Tightwad

I recently found these to be available at Eastern Beaver as well, thanks to another VFRD member pointing me to them. Nice to finally have an option!

Tightwad, I hope you get f'ing rich off this stuff. Over the years I've replaced 2 wiring harnesses, every sensor, two batteries, two stators, I don't know how many RR's, etc, etc, etc, before spending the short money on this thing. Not an issue since. I probably dropped a couple grand fixing Honda's crap electrics before I came across this thing. Suddenly, after 4 years of dicking around with this thing between breakdowns while i put miles on an FJR I shouldn't have needed to buy, at 90K miles the VFR has regained reliable status. If we ever meet, I'll probably need to give you a hug, and want to kiss a little bit or something. :blink: I would be happy just shaking your hand I believe....cash donations also accepted :huh: I am glad to have helped, I find pleasure in it, even if it won't make me rich.

Will you measure the width of the rearset? It would be interesting to know how different the 4th gen is from the 6th, as that question comes up quite often.

Somewhere around $65 - 75 U.S. for polished. $75 - 85 U.S. for anodized. See how it works out from there. There are several variables. Having only made 2 pair, as One Off's, I don't have all the production manufacturing steps established yet. Whats the latest news there Boss9 ? Any production date estimates yet ? I just received what I am pretty sure will be the final test set. Randy was able to reduce the length to match the stock length, they look superb! I will be installing them and taking pictures Thursday evening hopefully, and that should do it for the development phase.

I can get any pictures you need, but it is fairly straight forward install. The one thing I don't explain well enough is that the VFRness fits INBETWEEN the existing R/R 6 pin plug, and the bikes 6 pin plug. The Stator connection is not touched at all. Joshua

For me it would be "because I can". I can't even see the tach anymore, due to the GPS/audio stuff blocking the way. I hardly need it, I can feel what the revs are. It would be a good reminded that there isn't a 7th gear of course...

I found the schematics/instructions for one that was developed for an RC51 initially, then adapted to the ST and the VFR. I am thinking of trying it out, looks like a fun build. http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/rc51-general-discussion/43866-my-home-built-rc51-gear-position-indicator-includes-plans-1.html

I found a great replacement for the Honda part, and at only a fraction of the price from www.bikebolts.com. You can also find them on my website. These don't require any drilling etc, and work in all but the thickest locations!

Basically, there's a guy @ the other end of the country (Dave) who I'd like to do the work... he's not available until then! Once done the bike'll be: VFR 800 Fi1 AA Perf supercharger Ohlins rear Staintunes V-Tec front PCIII Givi wingrack Zumo 660 I'm sorry...did I just drool on my keyboard? :goofy:

Pictures? Better excuses for not having it fitted this afternoon??? I am sure you are envied by most of the other VFR owners now...

114???? Good heavens...hopefully it cooled off when you got moving again.

After quite a few commutes to work and back, and I enjoying these pegs...even at short distances. I have also gotten compliments from a number of my co-workers, who liked the clean look. I am short enough that the pegs make it a bit more work to not lean on the bars, as my legs take up less of my body support, but that is probably all in my Genes...I am only 5' 8", with short legs (30" inseam).

I believe the wire you want is brown with a blue stripe, and yes, use the long blue wire. Part of the kit is a T-tap that you wrap around that wire, then crimp closed with pliars. This forms a female connection the male in of the blue wire will mate with.

Well, I am two days in to riding with the new lowered pegs. I am VERY impressed with the level of detail that has been taken, and with the thoroughness of Randy in the design and tweaks being made. I am uploading some pictures to my Photobucket account, and will link them here for an initial view....these are "under development" pictures, so the final product is still changing a bit. I think the new tapered design is much sportier than the Buell version, and fits more with the VFR. The peg bolts up with zero problems, and I had just enough adjustment in the brake pedal to move it without having to take the assembly apart and shorten the rod. I also adjusted (after the first day) the brake light switch....opps. Shifter was easy to adjust, remove it and drop it down a couple teeth, until it is about level with the ground. OEM: Lowered:

Sounds like fun, and I like the Ventura rack.

After building my mini^3 amp, which I LOVE, I found I now needed a way to mount it. As I looked at my homebuild GPS/Camera mount, I discovered it would fit nicely in the space left between the mount and the support bar. I used some parts from my mad inventor kit (read pile of spare and odd parts) to make a dial I can twist to apply or release tension...a quick turn and the amp slides out to tuck away safely in my pocket or luggage. This also leaves the amp close to my Powerlet port or Tank Bag for charging, if needed. I have found the amp last plenty long...about a week on a single charge with my ~1 hour commute time daily. I am going to build and sell the high-power version, this one is more than enough amp for me and I have an interested buyer for the other already, just got to get off my butt. After finishing the amp, I realized I needed cables...especially one to go from the MP3 player to the amp. I had a couple pre-made interconnect mini to mini cables, but they were about 2 feet long: and I needed more like 8 inches. I managed to swipe a cable that was a close fit from one of those Ipod/MP3 player speaker dock thingies...about a foot long, but it had 90 degree ends which is hard to find: As usual, I wasn't content to leave it at that, so I decided I needed to make my own. Radio Shack didn't carry any of the parts I needed so I had to order some...like these connectors: And this cable: And some Techflex....very cool stuff. I like how when expanded the color of the cable shows through, gives it a nice tight look. My first attempt was made prior to my cable arriving (I am not very patient). I used some Cat5 after reading about some other builders who had good luck with it. I would NOT suggest it. Cat5, at least the solid wire type, is much to inflexible for tight bends, and is a pain to work with as it breaks if you bend it a couple times. I ruined one connector on my first attempt, but managed to build a cable that looked ok...the Blue of the Cat5 wire shows nicely under the carbon Techflex: After realizing that would never work, I waited for my cable to arrive. It did, and I preceeded to make another test cable, using some black with silver ends, covered with TechFlex: I learned a good bit, and the cable looks pretty good, so I decided to try a 90 degree version. This was a bit harder dealing with the connector, but it turned out well. I used 2 layers of heat shrink for plenty of protection against kinking at the ends....not that it even bends with the way I have it mounted. I think it turned out well, and the red under the black looks good with the VFR!

As an aside...how much tooling was required to start using that lathe? where do you source your material? The last time I did any machine shop work i was in college and had it all right there for me.

I don't about you guys, but if 24mm is enough to make-or-break, I'd be rethinking what I'm trying to move my bike through. Or open the other door...you did say they were double doors. I understand on the bar end length, as I have a vista cruise that takes up a bit of mine, but my hands aren't that big so it isn't an issue. I wish I had a lathe and mill

Hi Axel, PM sent. Glenn I too am interested, are the bars included/available?

Very nice! I know of a CNC machinist who might be willing/interested in making these if the specs are available. How key is the steel type for the bars, and why the two different types? It wouldn't be pretty, but I bet you could make a clutch line extender that would remove the need to run a whole new line as well.

Hi Adam, You have tried slackening the bars off and pushing them forward to take up the movement in the assembly ? There isn't much there but it may help. Otherwise your options are simple : File off some of the front edge of the engagement tab on the bars, or the risers,or both. Obviously this reduces the strength.. The risers replicate the tab engagement , so some people will simply lift the stock bars up the fork leg and retighten them there without a riser - this gives the same effect but the bar WILL rotate around the fork leg under heavy pressure so that would be your call safety wise. It could turn a simple parking lot tip-over into a new tank purchase.. In any event, you won't be able to move the bars FAR forward without finding the levers/switches hitting the fairing on full lock. Rod Rod, Are you still selling Bar Risers? How does one go about seeing/ordering them?

very beautiful work! Makes me drool over having a lathe, mill....and of course the knowledge!

Great writeup, wish I could have been along. the Natzhez trace is pretty, but it is just as torturous as the Kansas airboarding...imagine the most beautiful road with awesome sweeps that is heavily patrolled and gives huge fines. 50mph on a VFR for hours is torture!