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About Noncarborundum

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    Local Racer

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  • In My Garage:
    1999 Honda VFR 800

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  1. I'd try soaking the seams with some PB Blaster and let it sit overnight, hit it with some heat again, repeat. 3rd day you may be able twist and shout it off. Just my 20 cents (adjusted for inflation).
  2. I'm posting here because I trust the enthusiasts in this forum whom I find very knowledgeable. I have several bikes in my stable, one of which is of course a 5th Gen VFR. One of the others is the subject, a 2002 Yamaha V Star Silverado equipped with saddle bags and windscreen. Technically, it's a V Star 650 Classic. The group I'm riding with are riding with be riding a VFR 1200, Kawasaki 650 Versys, KTM 650 and a couple of others TBD. Since the V Star is set up for touring with the bags and windscreen, I have chosen this machine to take on the trip. Okay, here's my concern; we will be riding about 80 to 85mph and even though I've added a Delkevic header kit, rejetted the carbs and a K&N filter, the V Star is at 82% of redline at 85mph and doesn't seem to like that speed. It really needs a 6th gear, but unfortunately, the Yamaha design team overlooked that extra cog. All the V Star forums I've visited have stated that the V Star is happy to rev all day at 85 mph. I can't buy in to that. The bike seems like it is not happy at that speed, especially for days on end. I've adjusted the valves on the tight side as I believe an adjustment on the loose side will pound the valve seats into submission at that kind of RPM. Again, the V Star forums state that the mill is happy to rev that high all day with no problem. When I'm riding the machine at 85mph, there is little left for any roll on "power" should I need to power out of a situation. I'm concerned about running any factory mill this hard for so long. The maintenance of this bike has been top notch and I've even gone to the extreme of rebuilding the final drive (the Achilles Heel for the bike as splines tend to need lubed with Honda molybendenum assembly grease frequently for serviceability). Taking another bike out of my stable is really not an option for reasons beyond the scope of this post. Bottom line is that I'd be running about 5900 RPM @ 85mph with a rev limited 7200 RPM red line. I'm definitely going to need earplugs and may even have to JB Weld my teeth to my jaws because the vibration at this speed is significant. I'm up for it, is this V Star 650 up for it? I just turned 12000 miles on the bike this evening while shaking it down (no pun intended). Opinions and questions are most greatly appreciated from you guys who are the gurus of cycling. Thanks in advance for your input. Leaving Cleveland, Ohio on 23 June to Asheville, NC. That is all. http://people.delphiforums.com/az1100custmn/YamahaSpeedCalculator.htm
  3. No way I'm letting someone else wrench on my bike. No way I'm deviating from the maintenance schedules per Honda. I paid, in part, for that engineered maintenance schedule created by Honda. If I have to spend $$$ for a tool or tools that I don't have and will only use once, so be it. That's the price for peace of mind. I look at something like adjusting the valves as curriculum for a technical collage course (university of Hard Knocks, you know) and treat as such with research. I'm better afterwards on several accounts, including keeping my mind as fresh as possible for a 61 year old processor. The worst case scenario is that the valves, not a single one, needed adjustment, and I spent some money that I didn't need to spend, but what an education and experience! I guess that it comes down to pride of ownership and acceptance of a pleasant (to me) challenge. That is all. Semper Fi
  4. I secured an adjustable side stand from Soupy's (I think). Nice aluminum job. Gives me more lean, especially after lowering the bike a bit. Much better, and a high quality unit.
  5. I am very short in stature with a 29'' inseam which leaves me on the tips of my toes (barely) at stop lights. I hate that. I bought a Soupy's adjustable lowering link and I lowered my 5th Gen an 1 3/16"s. I know I'm giving up lean clearance, but that's okay; I'm no Freddie Spencer.
  6. Per the title, I bought one and it's a little too quiet for my taste. I've considered repacking it with less material, but I've also considered the "I should just leave it alone." I don't want it squid loud, and I don't want to spoil the cam gear whine. Input, please and thank you.
  7. I regularly use Seafoam in all my vehicles. The objective is to keep the intake valves free from oily deposits as best I can, without the flapper/PAIR mods. Yes, I'd love to witness the intake honk derived from said disablement of the former and latter, but I just don't want to queer the set up unless there is a gob of increased bhp/torque to be had. Since there doesn't appear to be, I'm leaving it alone. To each his own, except for Seafoam. Use it regularly, and you and your mill will be *happy*. Just my opinion which means nothing to anyone but me.
  8. Probably. Lean due to the injectors not properly atomizing the A/F mixture. I let a bike sit for twenty years in another State. Long story. Anyhow, the point being, sitting for a long time w/out properly preparing for storage takes a significant toll on the fuel delivery system.
  9. Go to Autozone or whatnot and get a bottle . It's a fuel additive. It will clean varnish deposits that have likely built up in the injectors and rails. Best of all, it works. I use it on a regular basis. I have my own concoction of Seafoam, Marvels Mystery Oil, and Stabil. The Seafoam is great stuff.
  10. Yes, it's a trick mod that I seriously must consider. The plastic sides are like new. I have the PO's original plastic that is marred, so in theory, I could hack those up and learn from my mistakes. I like the idea of a subtle change with enhanced range. The upside of all this is that I have a little time to think it over. I really appreciate all the input. Thanks, much.
  11. So, you can shim out the body work (left, right, front) and not have to hack away at the fairing plastic? I can't see the pics posted, so I'm flying blind here. Thanks for the help.
  12. Newbie here; just acquired a '99 and the fuel tank has a major dent in it. I don't want to go the Bondo/re-spray route. I cannot source a replacement tank that I would be satisfied with (sigh). I didn't think it would be a big deal to find a NOS tank, but I finally figured out that they must be clean out of stock. I can find NOS 6th Gen tanks, so, what kind of fabricating (if any) is required to swap? Thanks in advance for tips, pics and advice.
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