Presson

Not clear what you mean by I noticed that it started really easy with no difficulty. then attempted it the second time round another day and it was really difficult I had to apply the throttle to keep it going Was the first attempt before or after your SV synch work? Was the second time another day after your SV synch work? Have you checked the MAP? If so what was the result? Have you checked the ECT? If so what was the result?

Have you done the SV synch? Which needs to be done with the engine fully warm You could check the MAP; the procedure is in the manual

No harm in checking the TPS. However, you describe normal operations once warm so as Grum suggests, it is probably worth investigating the MAP and ECT sensors.

Hi Grum. PM sent

Has anyone got PDF version in colour of the 8 Gen wiring diagrams? Planning to get the full 8 Gen workshop manual printed and spiral bound, hopefully on wipe clean paper. Getting a little fed up of scrolling on a tiny screen, or is it my eyes...😵‍💫

Anyone know if SV imbalance/ out of synch causes rough cold starting and a tendency to die on throttle before fully warm? This may be the issue...

Best not to dismantle the wax unit. Clean it up with wd40 and a brush - an old toothbrush perhaps. Clean the linkages on both intake banks.

Ok, so it is beginning to look like condensation rather than anything more concerning at this point. As Captain 80s says, a couple of decent rides, 45 mins to 1 hour, and check how things look. Your report on idle sounds about right. You will know from your previous VFR that honda made them idle high to properly warm up before settling down. If the bike has been sat idle for a time some action will sort me any minor issues out. Let us know how you get on.

Hmm, other opinions needed Tom. Looking at that photo: a. The oil level is just above minimum and a water oil emulsion makes up the rest to the full mark. In cars that would probably indicate a break in the head gasket - not sure about a VFR. Or b. The oil level is higher but the sight glass itself is discoloured and there's a bit of condensation which would not be unusual for a bike that's been sitting over winter. It also looks as though the crankcase has been repainted judging by the poor masking on the sight glass. I think if it was my bike, I would check the coolant level and condition ( hopefully no emulsion in the reservoir), do an oil change and then monitor both over several rides. If the coolant level changes and the oil ends up emulsified then you know you've got a gasket or seal that's failed. Others may have better ideas. Incidentally, on the starting and idle issue you didn't say what rpm the warm idle settled at. For an 8 Gen it should be around 1250 - 1300 iirc. I suspect it's the same for yours

Hi Tom. Skids had a relatively similar issue with his 5th Gen recently. The whole thread is here but ultimately the problem was caused by the wax unit linkage sticking and failing to operate the starter valves correctly. I believe a thoroughly good clean up without disassembly cured the issue. Worth a try; yours (correctly circled in red) does look rather gunky

Hey VFR78, any thoughts or pointers on installing the rear lines on your 8Gen? When I looked, it seemed to require taking half the rear end apart and I thus thought I'd rather be riding.

I did wonder if a degree of colour blindness might be at play here. That would certainly put a different colour on it; if you'll excuse the pun. Good luck 🤞

Electrical fault finding can be very frustrating particularly if ( like me) one is not that experienced at it. That's why many of us use the experts on this site. However, it is really important to follow the steps of advice exactly and report back findings on those steps as requested. That's also the better way to learn because the approach has logical structure. Missing out bits, giving half answers or introducing new stuff makes having the conversation frustrating or downright infuriating. We're all human and everyone offering help on here is genuinely interested in getting a fellow biker back on the road. But being frustrated by half answers will test anyone's patience eventually. I do hope you get this sorted. Cheers!

Here's the link to my efforts. The result photos and points to note are towards the bottom of the thread .

For some reason I am unable to upload a photo today. For the brake line mount on the RHS of the mudguard, I used a longer bolt and a 8-10mm section of aluminium or brass tubing to stand the line away from the plastic. The original clip for the ABS line was reused but bent slightly so the ABS line rubber grommet is held by the clip on the outside and pressed against the new line 3 way connector on the inner side. Hope all that helps.