Baileyrock

That sux! Your Elka tech is another guy screwing up people's bikes IMO, there is no way in hell you can get proper SAG numbers with that spring rate! :angry: It happens far to often & by too many suspension company's/shops especially on VFR's. There seems to be a Bunch of Bogus Spring Rate Calculators out there that just have one incorrect number in the VFR's ratio formula that is messing most of them up! JamieDaugherty found a problem in the calculator he was using that provided these same (too) low rear spring rate numbers. He basically installed a stock spring rate at 900 lbs(858 stock)! I would call Elka and get them to send you a 1200lb spring min. or install one free for you, I guarantee your Sag #'s and bike will be vastly improved!

That's interesting. I've been trying to get my suspension properly fettled, and UnZud's premier suspension guru was of the opinion that my 900pound/inch shock spring (and damping) was too stiff for our roads. I'd already had the front springs changed from 0.95kg/mm ones to 0.90, and tha damping altered to match. FWIW, I weigh ~190 poondz. I completely agree with Pete That at 190 lbs you should be running at least a 19kg(1068 lb) rear spring which is what I run @190 lbs. It is probably a little soft for 190 lb riders. Like many so called experts yours is wrong IMO! Proper spring rate is a proper spring rate no matter the road conditions, damping adjustments are what's used to adjust to road surfaces in general. :rolleyes: BR

Be sure to let us know how that set-up works for you! :fing02:

Hi Kevin, Sure, all you have to do is figure out where the proper level would be with the 43mm tubes at 25 deg angle vs straight up! So basically if you measure the high side of the angled fork oil in the tube it will read approximately 10mm high vs level tube, so just subtract 10mm from desired measured level and you should be right there IMO. :fing02:

Luigi, How are you doing and how is the healing going? Your avatar explains a lot of it, just wanted an update on your condition. Hope your doing great! :rolleyes: BR

No, it's a Great idea! Yep, Too bad you didn't count the turns on the new one. Next time. :goofy:

Nice job and write-up to the both of you! :beer: I did my CTT's doing the same method as Tightwad used, except I didn't drain any antifreeze or remove that little hose which makes it harder, but doable. :goofy: vfrqqq, Nice work, but I think it might be possible to have too much tension. I'm not sure, but if it's possible to say double the spring tension over stock it may actually cause premature guide rail wear. That would be my only concern with this mod, because if in fact that is possible you would end up having to disassemble some of the head to replace the guide rails instead of just the tensioner. Like I said, I do NOT know if that is an issue or not. Too bad you can't determine what the new tensioner has for tension. :goofy:

Ralph, Great to see you back no matter what your riding! :biggrin: Keep posting w/pics, we love it! :beer: BR

HS brought this out of the darkness so I thought I'd add a post to bring it back to life on the forums. :goofy: Still a great project! :fing02: BTW whatever happened to Tok??? :goofy:

Hi and welcome to VFRD to you there in Cape Town! :goofy: Yes, like discussed in this thread that dash buzzing is a direct indication of the common Ground wire issue. There is only one ground point on the entire bike and that's at or near the rear of the tank on the frame, I don't know what connector that you are referring to under that small cover. This is the link to the repair needed to the blue connector for grounding issues to the front sub harness. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=34394&st=0&p=411780entry411780 If you haven't done this repair already, I Strongly suggest you do it ASAP as this is the only source of grounding to the front harness. Here in the USA Honda did a RECALL of all VFR's 05-down to replace the wiring harness. Seems many other countries did Not get a recall! :fing02: PS the previous owner probably got rid of that bike because it started having that issue before you ever had it! :laugh: BR

Yes, they all fit and the very first post of this thread explains you question about each type of wheel. :wheel: Welcome to VFRD.

Sounds good so far Lacy! :fing02: Don't forget about Catless Headers(98-99/Delvic/Motad) they will all drop a few lbs over stock and free up a few ponies. :wheel:

Kevin: Don't mean to rain on your parade, but I think if you include the mounting hardware you're actually looking at closer to 10 oz according to my postal scales. Pete Yeah, my weight doesn't include the mounting hardware! :rolleyes:

Lacy, please don't take it as negative, but everything you want to achieve on the Vtec has been attempted and or achieved or found to be impossible or extremely cost prohibitive for the last 8 years here on VFRD and by it's members. :rolleyes: Hundreds of Vtec owners before you have delved into the exact same issues, so were not saying it can't be done because were pessimistic, it's because we've tried just about everything and you will find a thread about every attempt resulting as a success or failure. :blush: For sure your bike has some extra weight with the ABS equipment for sure! How about finding a member to trade bikes of similar condition except for ABS as many members would love to have ABS. This could do several things for you, give you a bike with less weight and work to do to start with and maybe a few hundred bucks in your pocket to do mods on the lighter non-ABS bike. I checked a few other weights for you: -Rear linked brake lines/valves & brackets 2 lbs -Center stand 3 lbs -Par valve hoses/clamps & control valves 2 lbs -chain guard 9 oz -factory bar ends 8.8 oz -vtec front brake calipers w/lines 8 lbs -rear peg assy w/bolts (L&R) 3 lbs -rear grab rails w/bolts 1 lb 2oz -rear sub frame(if I remember right) 15 lbs Good luck and keep us informed! :fing02:

I did a F4i front end on my vtec track bike which uses stock wheel and brake rotors, I did delink and use the F4i calipers & m/c but I'm sure you could fab the bracket needed to retain the linked brakes if desired. :happy:

I'd say those items are good for maybe 6-7 lbs(not including the sprocket change). :happy: I've gutted my 02 almost as much as possible, even a modded rear sub frame which I dropped to almost 1/2 weight, but that was only around 5-6 lbs savings there. Running a 5th gen sub or maybe an aluminum F4i sub could drop close to 10 lbs. I haven't have a chance to get an accurate weight of my stripped Vtec as of yet, but will in the next few months(when I can walk again) :fing02: I think you could buy a nice used 07 GSXR 750 for less that what it would cost to drop 50lbs off a vtec! :ohmy: BR

Hi and welcome to VFRD! :happy: I don't recall how long or what the stroke of the F3 shock is, but do know that many have done the F4/F4i shock swap. Most all CBR shocks are sprung way soft vs VFR's like in the 14kg range where the stock vfr is a soft 15.3kg. I run a 19kg on my F3 Ohlins and it works great for my 190 lbs, I would go with a 19-20 kg for your weight. I doubt the stock valving of a F3/F4 shock will be adequate for a 19kg spring, but you could always try it and see. You may not have much adjust-ability but if it controlled the spring then it would be good enough until you buy you Elka. Otherwise you'll have to spend some bucks revalving the shock on top of buying a spring. Member JD does the entire mod with spring/valving/extension for less than $300 I think. :ohmy: