feels best is when the bar center is mounted forward of the stem center by 60-75% of the total offset distance. On standard VFR triples that would be 10-15mm back from the fork centerline. Mounting closer to the axle gives more direct feedback and feels lighter.

The bars on the GS look to be a foot higher than the seat, you're not gonna be able to pull that off on the VFR and keep the fairing. I had a vintage K&N Superbike bar on my CB900. After the old guy ran me over, I replaced them with an Emgo Superbike bar and they feel the same as the old ones. MX bars offer more options. My blue streetfighter you rode has a "CR Low" bend, it's available in a High version too. Quite a bit wider than the street bars though.

You can weld either bung to the stainless header, ss to ss would be preferred with ss filler rod. Could also weld the mild steel bung to the header using ss rod or silicon bronze brazing wire.