KanadianKen

Dude, Looks Sweet. Although with the LED's, if you installa Load Equalizer from autolumination.com It will slow down the flash rate. The Flasher send out more power then the LED's need so they flash fast cause too much juice. Just a thought, looks great though. Good work I noticed the fast flash rate as well. It might draw more attention - but the faster flash rate is actually NOT LEGAL. Flash rates are determined and set to a specific flash rate. Might draw attention from the local "Award Distribution" network....... :rolleyes:

Love the video!! Damn those lit up extenders look great. Bike sounds awesome as well. :thumbsup:

I've gone over the seams with my wifes curling iron - that is what you said to do - right Fixer? Ok - I hit the seams with the soldering iron, and after a bit - it became smoother and easier to judge the time to heat it - and to make it flow nice. All done. Water tight - vibrations - bring it!!! Wasn't that hard after all. :thumbsup:

ken, my only fear is that the glue actually doesnt melt the plastic and over time vibration may split the seam. Good point. Maybe I'll do the "overkill" and get the soldering iron out. thanks Gixer!!

Ken, using a soldering iron is easy. use a flat tip about 5/32 wide (my pencil iron came with 10 different tips) let it get real hot and just drag the iron across the seam. i just had to do someting similiar od my led light for my fender eliminator. it will melt together and be watertight Fixer - its watertight now. I added some more of the activator and the glue - it worked great. Radar used a soldering iron on his. I might try it for fun on the spare bottle I"ve already messed up. :thumbsup:

Well - is anyone else here also more "mechanical" than "artistic" -------- like myself? I don't do well with arts and crafts sh#t!!! I managed to cut the notch out of the tank bottle, and also cut a matching "patch" from a polyethylene scoop that fits the contour. After some dremal sanding, and tweaking the fit - I cleaned the bottle out by running water through it many times. Got the Loctite super de dooper all plastics CA out - and went at it. Managed to get superglue on four locations on my right hand - luckily none of them stuck to each other..... I'm a dumbass!!! ANyway - the patch seems to have held - but it isn't watertight. I have some very small pin holes to fill somehow. I'm goign to try to drip some of the activator in the pinholes - then a drop of glue and see if that does the trick. Failing that - I might try a soldering iron very carefully to melt the hole together. HOnda should make these bottles from factory with the notch gone - the bottle are never going to see coolant up that high anyway. ? EDIT - I have sealed the holes with additional activator and glue. It is watertight now. If I had to do this again, it would go a lot smoother. Additionally - I likely would have used a lighter "patch" material - something like the material found in a windshield fluid bottle - much more workable. :beer:

What are you trying to tell me??? Besides me being a light weight with the beer, did Lobster say anything about my riding???. It was a long week, honest!! Damn American drank more CDN beer than me! :goofy: Ken, by myself, I wouldn't even attempt that!! Great looking job. Very slick! I'd give it a go, but you'd have to promise not to dremel my fender. Cbar would shudder from Down Under!! LSFD!! :P Would this be a prototype install for 3rd gens????? I have the fairings off right now. I'll check to see where the engine mounts are for the 3rd gen. Radar, great product! Good luck! This website and the members rock!!! :thumbsup: Lobster did mention something about "those that can - do, those that can't - TEACH" I'm not sure what he meant until I saw you at the bike show..... :goofy: Just kidding. I'd gladly take a look at your bike to see if we could rig a set up on your 3rd Gen. ANd didn't you hear - CBAR has a 5th gen now - and its fender is gone. He's long over the fender apprehension.... Bwa Ha ha ha ha ha!!!

I picked up some Loctite Super Glue: "All Plastics Guaranteed" Loctite ALL Plastics It was $6.00 at the local Ukrainian Tire, but the difference with this one - is that it states explicitly that it bonds polyethylene - which is what the coolant bottle is made out of. The other "Super Glues" said that they didn't work well with polyethylene. I haven't tried it yet - but I'm hopeful that it is the ticket.. I'll report back after my attempt. :thumbsup:

Travis - can you post the actual product you suggest that will work? thanks

THanks Trav - I'll give that a shot!! Appreciate the heads up. Will it work with dissimilar materials? Meaning I have Polyethylene coolant bottle - and Clear PVC hose to weld together......

CA huh? never thought of that. I'll see if I can find some here in town. I assume it melts the pieces together? I tried a torch for kicks on the trial bottle- turned the coolant bottle clear - and very malleable. Model glue. will give that a try first before giving up! thanks. :thumbsup:

Oh come on Ken, you've drilled holes in your fairing.... drill a hole in your bottle :thumbsup: that parts done Gary - now I have to fix that hole up..... Polyethylene doesn't like glue, adhesive, contact cement, or pretty much any other way to stick it together - except Plastic Welding. I messed up a trial bottle - and I don't want to booger up the real one.....

I might send you my bottle Darren!! I have the patience for "Artistic" crafts about as much as a bull has patience in a china shop...... <_< :thumbsup:

It should do (test it with the battery in to make sure), but you don't have to unsolder the switch. It'll work just fine with it left in. If you want it out (to save accidental pressing, for example?) then just put a small screwdriver or something under the switch, and pry it gently while you heat the terminals on one side then the other. I left my switch on because (a) it's under the front fairing where there's no danger of accidental operation, and (B) I can revert to using it as a normal remote should I need to - just snip the wires off. Gaaaa!! All this talk has got me wanting to farkle again. I'm thinking of having a go at wiring it through the headlight flasher, and powering it from the bike's battery rather than an internal one. By the way - this isn't my idea, so I can't take credit for it. I copied someone else's initial idea, but just did it slightly differently. Thanks for the comments - I'll be giving this a go in the coming weeks. Great idea Chris#### !

I just shorted mine out (with the battery connected) to see which pair it was. One pair worked, the other didn't. In your pictures, I'm guessing that either the left-hand or right-hand pair in the bottom picture will work, given the way they're effectively the same from an electric point of view. I'd go with the left, as it would be easier. If you wanted to come through from the other side, you could poke the wires through the holes next to S1, and bend the wires over to those two, or bridge them across. Enzed - so if I take the micro switch right off - then solder in one side of the push button to the top left, and the other to the bottom left - when the push button is closed, it completes the circuit and the transmitter sends the signal? If so- I can handle figuring out the leads into and out of the relay. thanks.

Ok - so I ripped my spare transmitter apart. It has a micro switch that is soldered with four pins. Can someone tell me based on these photos - where I have to wire the leads in from the appropriate leads on the relay? I plan to use a standard relay like that used on the Stebel horn mod. MIcroswitch: Other side: THanks!!

THanks CHris - I think I get it. I have a spare transmitter for my garage - I'll take it apart and have a look see at the internals. Great idea you had.

Cool stuff. Would like to do the same to mine. Got any close up pics of the wiring you did to the transmitter switch? :thumbsup:

OK - here's the photos with fairings on, and it's all buttoned up. Great fit - spacing off the fairing is very good. Looks great!! THe last two pics are a bit blurry - I guess the auto focus didn't know where I wanted it to look... the gap is likely about 5/32" maybe a touch smaller - off the plastic. Sorry for the "boring" pics for those that aren't interested. However - I think that there is enough interest to benefit those other snowbound folks to help the grey matter keep thinking up ways of tweaking their ride before the snow thaws...... :thumbsup:

that trim shouldn't be required - the holes are clean, and you won't be able to see them... I'll snap some photos shortly.

When you look at these two photos - you will see two recesses. One is the seat face of the frame, and then there is a raised "shoulder". The original slider bases that Radar made didn't accommodate for both - as the 5th Gen that he has didn't have the two surfaces. We took some measurements and then Darren sent me an anodized Black set that he tweaked to fit these recesses - and they fit spot on. Perfect fit on both mating surfaces - stronger connection to the frame. These slider sets are unreal quality pieces that I hope I never get to test. Here's the revised slider base in anodized Black. I'll install them completely with my fairings this afternoon to show the overall fit and finish. I might even clean up the hole saw holes before snapping the pics to reduce the stomach turning effect that holes in fairings cause to some here.... :rolleyes:

VeeferMadness - I'll do your install with you - its a piece of cake.Even for a monkeys ass like me, we take our time, get teh Sleemans chilling, and get at it. I may have worked out an easy fix for the coolant bottle that is a little different than the corner notched out. I hope to finish minethis weekend, i'll post up my suggestion if it works. ANy other members in the SOuthern Ontario area that want this done on either a 5th or 6th gen - and a 4th gen if its turn key - let me know. Happy to help.

Great job on the rewire. thats on my list of things to do. I don't have near the electric consumption you do, but I 'd like the wires to be layed out much better under the seat. I hope to add heated grips, and a powerlet of sorts at some point. Might as well plan for more than I need. Nice work.