magicman

I would love to play engineer here! But alas, there are other problems. I would personally like to keep the rear giving 1 piston up front some lovin, but if it meant getting USD forks, I guess I could give that up. Your system is actually pretty simple. And other than the 1 piston in the front, I don't see what the issue is. Slap some SP2 forks/brakes on, get the adjustable PCV, and run SS lines throughout. :goofy: As mentioned it would no longer be so speed sensitive, but that's the price you pay for shedding the only overly complex part of the system, going from back to front. I've started a thread like this before, and the answer was just a simple "no". But I'm glad you want to look into it! I wanted to keep my original functionality, possibly by stealing the forks/brakes off something that came with what I wanted. With a great lack of outside help, I came up with only two options. Concours 14, and the VFR1200. Neither would be particularly affordable or readily available. And the Conny has electronically controlled (and adjustable) linked brakes/ABS.

While I am running a race take off on the front, I just yesterday installed the brand new BT-023GT rear. Coming from the BT-021 this tire has MUCH better turn in. I'm interested in finding out how it wears.

I'm guessing the spike is extendable?

I like that the wife knew that was obviously retarded and grabbed the camera. So, 750 Shadow?

I did a fair bit of research before buying, and I ended up with a Bags Connection "Sport" magnetic tank bag. 15L, expandable to 22L. Removable external pouches, zip off magnetic base, rain cover, map pouch, etc. Yeah, it was $169 US! But the quality in the materials and the SUPER tight stitching is there. I wish my VFR was as well built as that tank bag. But that's the German's for ya. :beer:

I still think an "electronic" Rally style, slap shifter will be the easiest and most reliable option. It's just Up/Down momentary switches, wired to any number of linear actuators/gear reduced motor options, that would work in parallel to shift both motors at the same time. The boolean logic diagram is ridiculously simple, the only oddity being Neutral, but you can simply ad a separate button to do the half shift from 1st or 2nd. It would be much simpler to build, and WAY easier to route.

Looking good! :laugh:

What the Whyte PRST 4? yeah I want one! You can't pedal standing up (honk) very well but they 'float' over anything rough x-country. have a look at the new whyte bike's rear quad-link/tara swingarm works. Whyte was a ex-F1 benetton suspension designer. Done rear's for Marin bikes too. :laugh: That totally just reminded me of that Turbo Encabulator video...

Now that's just fantastic.

Looking good! Too bad it wasn't actually high-ligher yellow like it appears in the top pics. :angry:

To the best of my knowledge, I'm still running the original bulbs (now at 8 years and 50K). I have yet to find a bike with better light output, other than a properly installed HID Projector. I'd give the dealer a call and see if they happen to have any of the OEM honda supplied bulbs. Might even be cheaper than the $20/pair silverstars...

True, but the luggage rack is fine and the manual doesn't mention a maximum weight of your pillion. But I do believe it mentions a maximum combined weight. Also, because the side cases also mount to the rear fender, a large portion of their weight is connected to basically the rearmost point of the rear subframe. And not with the top case extending out behind the rear seat, that extra leverage multiplies the forces from the overloaded case.

Looking good. Best worst thing to ever happen to that bike!

Happen to have a picture of those gloves pre "storage"? :laughing6-hehe:

Oh dear! Now is not the time to lose motivation! Keep at it!

Cheeky... But getting the front end off one of those $$$... :offtopic:

So, I've been thinking about this some more... I'm trying to figure out exactly how that linked braking works on the Connie. Are those just normal single port calipers out front? When you use the rear, does it just put a little pressure into the main front line. That would give just a little squeeze, but even over all pistons. Is that what's going on there?

To see how it works? :warranty: EDIT: Looks like it's all computer controlled, instead of being mechanical... Blarg. Any other options with all three: USD/LBS/ABS?

What about swapping forks with something that came with USD forks and LBS/ABS? IE: ^^^ Concours-14 Any thoughts? Anyone happen to be familiar with the specs? :warranty:

Keep at it. You're almost there...

Great read! Didn't Codewriter use a vacuum solenoid to turn off the autotune on decel?

I don't think they would be. It wouldn't be logical. Honda would either need to make two different ECUs (which I have not heard of them doing for the 6th), or put overly advanced ECUs in 2/3rds of the VTECs they sent out. I'm fairly certain the ABS module (computer/pump) works independently of the main ECU. I don't believe there is any correlation between our throttles and brakes.

Love the Red Grills. But it's still a little too sparse. Try adding a red HONDA across the bottom. Just to balance out those big white sides.

Anything can be done with enough time and/or money! I'm not sure how similar the front ends are on the bikes, IE if the 6th gen wheel w/ABS sensor would fit, or if you'd have to do a full fork swap. After that, the lines run "FAIRLY" similarly. Would take some tweaking to get the ABS module in there. Then you'd have to swap the rear rotor to get the sensor ring. Not sure if that'd just bolt up either. I am absolutely certain you could do it. Probably not in a weekend though. I bet there are enough small differences between the two bikes, that it would be a multi-stage process, overcoming one minor (but critical) difference at a time. I'm sure someone else can answer the questions about the swapability of the 5th-6th brakes.

I've been following this for quite a while, and I'm glad to see you getting it together. Take your time and get it right. The suspense is worth it.