Grum

How about you take it to a good auto electrician and have the new fuse and wiring properly installed. Definetly do NOT just clamp loose wires onto the main positive, a proper eyelet type connector needs to be fitted.

Wished you had mentioned this first up. You stated replaced "All of the fuses" Hmmm, guess you can see that kind of sent us up the garden path a bit!

You can bet your life on that buddy! Purchase something like this, neatly solder/sleeve or good crimp joiners and chop out the main white plastic single spade connection.

WTF... So when did your bike suddenly loose its Main Fuse B and stop running. I smell a rat!

You sure have a problem alright!. Can you please be more specific? "I don't have 12v going to that wire" What wire, the Black/Pink the Black/White wire the Red/White wire? "that fuse you talked about is not there" What Fuse, Main Fuse B 30amp, Sub Fuse B in the Fuse Box?

Wow thanks Terry, no problems at all, I just happen to have plenty of spare time today! Hope we can get Brayden sorted, gotta cover all bases! Ok you get the first round, I'll get the second. Cheers to you.

If you have No volts on the incoming 12v TO the ESR Black/Pink wire then you need to follow this back to the 10amp Sub Fuse .(Ignition. Fuel Pump. PGM Fuse). Measure the voltage on the tiny metal test points on the top of the fuse, again you should see 12v on BOTH of the test points (12v on only one = blown fuse!). Follow this further back on the Red/White wire towards the battery and you'll hit the Main Fuse B 30amp, as mentioned have a very good look at its fuse holder and wiring for any sign of heat stress.(see attached Main Fuse B damage), again measure the fuse test point voltage on Both test points. From Main Fuse B you'll get to the battery Positive terminal on the Red/Yellow wire. Do you follow what I'm saying here, check the wiring diagram, hopefully it will make sense? Download this colourized Hi Rez 5gen wiring diagram, its the drawing I'm working with, it should hopefully help you. Your comment "Yes when I turn the key the FI light stays on." is actually a good sign, generally meaning the Black/White wire is Not powered and should be an easy fix once voltage measurements are done. THEN (if the voltages/fuses are all good) depending on your 5gen version, you may have the Ignition Switch - Pink wire anti theft security wire. This wire sends 9v to the ECM to enable it, 12v or 0v on this wire = No ECM wake up and the Fi Light will be fully On..(See attached Ignition Switch Pink wire and Zener Diode to create the 9v. Check if your bike has this! You have two Main Fuses both 30amp. Main Fuse A is loacted in the Starter Relay, Main Fuse B is located next to the Sarter Relay. Sub Fuses are all the smaller amperage ones in your Fuse Box. You don't have an FCR fault at this stage. The ESR needs to be energizing correctly AND the 12v Supplied voltage needs to be present on the Black/Pink wire. The Ignition Switch Pink wire IF YOU HAVE IT needs to be verified measuring 9v.

NO separately. Stick/Clip your voltmeter Black lead to the Battery Negative. Probe the wires mentioned with Red meter lead.

Ok....... You MUST establish that you measure 12v at the ESR coming in on the Black/Pink wire. Then going out of the ESR when energized on the all important Black/White wire, with Ignition to On, Kill Switch to RUN. This wire feeds ALL your EFI stuff. The BAS is providing the Ground side for the ESR Relay coil. Any doubts about the BAS it can be bypassed for testing. Involves jumping the Red/Orange wire to the Green of the BAS connector. Also confirm the BAS Ground wire has good continuity back to the Battery Negative. AND you have confirmed that Sub Fuse B 20amp And Main Fuse B 30amp are Both good and there is no burnt or stressed wiring of Main Fuse B.??? At switch On. Does your Fi light stay On? This is another indication your EFI systems aren't powered, via the Black/White wire. Lets know how you get on with these checks. Good Luck.

More info needed!........ What year is your bike? What "bunch of thngs" have you replaced? Do you have a multimeter? Have you done any voltage measurements? Are Fuses OK, measure dont just look? What indications do you have at switch on? What is the age and health status of your battery? Are the terminals Clean and Tight? Are you working with a wiring diagram of your bike?

Agree, have only ever used 10w40 (my 8gen and previous 6gens) after nearly 100,000k's with excellent fuel economy, no subjective negative effects! The 40 weight better suits our generally high ambient summer temperatures and not a negative daytime temperature (degC.) to be seen in winter, and especially where Phil lives in Townsville, it's hot and tropical, ideal for a 40 weight. It's interesting that the 6gen clearly defines the options of using either the 30 and 40, however as Fink correctly states, the 8gen only mentions using a 30 weight. As always and especially with oil. YMMV.

Really looking nice Terry. The gold wheel and black forks look brand new, love the colour combination. You're not wasting any time getting some serious work done. Tyre valves - Had a new rear tyre fitted to my 6gen years ago, wasn't aware they also fitted a new valve stem, just slightly longer than the original, kept hearing a tic tic sound when riding as the valve stem was hitting the brake caliper. Beware of valve stem height on a 6gen rear wheel. Keep the pictures coming. P.s. How's the ST's Neutral Switch behaving, no further starting issues? Cheers.

Are we talking of a 2001 5th gen? Your engine can only continue to run if the EFI system is still powered via the Black/White wire coming from the ESR (Engine Stop Relay). Perhaps the Relay has a problem with heat and latching on temporarily! Suggest as a starting point to isolate the ESR by swapping the ESR with your Hi Beam Relay, see how that goes. Assume you are also saying that stopping the engine with the Kill Switch has exactly the same effect?? If the voltage on the Black/White disappears instantly at switch OFF as it should (measure the Voltage), and you still have some form of "dieseling" effect going on, then could be leaky injectors, carbon hotspots, new plugs needed, possible leaky fuel pressure regulator...... Explain the wiring mod you did to get power to your Fan Fuse? A simple jumpering of the Red/Black switched wire from the Ignition Switch to the fan power Blue/Orange wire is all that would be needed. This should in No way effect your EFI. Do you have the wiring diagram of your bike?

Correct, I gave it a go and within days the chain chatter was back, all solved with a new one. I'm also of the belief that increasing the oil feed hole does Jack, as these tensioners are not like some of the early car type plunger tensioners that certainly did rely on oil pressure in the punger to do the job, the VFR CCT's don't rely on oil pressure from the oil feed, just purely for lubrication. The VFR CCT's I've removed (3 of) have all been very adequately bathed in oil and operated smoothy, think it's an issue with heat cycles, vibration and age that the spring tension starts to go off resulting in chain chatter up at the head covers, probably a fine line with CCT's in applying just the right tension.

Great looker for sure Terry. I'm sure the Candy Red with the silver wheels was for 2008, 2009 saw the same colour scheme but with the gold wheels, black frame and forks. My 2009 Sword Silver with gold wheels was a great looker and all round fantastic bike. As for re tweaking the CCT springs, that just doesn't seem to work as a long term fix. And especially with the front CCT you don't want to be in and out of the Vee replacing it again as it's a PITA. Best fit a new oem. Rear CCT is easily accessible. Have fun with it Terry hope it brings you tons of riding joy. Cheers.

Look out Phil. Think they've detected a stolen Red VFR800F directly below!! "Procurement has commenced for permanent POLAIR capability in Townsville. The helicopter has already assisted police to track stolen vehicles, arrest offenders and locate missing persons". So where did you purchase your bike from????? Cheers

To be honest with the four VFR's I've owned I've never experienced an EFI fault while riding, so I'm going by what the Service Manual states. It's makes good sense that whilst riding and a fault is detected you don't want a distracting flashing light in front of you, only when stationary, sidestand down, kill switch to RUN, ignition to On that the code will display not sure if engine needs to be running, but the fault needs to be active. Plugs are correct being the NGK IMR9B-9H. The optional 8B are a slightly hotter heat range plug. Good luck with all the other checks.

No mate, its an Aussie model, previous owner purchased it new from A1 Motorcycles. Also no H.I.S.S. on the USA models. Great bike Bobby, hope it serves you well with many happy riding kilometers. Did you get 2 Ignition Keys and all the standard accessories. Seat cowl, seat height raising collars, pillion grab handle blanking plates, complete toolkit, owners booklet and any service records? Cheers from a fellow Melburnian and very happy 8gen owner, with nearly 100,000 faultless Kilometers.

I wouldn't worry too much about the Code 22 for the O2 sensor at this stage, other than to perhaps check its 4P Black connector for good, clean connections. The Service Manual Symptoms for this Fault States - "Engine Operates Normally". It would be highly unlikley the O2 sensor fault would cause your nasty issue as the O2 sensor just provides feedback info to the ECM (closed Loop Mode) for A/F ratio fine trimming. Did you clear the code as suggested? You want to do this and re run your bike, who knows when that O2 Sensor DTC could have been logged to memory, if your bike gives you a hard time, its after that when you want to see and recall if any intermittent fault has been stored to memory. AND when riding when the fault occurs check the status of the Fi Light as quick as you can IF you can! A sudden flash of the Fi Light could also mean a momentary loss of EFI Power - The Black/White wire coming from the Engine Stop Relay and ultimately from Main Fuse B 30amp previously mentioned. With the memory cleared any highly intermittent error detected by the ECM (there one second, gone the next) will be stored and may help in isolating a problem causer. An intermittent sensor issue, such as the TPS, a Fuel Injector, Ignition Pulse or Cam Pulse Generator etc is more likely to cause sudden changes to the bikes operation, not an O2 Sensor, especially as you've stated that "It does this in rain or sun, hot or cold, any gear, any speed". And, as mentioned, an Active current fault detected by the ECM will have your Fi Light ON while riding, then displays the flashing code once stationary with SidesStand Down. If the fault suddenly comes good the Active code dissappears and no flashing code will be seen, However it will be logged and stored in the historical memory for later recall. There most definetly is No problems riding the bike just because of a historical memory DTC of 22 for the O2 Sensor. If it was currently Active your Fi Light would be telling you so, you don't have that situation. Just curious - When you changed the Spark Plugs. What brand and part number were they? Be interested in hearing how you get on after siphoning as much as you can from the tank and refill with fresh preferably non Ethanol blended fuel. There are stories of Fuel Stations (high humidity regions of Texas is one area) that do not purge their storage tanks, this allows the continued build up of water in the tanks because of Ethanols hygroscopic nature, this can ultimately end up in the fuel tanks of customers, something to think about!

Questions and Suggestions...... - How fresh is your fuel? Could you have bad fuel, water condensation in the tank especially with Ethanol blended Fuel? - Possible dirty Fuel Filter. - What is the health status of your battery? How old is it? Are the terminals Clean and Tight? - How old are the Spark Plugs? - Check for a leaky/ruptured Fuel Pressure Regulator Diaphragm. Remove its vaccumm hose and check for any sign of fuel in the hose or dripping from the FPR hose connector, should normally be dry. - When the fault occurs Does The Fi Light come On? - Check Vacuum Hose to the MAP Sensor, make sure there are no kinks, cracks or breaks in the hose and that it is properly connected to the MAP Sensor. - Suggest going through the process of reading the ECM memory historical fault codes, take note of any, then clear the memory. Go riding till the fault reoccurs recheck the ECM historical codes, an intermittent sensor failure might be logged in the ECM memory. A current active fault will have your Fi Light On while riding then displays the code once stopped and Sidestand is down, Ignition to On. - Check the wiring and Fuse connector for Main Fuse B 30amp. This fuse feeds ALL your EFI stuff and commonly suffers from heat stressed wiring and high resistance fuse joints causing intermittent to total failure of your EFI. - Check the Red 4P Connector at the Starter Relay. Make Sure the Red wire that come from Main Fuse A 30amp is Not heat stressed and has not melted the red plastic of the 4P connector, make sure the Red wire Spade connector is making good, clean, tight contact to the Starter Relay contact. All of the above are some known causes of various forms of Surging and Bogging. Assume you have the Service Manual? You can download it from this forum. Good Luck.

Here you go..... Diameter OD = 28mm Height = 20mm Internal recess diameter = 12mm Internal recess depth = 7mm Bolt Total Length = 34mm, 5mm Allen Key head, M6. Bolt Hole Diameter = 6.4mm Hope this helps. Should be a piece of cake to make on a lathe. Cheers.

There are simple quick tests to verify the Starter Relay operation... - Unbolting the main positive from the M terminal (Starter Motor side of the Relay) and move it aside, allows you to press the Starter Switch as often as you like ensuring that every time you hit the switch you hear the Relay click AND you should measure 12v (every time with the click) at the M terminal of the Relay. - You could unplug the 4P Red connector and with a couple of simple test leads and Carefully run 12v straight from the battery to where the Yellow/Red and the Green/Red wires go onto the relay connectors to independently energise the Relay coil. If the Relay doesn't operate 100% when making the connections then you have a Faulty Relay. If the Relay performs without and hiccups then this would point to another issue and Not the relay. Given the age of the Relay its probably well worth just fitting a good quality (preferably OEM) new relay anyway, no harm or money wasted in this sitiuation. Then reassess the situation, problem may be solved, if not, shouldn't be too hard to fix, and at least you have a nice new Starter Relay. Good Luck.

You also might want to get into the Start Switch and give it a good spray of some form of contact electrical cleaner like CRC 2-26 or even WD-40, a coating of Ox-Gard on the contacts could help. Give it a good exercise and perhaps an Ohms check for good continuity when the button is pressed. Check the 4P Red connector at the Starter Relay. Make sure there are no signs of heat stress on the connectors or wires especially the large Red wire, make sure they are clean and making good contact. - The Starter Relay (when in Neutral) requires a good functioning Neutral Switch - When the problem is Active Does the Neutral Light Remain ON or is it OFF or flickering? Check for good clean Neutral Switch electrical connection and an easy functional test of the switch using your multimeter if you have one. - Have you downloaded the Service Manual? And just incase you don't have it, here's a simplfied drawing of the Starter Circuit.

No need to waste the extra cash on the GT's. Used all the standard Michelin front and rear from PR 2's up to the Road 6's on my 6gens and 8gen, without any problems. Includes thousands of k's two up with luggage riding.

Ah, well done. Any idea as to what was jamming the original plunger from retracting? Has the new CCT stopped the noise you were hearing?