Gaz66

Same process applies regardless, I've edited my post to reflect this. 👍

Do u really believe a gizmo exists that can replace a copper wiring loom? I bet your motor runs on fairy dust instead of petrol.

Late Honda CBR600F3's circa 1995-1998 share same 41mm fork diameter, as do VFR750's they will fit a 5th Gen 800's forks, bar rise may be a bit lower than a stock 5th Gen bars, CBR bars are plentiful on eBay, location pin on bar clamp may not be in the same orientation as 5th Gen bars, it'll allow more range of adjustment if removed, race bikes mostly don't use a locating pin & they have far more stress put thru the bars than any road bike. Have u searched eBay for 5th Gen bars? Sure I've a few sets on sale recently, used bars are a risk IMHO as they've likely come from a crashed bike.

Captain 80's posted a link to a15yr old thread, not much help on this occasion as Honda (NTC) stat prices have shot up 3 fold here in the UK, probly same across the pond in USA/Canada etc? From my hrs of searching, thru part screens & manufacturer dimensions, it looks like the OEM stat that (NTC) not Honda have made under licence for Honda is specifically for Honda bikes, yes a few other Honda models use this same 82 degree (NTC) stat, no car stat has these exact dimensions from my searching. Nearest I can find is listed for certain year Honda Jazz's it's an offset centre, all dimensions match apart from the larger top flange is 10mm greater in diameter, it also has a jiggle pin, but missing the 4 bypass holes in the smaller plate on the bottom, easily drilled, so no big deal, only concern is I can't find any good enough pics to verify the jiggle pin is close enough to the stats centre to allow it to be ground down enough to fit the VFRs stat housing. Can't find a dimension correct stat in 82 degrees, they're 78 degrees for the above Jazz stat & its from a known manufacturer, approx 1/7th of the price of a NTC Honda stat, so it's potentially usable, albeit a bit of grinding & drilling & it opens 4 degrees earlier, may be a plus for hotter climates. Here in the UK, on sale at £10, where as the ridiculously over priced Honda (NTC) stat is £73 + shipping from a UK Honda dealer, there are other Gen Honda stats available from Honda specialists like (Dave Silvers UK) at around £50- £60 but that's still 5-6 times the sale price Honda charge. I can't justify paying £50 plus for a stat, it's just crazy, when car stats are £10-£15, they're no different, just different dimensions. So I'm going to order the £10 Jazz listed stat & see if it's worth modifying & check if it'll work withing the VFR's stat housing. I'll update this thread if I'm successful or not. Keep it shiny up guys. Rgds Gaz (UK)

Yep, totally agree, flush with fresh Dot 4 at least every 12mths. Treat new Dot 4 like it's Nitroglycerin, never shake it, if u drop a bottle it'll be full of micro bubbles, so best not to use it for a few days. Brand is irrelevant, Dot 4 is Dot 4 ... nasty toxic shit, use nitrile gloves, avoid latex, Dot 4 rots latex in minutes. Dot 4 destroys paint work, so best to cover bike as much as poss with a plastic sheet of some kind too. Use with caution, any spills, wash it off with lots of cold water. Personally I flush my clutch every 6mths, brakes every year.

Awesome info, many thanks "vfrgiving". Kind Rgds Gaz (UK)👍

Thanks for all the replies on this 5th Gen Thermostat topic. I thought it may had been looked into & put to bed at some point in the past. I wasn't doing this cos I'm cheap, I was genuinely looking for a cheaper solution that would benefit us all. I don't need a new stat at present, bike's running mint & tucked away until spring, sure I'll need a stat at some point tho. In the UK for some weird reason, bike specific stats are quite pricey for what is essentially nothing more special than a car stat albeit in different dimensions. Yes my Yellow 5th Gen is a beaut, thanks for the kind comments.👍 If anything promising comes up, I'll share my findings with forum.

Hi Peeps. I'm trying to source a stat from other vehicles that may fit our 5th Gen's? Makes no logical sense why a bike stat should cost 3-4 times the cost of a car stat. Honda Jazz stat looks very similar apart from the 4 missing bypass holes in the base plate, but this can be easily rectified. I don't have a spare OEM stat to take pics & measurements from at this time. Does anyone have a knackered OEM stat to post up pics & exact dimensions from? Cheers

Hi Terry. Cheers for the input, pyramid stuff is moulded a bit different from this Carbon affair I have. I've since discovered that Harris don't fabricate them at all, they just farm the orders out, maybe why mine's a bit of a different design to Bren's pics in his gallery, his pics have given me insight into what kinda bracket needs fabricating, which is close to what I imagined, always helps to see stuff for real, before diving in with the jigsaw. Cheers to Terry & Bren for their input👍

Hi Peeps. Long time biker here, 40 plus yrs riding. Own a 1999 5th Gen (Pearl Yellow) love it. Weathers crap here in the UK, so it's time for a few more mods while bike's off the road over winter, done a few mods to date. Junked "Pair Valve" system, CNC blanking caps fitted. K&N air filter. Iridium plugs. Coil on plug mod to come, all parts in stock. Full refurb of OEM exhaust system + Viper race can, plan to wrap the headers at some point (Titanium cloth) in stock. Full strip/service of brakes, new master cyl service kits, new clutch master/slave service kits. No plan to junk linked brakes, I quite like em, had a few Honda's with linked systems. Engine serviced. Cooling system serviced. Set starter valves (correctly) big improvement below 3,000rpm. ZX10R rear shock mod, all parts in stock, mod done, just needs fitting onto bike. Front fork service yet to do, considering sourcing CBR600f3 internals to gain rebound damping control, good parts are hard to find in the UK. Rethal bar mod to do, modified a spare top yoke to take FZS1000 bar mounts, all parts now painted & in stock, inc ST1300 throttle cables (£15 ebay). Owned this bike a couple of yrs, done a few sensible mods to date, some yet to complete. Recently acquired an, as new Harris Carbon hugger for a 5th Gen ... It's a super lightweight bit of kit, very thin Carbon fibre, weighs nothing, but it's very flimsy & came without a fitting kit, it's the type that fits over the OEM chain guard/brake hose section, single mounting hols that matches up to the OEM chain guard mount on the swinger just in front of the rear sprocket, but no other brackets of any kind to mount the hugger section from flopping around. Hugger has 2 holes cut into the arch of the hugger sort of behind the rear foot rest hanger area, more biased to the right side/ exhaust can side, looks like there should be some rubber grommet affair that takes two top hat bushes & some form of bracket that bolts under the hugger to these mounts & down to the swinger somewhere, no holes in the swinger that I can see would be of use to mount it to. Suppose I could drill the swinger & install a thread crimp mount to bolt a bracket to, but reluctant to drill this swinger if there's a better option. I'm able to fab up an alloy bracket, got some 3mm chequer plate in the garage doing nothing, just wondering if anyone has any pics of the correct brackets so I can get a sense of what needs fabricating. All info is appreciated. Rgds Gaz (UK)

Hi Tirso. Agreed, it's a pain in the ass when starter valve plungers get stuck, if the bike is new to you, it pays to drop the throttle body off for a good wash out, it's not uncommon for starter valve plungers to be gummed up with dirt, it's surprising how much crap gets past the air filter, as you'll see when cleaning out the throttle butterflies & bores, also a good time to pull the injectors & blast em thru with some Holts EGR cleaner in a spray can, far more aggressive than any carb cleaner, it's nasty smelly stuff, I've yet to find anything more effective to blast thru injectors, most won't have the applicable injector pulsing tool, so just use a 9V (PP3) torch battery, 2 lengths of wire with crimps fitted rig a tight fitting hose over injector inlet, & squirt EGR solvent thru while pulsing On/Off on the 9v battery, if spray pattern won't come good, after a few squirts, leave em vertical & soaking with EGR cleaner inside for half hr & try again, never failed using this method, avoid EGR cleaner on skin/eyes/clothes/paint etc. Talking of Carbtune vac balance tool, I don't rate them personally ... can't see how you can synch one tube with another, they're a rough adjustment at best, old style dial vac gauges are cheap nowadays & actually more than up to the job of synching carbs/throttle bodies etc, Carb-tunes are silly money IMHO, you can spend whole lotta cash on higher spec oil filled dial units too, they're no more accurate than the cheaper dry gauges for this job, just synch all 4 gauges on the same vac port & you're good to go, used this type for the last 40+ yrs on my own & customers bikes, never had any issue. Electronic versions are now readily available at not silly money, they were crazy money up until a few yrs ago as the tool was aimed at the pro-mechanics market, electronics are the way forward, but like I've stated above, old Skool is all that's required for this synch job.

Hi New member here. My experience of starter valves being out of spec is rough low rpm running, snatchy throttle response & poor fuel economy. You wouldn't think a simple adjustment would make much difference, but it really does transform the low rpm below 3,000rpm. If you see no needle movement on you vac gauges from an adjustment, it's possible one or more of the starter valve plungers may be sticking within its bore. What seems to not get discussed on this matter is that the old style vac gauges that most have must be synched to each other before any adjustments are attempted on the bike or any adjustments made are pretty much irrelevant. It's simple process to adjust a 5th Gen, long nosed pliers are sufficient if a 7mm spanner isn't available, adjusters take little effort to flick them to the next index point, there's no fine adjustment as the valve heads use tiny tapered ramps to click to the next index point, so any adjustments are a compromise ... "Pair" system needs to be blanked off prior to adjustment, may as well pull the whole system out as it does nothing for performance or fuel economy.