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About skymon

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  • Location
    Ojai CA
  • In My Garage:
    99 VFR 800FI
    01 XR 400R (plated)

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  1. Thanks JHZ. That at least rules out the "Titanium" from Sidewinder/Krause. 🙂 (Mainly I just don't want black paint. Some of the JTs come that way.) I could do my own holes. I do have a mill and a rotary table. But before I spent all this time hemming and hawing I thought I didn't want to go to any "trouble". Once again, I'm sure I'm over-thinking it. I've lived with extra holes for years without really even noticing.
  2. yup. your're right about the 5th and 6th. Guess the additional holes are for 3rd and 4th. From sprocket center: "*This part number is double drilled with two bolt patterns so it fits all VFR 750/800 models from 1990-2014. "
  3. I know this is kind of nit picky but... I want to replace my rear sprocket (and front and chain of course) and I want specifically to get: 530 pitch/width 43T Plated Steel ("Silver") Not "Double Drilled" (hole patterns for both 5th and 6th gen) Its a little difficult to be sure that a given manufacturer has exactly what I want because the photos tend to be generic or just old. Looks like my choices are these: JT JTR1340.43 double drilled Sunstar 2-569443 pictures vary OEM 41201-MBG-000 pictures vary Anybody know how to source exactly what I want? p.s. The one I'm replacing has a mysterious pt. number. Wonder if anyone knows its manufacturer. (see photo) And yes, I was asking about sourcing the "dampened" front sprocket months ago. I'm moving pretty slow on this. 🙂
  4. By any chance could you recommend a good source for these?
  5. Auspanol, is that 8-spoke definitely off a 3rd gen? My 8-spoker mating surface looks slightly different that the one you showed . I don't know what year mine came off of (bought it second hand of course). Think there were different castings for different years?
  6. Thanks for posting this. I was born and bred in Kansas and I'd never even heard of these rocks. Very cool. Every summer we'd take a trip to the San Juan Mtns and my dad never stopped for anything. (Except for maybe Nickerson Farms) WTH?
  7. I'm a little confused about the PCV bleed. I changed all my bleed valves out to speed bleeders and just want to make sure I didn't introduce any air in the lines in the process. Not clear to me whether I should pump the secondary master cylinder or the rear pedal to bleed air out the PCV. The secondary master cylinder pumping doesn't feel very positive. Did I screw it up if I did both?
  8. I know I'm a little late to the party here but... Just throwing my $.02 in. Made a spacer and shims so I could "quickly" check out the 929 shock. Thinking of a Daugherty Motorsports makeover if I come to really like it. Really like zach571's design and syjang40's solid billet mount too. First impressions: Much more taut. Much more stable in mid-turn bumps. Need to dial in the comp and rebound. I added a little ride height (10mm). I like the effects of that. I think I spent as long trying to carefully trim the battery box around the reservoir as making the spacer. btw if anyone can tell me how a 5th gen battery box could possibly not need trimming for this mod, I'd love to know. Thanks to everyone (HS, BR, Veefer et.al) who figured this all out for me. (Still took me all day+.)
  9. gee...um...anybody else have any thoughts?...
  10. Okay, I bit. Here's my report: Overall, good value. I'm satisfied. I got them because its always bugged me that I can't rotate the brake lever assembly forward any more than I can. (The MC interferes with the clip-on riser.) So I thought being able to move the lever a little closer to the grip might help the wrist fatigue a little. So far, so good. There are a few details to criticize though. 1) Though the overall machining is very good, they leave the fasteners pretty loose at the factory. This gives them more slop in the (several) moving parts than optimal. However if you try to snug up the nut on the cap screws, the nut recess will prevent a socket or open end from going on. I solved this by adding a stainless steel flat washer and a bronze lock washer to raise up the nut a bit. 2) Again, the machining of the dove-tails on the sliding extensions is well done overall, but the design calls for a nylon flat washer to conform enough under the screw head to lock in the slider. It doesn't. (One side was a little better than the other.) I solved this with an o-ring under the ss washer. 3) One of the slider screw heads had a defective allen socket. That makes three different fastener upgrade/replacements I had to make. 4) The main pivots don't have bronze bushings for the shoulder bolts. I lubed them. I'll just have to see how they last. (Strange though because the adjustment pivots do have them.) Anyway, I can't argue with the value. No way I could come close to putting something like that together for $69.99. (Initial link said 59.99, but when you get to the ebay page its 69.99). So I give em a B+ Thanks for the tip Seb.
  11. Very cool project. I just started reading this thread tonight. Got through 4 or 5 pages and finally had to skip to the "end". Really gets me reminiscing about my old '83. After close to 90 k great miles, I finally gave it to a friend who is "going to restore it someday". By the way, I'm curious. I was the third owner. PPO did all the mods. I always assumed the RWB was factory but I only see other '83s with RWR or BWB. Was RWB an option in 1983? I notice that the '84s seem to all be RWB. Also I was told this was a Basani exhaust. Anyone else know for sure? Great memories. Great resurection Seb. It'll be worth it.
  12. skymon


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