BiKenG

That's all good to know,. So I need a 5/6 Gen collector and rear downpipes, with 8th Gen fronts. Simples.

I am still trying to establish how Delkevic can use the same collector for 5 and 6 Gen systems. Is the outlet angle and position the same on these bikes with just a different link from there to the low can of the 5th Gen or the high level stuff under the seat of the 6th Gen? As I said, I'm needing the splayed front pipes of the 8th Gen with an outlet suitable for the 6th Gen's high level and although modification of the pipes to suit may be necessary, the less needed the better. So just trying to understand what might be required. Anyone know for sure about the outlets?

Well I am in the UK, but down south:-( However, I have a good trailer and a suitable bike and the time :-) Also, I'm very interested in this whole issue so would be prepared to truck the bike up there, especially if it got me a system to use. Then I just need to buy one more. I've started to make contact with Jeff to take this further. I'll update you all when I know more. Two more things. My bike is a Gen 5.2, i.e. with cat. So ideally need to source a regular system for comparison. Anyone got any Gen 5.1 headers kicking around we could bor

The Delkevic system is often dismissed for its poor collector joint internals, but has anyone actually tested on a dyno? Ideally a bike with standard system, then swapped for Delkevic to get a good comparison on same dyno, same day etc? It would be particularly interesting to see this for their 8th Gen system as they use the same L&R merging of earlier Gens rather than F&R as Honda use for that model.

I hadn't noticed that the 8th Gen uses a Fronts and Rears merge style, but it does indicate how the different merging affects power and torque. Personally I'd be more interested in healthier mid range torque than top end power and if that's the effect of a F&R merge on a 180 crank, then it shouldn't be dismissed out of hand. Although for those wanting the max. top end power, L&R merging remains the more desirable. So many options :) For mid range torque then, the Lextek may well be ok. Anyone want to try one and put it not the dyno so we can see the result?

The way exhaust pulses are combined can have a very significant effect on the power of the engine. For the 2000 FireBlade (CBR929RR) Honda used a (cast Titanium) combiner valve that joined 1+4 and 2+3, or 1+2 and 3+4 under different conditions specifically because to maximise power under all conditions required the different merge styles. It was their first exhaust 'power valve'. So the way the pulses are combined can make a big difference and the pulses from a 180° and a 360° V4 occur in a different pattern which Honda (and other exhaust engineers) have found require the different

Just had a chat to the seller of that Lextek system on eBay UK. I asked if the picture was of the actual correct system as the Fronts and Rears merging is really for a 360° crank motor and not the VFR800 which is 180°. To cut a long story short, he knows nothing about it and just sells them. Apparently Lextek say VFR800s run ok with it and it didn't need changing (from what though). Looks to me like they used an existing collector and bodged it to fit the VFR800 and as it does actually run (which it would of course) didn't look into it any further. While I think spendin

Thinking further on this merging issue, Honda merge the Lefts and Rights and then merges the resulting Left and Right (as does the TBR) on all bikes I've checked that use a 180° crank (VFR750 and VFR800), but on the bikes with 360° cranks (RC30, RC45, NC30, NC35) they merge Fronts and Rears and then Front and Rear. I think this gives a clear indication of what is the best for the bike under discussion here, i.e. the VFR800. Which rather leaves a question over the Lextek system. Unless the picture is actually of a 400 (or RC30/45) system. Again, do we have any idea about BW's intent

I think this is something that needs to be settled. Honda pair the Lefts and the Rights as did TBR and Erion before that (same guy I think). Although the Tuono is Fronts and Rears paired, that may not be relevant to our requirement. The Aprilia has a different cylinder angle and I've no idea what the firing order, nor crank angle is. So what works best for Aprilia V4 power may not work for the VFR. So I would tend towards thinking the original Honda merge style would be best. Everyone holds up the TBR as the system to copy and that's what they use so does it not make sense to stick

As far as I can make out, you +1'd JZH's comment about Black Widow, but then commented on the Delkevic which indeed seems to have their 8th Gen rear slip joints backwards. It does seem wrong to me, but in reality, does it actually make any difference. Not to the flow as there is the same small gap in the otherwise smooth internal bore. Where that gap then leads is surely incidental. Also, would it affect potential sealing of the joint? Since static pressure is going to be exerted in all directions equally, the only difference would be due to the movement of the gas and like the flo

Seems to me this is crucial for any prospective manufacturer. The problem is always going to be cost of design/manufacture vs size of market and since in this case it wouldn't impact on performance, modularity just HAS to be the way to go. I could do with some clarification though. Is the collector outlet the same on the 5th Gen as the 6th Gen? Obviously completely different systems downstream, but is the collector actually interchangeable? The reason I ask is because my requirement for such an exhaust is to suit an 800 special I'm building which will have the 6th Gen h

Oh yes. No question. But that doesn't necessarily mean it works any better.

I can see them now. That wasn't the case when I first looked. I'm poring over them now. 😀 Doesn't anyone have a Triumph wheel to measure its offset?

Fixing picture links would be great.

Just seen this and wondered about the final outcome. I cannot now remember the cam cover to head seal on the VFR1200, but I do remember many years ago after a service on an RVT1000 (RC51 / SP-1) when I noticed it smoking on the overrun. As has been mentioned above, it was a missing PAIR oil seal. Allows oil to get sucked into the exhaust although I don't recall any oil leaking out of the engine. Once I took the cam cover off I could spot that the seal was missing and once replaced and all back together, no more problem. So that sounds like the exact same problem.

Hi Jim, long time no see. Not since that endurance race at Snetterton all those years ago. On a GSXR I seem to recall. Did the Enigma project get anywhere? Since I’ve heard nothing about it for some time, I suspect not. Oh well. Nothing ventured... Glad to see you’ve got the VFR bug. I’ve just come back from a brief trip on my eVo4 (1200 special) with 3 VFR800s, all also ridden by ex Honda staffers. Plus there’ll be another VFR800 joining. It’s still a great bike, even if the current press are bored by its lack of fancy whizz bang (and essentially unnecessary) features.

Thanks gig. Just what I thought it would be.

Question for those who've used Ducati axles. On the (driven/cush) LHS what type of washer do they use under the nut? Honda like to use a dished/spring washer, but are Ducati the same or is it just a plain flat washer? I've looked at parts lists, but they just state "washer" which is no help at all.

So you got a 20.5mm offset? Is that for the 1098/1198 wheel for the larger axle? I measured 23mm on my 916 wheel and that concurs with what I have seen reported elsewhere. Which means Ducati used a different offset on their different axle sizes.

I now think that is incorrect as I misread the diagram which in fact states the 916/996 etc hub is 98mm dia. which means it would need a 3.5mm sleeve to fit in the VFR750's S/A which uses a 105mm dia hub. Possible but not ideal and I've no idea where that would position the wheel. Although being 10mm wider might allow some 'adjustment'. All in all, not a great solution I think. A bigger problem is trying to arrange a single nut fixing for e.g. the RC45 wheel as the 400's axle cannot really be shuffled sideways in the 750 hub the 7mm required to align the wheel. Not sure

The Tuono 1100 is I think a cracking bike, but to be honest, any company that simply shuts down for the summer holidays (and to hell with customer service, parts etc) is suspect in my books. I sure love the idea of a new RVF1000, but I actually think the Ducati or Norton V4s will be better road bikes with their larger capacity and none of them can possibly allow me to go any faster as that's governed entirely by speed limits and nothing to do with the bike's performance. I've set myself a new rule. No more bikes that require tax and MOT. So apart from the VFRs, it's 40

I may not have explained that this bike is based on a VFR750 with Gen3 SSSA whose rear end is 70 wide by 105mm dia. The Ducati hub is 80 wide by 110 dia. and no matter which way I look at it, 110 into 105 don't go 😞 So the simplest solution is to stick with the 750 hub and axle and just make an extension to suit the 916 wheel.

In that case, the goal is the wheel, but I won't be using Ducati axles and stuff. Goes against the grain on a Honda (apart from the wheel of course 🙂 ) Anyone got an accurate Ducati wheel offset? Hard to measure exactly. Is it 23mm or 7/8"?

You do realise it will not be a VFR. It'll be a track weapon. I'd like them to produce a naked version, but I doubt they will. Either way, it won't be a VFR. Naked versions of the Norton and Ducati V4s are intended and will be very interesting. There's always the Aprilia. Why not that? It's a very good bike. None of them VFRs though. Either track focussed or naked. If you want a bigger VFR, you'll be disappointed. Hang on, there's already a big VFR. Without a doubt, brilliant bike. I like mine naked though 🙂

Well, for starters, I think that's a LOT of money for not a lot. Just a few brackets that are not suitable for my purposes and I'd still have to buy a complete Ducati axle assembly. Secondly, why pay for someone else to do something I can do myself (once I have all the info). Where's the fun in that 🙂 My intention is to have a 916 type nut and axle thread on an NC[30|35] axle that will provide what I need for these bikes. Same concept as Steen's, but with a different thread and no need to manufacture the actual nuts. Since I'll be using my own calipers and hence need to