Das Bone

Hey NVR2L8, Glad that you've seemed to "fix" your issues. FWIW, I went to a PCIII a few years ago and before I did, I did a fair bit of research on who seemed to be most happy with their PC's. It was pretty apparent at the time that the people that were having the best results with their PC's were those that had custom maps made. I went that route and the improvement was very worthwhile...........i.e. well made custom map is the way to go IMHO. I have a friend with an '04 and he was having the same frustrating hesitation/surging issues that many of us have experienced...got a PC and tried DJ's maps and a map from a member here with no consistent improvement in general with any of these maps. Finally got him to try my map(he was concerned that since his bike was setup different than mine it wouldn't work well) and he's a happy camper now.........issues virtually gone. PM me if you need more info, Craig

OK, so I went and got some parts(thanks Jeff/Last Chance)........10 gauge wire, shrink wrap and a new fuse holder. I didn't notice til I got home but the wires coming out of the new fuse holder are 12 gauge....will this be OK? So, I guess what I'll be doing, again thanks to Jeff's help, is unhooking and removing the battery......cutting the large red wire leading to the OEM fuse holder at the OEM fuse holder, as well as cutting the red/white wire below the small connector(i.e. at the end farthest away from the OEM fuse holder)............splice/solder one side of the new fuse holder's wire to the large red OEM wire..........and the other wire from the new fuse holder will be spliced/soldered to the red/white wire minus the connector/smaller gauge OEM red/white wire. So, I'm essentially getting rid of the OEM fuse holder and the OEM small connector/small gauge red/white wire(the one that seems to be causing all the problems). So, does this sound right and am I OK with the new fuse holder's wire's being 12 gauge? Thanks guys, Craig

My turn now. I just checked my 30A and it's getting worse looking as is the short section of red/white wire. Obvious I need to make the change now, but with all the missing pics and data and what appears to my "un-educated electrical" brain, there seems to be differing ways of doing the fix so now I'm totally confused :goofy: Ken's ex. on pg 1, Jeremy's explanation on pg 6 and Tinyminds on pg 7 I realize are all achieving the same fix but seem somewhat different in their methods?????? What I get is that we are essentially replacing the red wire coming from battery +, the 30 fuse holder, and here's the part that I'm unclear on....the red/white wire that has a connector in line. Are we replacing the entire red/white wire connector and all(and if not...why not) or just a section of it? If BR or any one can help out with some pics that show exactly what's kept and what is removed, or some very simple verbage that my non-electrical brain can follow it would be much appreciated. Specific part #'s etc. would be great if anyone still has that info. Much thanks, Craig

Looks great :thumbsup: Your post was hilarious too :rolleyes: Two other thoughts for you......black out the radiators, and black out the lower headers. I've done this to my '03 and definitely made a difference. Great job with your mods

Ok here's a couple of pics of what I think is this "ground connector". You need to have the tank up and possibly the left fairing off(mine's off now so not sure how visible this area is with fairing on) to be able to see it. It's directly below the "lower throttle body adjuster" which you can kind of see in the pics(tough to get an angle)....you guys probably know what it is anyway but for ease it's the round wheel in that area that the throttle cables run through. General shot for location purposes: 100_0161.JPG Mysterious Ground Connector....general location And close up....If this is that grey grounding connector that's actually pictured in the other thread, I think his pics were with the black tape around this connector removed and that's why it looks different. So it's the "boxy" looking black tape covered part that you can see some of in this pic: 100_0162.JPG Mysterious Ground Connector: close up....essentially directly below lower throttle body adjuster...completely wrapped in black tape Hope that helps enough. Now to my situation: I followed and did all the tests with the multi meter that you guys(mucho thanks again) suggested and found no unwanted voltage running through the tank...key off and key/run on. I tested both fuel pump and fuel level sensor plugs and continuity was fine. The only test I did not do was the resistance test, but followed both MQ's and Riemski's posts to the letter otherwise. So, I don't appear to be getting any current running amok through my tank so hopefully I wll not explode :beer: :P ......so I suppose I should still do the extra ground wire fix anyway.............any other thoughts or comments?

OK, check this out :blink: Checked all the connections talked about here and everything looked fine...clean connectors, no burned wires, etc. Everything looked normal. So, in messing around with all this I tried putting the tank back down and lifting it up as I mentioned before. This time, in both the raised and lowered position all was fine when I turned the key on, i.e. normal boot up, normal sounds, no FI lights/codes. Then, with the tank in the lowered postion and athe key on, I started moving it slightly from side to side and as I pushed it towards the left, relays started clicking and the dash went wacko. Pushed the tank back to centered and all went back to normal. So I lifted the tank and while viewing from the right side of the bike, I noticed that the forward tank mount bracket on the tank had a little burned looking area. Tank mounting point grounded out on oil hose This is where my tank had rubbed through the oil hose and grounded out Looked down to the contact point when the tank is lowered and noticed that the little metal tube(now know it's the oil hose) that's covered with a plastic insulation sleeve(for obvious reasons now) was worn through the plastic sleeve and was down to the metal oil hose. Oil hose that tank had rubbed through The rubber insulation got rubbed through by the tank creating big problem So, I taped up the exposed oil hose with some electricians tape, put the tank back down, turned the key on and pushed the tank all over the place and lo and behold.......no problems. Now all seems to be fine with the tank lowered and the key on as well as with the tank raised and the key on. Does this make sense to the brain trust here as the cause of my problems? Would this have done it...Im thinking yeah even with my limited knowledge in this area. I'm so excited I can hardly stand it :P

Thanks. The bike's an '03 with about 18,5K miles....no problems up to this point other than an apparent PCIII failure a month or so ago. I haven't had any of the mentioned electrical problems. No electrical accessories added other than the PC but that has been out of the bike now for a few weeks. I had ridden the bike post PC removal for approx 400 miles with no problems. I have not added any grounds or anything...bike is stock in that respect. I have not yet looked at this "blue" connector....but this smoke which was a "translucent white" color was coming up from that general area. Also, what I'm getting FI code wise is this: Flaaaaaash Flaaaaaash Flash Flash Flash.........followed by Flaaaaaash Flaaaaaash Flash Flash Flash Flash.........from the shop manual 's description what I got was a 23/24 code which are 23=Faulty no. 1 o2 sensor heater....24= faulty no. 2 o2 sensor heater. Wierd as I mentioned becuase I still have my 02 elims installed? OK here's another wierd thing. I just lifted the tank. I turned the key to the on position and as I mentioned earlier the dash goes through it's start up procedure but the lights(low beams) are extremely dim and there's a buzzing under the dash and I didn't hear any "whine" from the typical under tank(fuel pump I think) at all. So, I put the tank back down and turned on the key and everything goes back to normal, ie no FI codes, boot up procedure is normal, etc....................what the heck does this mean? BTW, I am in no way shape or form an electrical or mechanical genius :lol: ....just thought I'd better make sure that is understood :D

Ahhhhhh! Now I've got a problem that I hope some of you smart guys can help with. Short version: A week or so ago, on a ride after lunch I started the bike up on the side stand and got FI codes. Rode home and the bike ran fine. Looked the codes up in the shop manual and from my best guess I was getting a 23/24 code which says it an 02 sensor prob. Now I've got the 02 elims so I thought that was wierd. Also, when turning the key to the "on" position the dash would go through it's normal "boot" up procedure but I was hearing the whine from under the tank(fuel pump?) that normally stops.... keep going and not stop? Was going to pull the fairing and remove 02 elims and re hook up 02 sensors but first I propped the tank up to look at stuff and while the tank was up I did turn on the key and heard all sorts of wired relay type noises under the dash and the headlights were really dim etc. Checked hoses, wires under the tank and all looked OK but moved a few around thinking that maybe something got pinched. Put the tank back down and turned the key on and all seemed OK......no codes, normal boot up etc. Today I went riding and all was fine. Stopped for dinner. Started the bike to leave and the same FI codes appeared and saw some smoke coming out on the left side just in front of the tank area :blink: ...the area where that wiring harness and blue connector is you guys were talking about. Got home with no problems thankfully and am stil getting the FI codes when the side stand is down(while riding the FI light is on constantly).....When turning the key back on I'm still getting that whine from underneath the tank that I described earlier that normally stops when the bike is booting up....but it doesn't stop......hearing some relay clicking sounds also....turning the key on and off gives the same results with the exception that the "whine" did stop like normal one time but didn't all the other times. I checked the 30amp fuse holder back by the battery and it looks OK. Does this make any sense to anyone..................help

Exactly

I understand you're qualm as I had the same question. The main reason Nick suggests not "hanging off" as much on the street in the Pace is because it can give the appearance that one is racing/speeding to the law enforcement community. I asked Nick about this(not hanging off on the street) and he kind of smiled and said "well.................." You get the point :P Yes it is a technique that definitely reduces the bikes lean angle which is a very good thing for obvious saftey reasons. That's one of the first things they explain in their classes as it allows you to have a much greater safety margin for negotiating road hazards etc. as you quite rightly mentioned B)

Man, that's scary looking on that you're O.K.

Ahhh grasshopper..........one can not expect to understand the corporate mind of the Motorcycle manufacturer :P Sh*t, we can't even seem to understand what "American" Honda is thinking most of the time :beer:

Guess I missed that one huh(really need that "doh" emoticon again) :lol: