kaldek

Hi folks, I'm about to fit the complete transmission Detent Star Kit to my '02 VFR and the Factory Pro instructions say to test the installation. They say "keep the clutch transmission shaft from turning and slowly turn the rear wheel. Shift through the gears to verify correct installation". What the hell is a "clutch transmission shaft"? Do they mean the output shaft? Why would I keep that from turning if I'm going through the gears?

Confirmed, sir! The replacement 2006 injectors were given to a reputable car performance workshop and cleaned three times, resulting in matched flow rates. After fitting them, all running problems are gone and the bike is back to its magical norm.

This has been done a few times for no benefit. Intake lengths are tuned to provide the best air charge at a given rpm, and Honda put a lot of thought into it. Pretty sure the correct alignment is Short-Tall, Tall-Short. Or by cylinder: 1# Tall 2# Short 3# Short 4# Tall

Hardly. I'm thinking more the folks at MIT, CalTech, Stanford, et al. These are guys that create the stuff which eventually makes its way to the corporates. I see none of those guys giving weight to the whole HHO idea. It reminds me of some Aussie fellas who had "invented" a backyard perpetual motion machine. It used permanent magnets that - once you started spinning it by hand - kept it spinning forever and ever and generating electricity. They were TOTALLY CONVINCED it worked - TOTALLY. When actual physicists came in and PROVED it was total bollocks, they didn't accept it, because they were unable to actually comprehend the laws of physics properly. The fundamental problem here is that the people coming up with these ideas don't understand physics enough to prove themselves wrong. They only know enough to keep proving themselves right, and are constantly surprised when they can't get energy out of the system. But they KEEP GOING because they don't have the ability to prove themselves wrong. A good scientist knows when to call something a dead end. A bad scientist wastes his entire life on it with nothing to show for it except conviction. Of course everything I say here will only make y'all think I'm "a suit", "the man", "brainwashed by big oil", "too stupid to understand the intricacies of the technology", etc.

Absolutely - the Powercommander alone can corrupt the data because if you fit this thing and then get a custom tune, you could well end up with better MPG purely because of the Powercommander. I still think it's all hogwash. In todays market if the best engineers in the world aren't working on this right now, it means it doesn't work. Saying different = conspiracy theory.

Hi folks, The injectors on my '02 started to leak after they were cleaned. This is not uncommon on high mileage injectors and basically means they were already stuffed. If you ever want to find this out for yourself easily, here is the very simple process to do so: Lift the tank and remove the airbox cover and air filter. Remove the intake stacks and set aside, then lift the airbox base gently. Disconnect the IAT sensor, the MAP sensor (electric and vacuum) and flapper valve vacuum hose and electrical plug, then remove the airbox base. Take a piece of paper towel and cut it into three inch wide strips. Tightly roll each strip into a "stick", and about an inch from the end, fold the stick back on itself into a hook. Plug all the open vacuum lines and start the bike. Ignoring any FI warnings from disconnecting the MAP sensor and IAT sensor, let the bike warm up to operating temperature and then shut it off. With the bike no longer running, hold the throttle wide open and take a paper towel stick. Put the stick into the throttle body with the hook facing the injector port. Push the stick down until you can tell the hook has moved past the injector port, and then left the paper towel stick gently. It should hook itself into the injector port a little bit. Now, prime the fuel rail by turning the key to the ON position (WITHOUT STARTING THE BIKE!) and waiting for the fuel pump to stop. Repeat about six times and then remove the paper towel stick by pulling on it gently. Don't rip it, because it will fallt into your motor! Check the end of the paper towel for signs of leaking. It will be slightly darker spots on the towel, and you may need to unroll the stick to see it. If your injectors are leaking, it's time to have them replaced. Even if you replace only one, you want all four to have matched flow rates. The easiest way to do this is just buy a set of four, either aftermarket or from Honda. 2006 and newer injectors have the same stated flow rate and are cheaper than 02-05 model injectors. 1998 injectors are apparently the same flow rate as well, however they are a pintle type rather than multi-hole type injector. New model injectors may still work fine on the '98 though, so feel free to do some research! Lastly, here is a short video on how stuffed my injectors were:

Yes, yes you would. The guy didn't specifically do a leak test. I didn't think anything of it at the time. He did say to me in an E-Mail yesterday that he does not guarantee that leaks won't develop. If there was a leak right away though, it would have been nice to find out because I've been faffing about for weeks spending money chasing ghosts.

UPDATE: It turns out my injectors were corroded and cleaning them has released the beast, and now they leak. It's not the fault of the clean itself - the injectors were on borrowed time. Sourcing a replacement set of 4 injectors is my only real option to fix this. Unfortunate, but somewhat lucky I found this before I tried to fit a supercharger.

Ahh Professor Frink. Is there a smarter man on Earth? I think not!

harsh. give him a chance to tidy things up and come back with some real results. Or just go and read all the scientific papers that clarify HHO gas is pseudoscience waffle.

PAIR stands for Pulsed Air Injection Reed valve. It is a valve which sucks air from the airbox into the exhaust system when you are decelerating, and sometimes when idling. What it does is cause any unburnt hot gases to burn (or at least change chemical composition). It is an emissions thing to reduce nasties. The reason folks disable it is to either merely avoid the popping and burbling when you decelerate, or to make their power commander tune work better. Particularly if you have an autotune module, the opening of the PAIR valve would cause the oxygen sensor to make fuel trim adjustments which are wrong and cause the bike to have a poor air/fuel mixture temporarily. Honda Australia have advised customers with stock factory bikes in some cases to fit restrictors in their PAIR valve hoses, as some people have had throttle control issues due to the PAIR system. I personally never had that problem.

Totally agree with that! The AFR gets completely messed up when the PAIR valves open, totally snorking the Autotune trim tables.

Not sure if I agree with that. Popping from the exhaust on deceleration while the engine is hot was a common occurrence for me. Disabling the PAIR valves stopped that completely.

Just as an update, I have another thread going which describes my problems getting worse. I'm at the point now of investigating my ignition pulse generator wiring and the pulse generator itself. Another member had similar problems to what I'm seeing.