BartmanEH

GSXR adapters. (Extenders are available a dime a dozen now, OP edited for clarity)

Anyone have cad files for mirror adapters? Edit: GSXR mirror adapters or the like. So many threads with false starts on making adapters. But recently there have been big advances in affordable manufacturing. Thinking about having a crack at this. edit: Or redesigning the adapters to work with 7/8th gen mirrors—something that officially supports folding.

I use this cable to secure electronics or tank bag using a small padlock looped through this cable’s eyelet. Just enough to deter would be thieves from walking away with an item.

Respect to you members riding 80's VFs. Wow, admire the passion.

I don't think it's a case of air in the rear brake system affecting the front brake system--it's more that with the Linked Braking System, you've got front brake system plumbing running all the way to the rear brake via the PCV, so you need to bleed the two front brakes, the PCV and the rear brake (forgot which one of the two specifically at the rear brake caliper) in order to bleed the air from the front brake system.

Easy now... everyone is just trying to help. I appreciate all the tips, everyone!

I think bmart was replying to my original post where I asked if I should just jam some grease in there

Aight, let's see how brave I feel about picking apart the bearings. I have a tub of Lucas Extra Heavy Duty Grease. What is the bearing seal made of? Metal or plastic?

Hard to tell from the microfiche (#18 in parts microfiche) but I certainly see grease in the gap behind the seal. Not much for hints in the service manual either: Maybe they're sealed as you suggest, @bmart

Did a search and didn't find anything about greasing/maintaining the front wheel bearings. Even the service manual has no specifics--just a remove and replace procedure. I've got the wheels off and new rubber installed. Before I put the front wheel on, I feel I should do SOMETHING to the bearings. I see a beefy dust seal on each side. That doesn't look easy to pop out without damaging it and I'm not sure what the lead time is on replacement new ones here in Canada. Only have 30,000 km on it (18,500 miles). Can I just jam some bearing grease behind the seal and into the bearing area? Should I do something more like removing the bearings and repacking them?

I’m sure Tapatalk support is a sore point. I noticed it was removed as of Oct 2020. Since that thread is archived/closed, I have to burn a new thread to ask if Tapatalk support will be added again.

^^^this. I've asked for this step to be modified in the guide a few times and many people are missing this important step--close the bleeder between actuating SMC and before refilling with rear pedal. I reference this in my short form guide.

This is why I recommend closing the bleeder between actuating SMC and pressing pedal per my short form guide. Closing the bleeder (even if it's a Speedbleeder) and then pressing the pedal will force the SMC back out thus filling it.

[Old post I know but people reference this stuff for years] Do not apply caliper lube or grease to the backs of the brake pads. This is not in the service manual for a reason and our bike's brakes differ from car calipers in this way. More info here: http://www.southbayriders.com/forums/threads/140517/#post-1930527 quote: " you NEVER put grease on brake pads) It also causes the grease to wick into the porous pad material (ruining the pads) straight through to the rotor surface when the back of the pad has been drilled. Some pads are made like this. "

I have the Powerbronze hugger and it is not ideal either. After few thousand miles, it's own vibration caused this crack: P.S. why is this the only forum where basic things like making a picture smaller are so hard to do?

Something in the order of $80/pair maybe? I'm Canadian and need to add 40% to that :-(

I edited the post above and updated it based on this year's fluid change experience.

There are no expected gains until I get my custom dyno tune for my PC3. It does look nice and spaceship like. For now it goes on the list of cheap cosmetic mods.

You'll be fine until winter, no problem.

But of course. See here. I credit Switchblade with the idea.

As a follow up to this, I synchronized my starter valves this morning. Here's the before picture of my homemade differential manometer: And here's the picture after I synchronized them: I also calibrated my homemade manometer the day before with my vacuum pump with gauge. I found that if I applied 20 cmHg of vacuum to one of the four lines, it would displace the ATF vertically about 90 cm in that one line relative to the other 3 which I temporarily connected together. Some quick conversions and calculations later, this means that 10 mmHg would show as a vertical differential of 9 cm = 3.54". I have figured out that the peg board with it's 1 in hole spacing would show a 1 in differential of ATF (hole-to-hole) which equals 2.82 mmHg (10/3.54=2.82). It's been 14,000km (8,700mi) since I last synchronized the starter valves. Looking at the picture before I sync'd them, I estimate that the worst offset (#2 vs #3) was different by 7.5" of ATF = 7.5 x 2.82 = ~21 mmHg which isn't really that bad since that's within the offset limit permitted for the fifth gen anyway, right? The service manual for our sixth gen doesn't specify a tolerance for what the maximum differential should be. Also note for us Power Commander types, I used the Dynojet Power Commander software to monitor the idle speed and kept adjusting it to 1,200 RPM for the synchronizing procedure. My VFR's tach gauge is very accurate as it turns out. I could've used the bike's tach in the end - when the needle was sitting just one division above 1,000 RPM, the PC software was reporting about 1,200 RPM.