Member Contributer expvet Posted May 6, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted May 6, 2016 Has anyone done an upgrade to the 30 amp. fuse near the battery pictured below? It is a known problem and tends to get crispy wires and a melted fuse socket. Looking for how to information and what equipment is needed (wire gauge, fuse holder and best place to buy them). Mine is still working but showing signs of heat damage and want to address this before it strands me somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFROr Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 I used Delphi Weatherpack fuse holders after my stock fuse holders incinerated. https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46034/Delphi-12033731-Metri-Pack-Weather-Proof-Cap-Cover/ I think I got them at NAPA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer expvet Posted May 8, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2016 The part on the left seems to be what I am looking for. https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46033/Sealed-ATO-ATOF-ATC-Fuse/ Above is the link for the complete assembly of the holder with the cap as shown above. It shows that it has 12 gauge wires, which should be enough for 30 amp fuses. What is the part you show on the right with the wiring diagrams? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFROr Posted May 8, 2016 Share Posted May 8, 2016 1 hour ago, expvet said: The part on the left seems to be what I am looking for. https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46033/Sealed-ATO-ATOF-ATC-Fuse/ Above is the link for the complete assembly of the holder with the cap as shown above. It shows that it has 12 gauge wires, which should be enough for 30 amp fuses. What is the part you show on the right with the wiring diagrams? The pic is from an old thread I started when my fuses cooked, the other part is the starter solenoid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WalkThisWhey Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 On 5/8/2016 at 0:18 AM, VFROr said: The pic is from an old thread I started when my fuses cooked, the other part is the starter solenoid. Did you do a hardwire with this replacement, or did you put on the old connectors that would clip in to that one wire? Mine is getting burnt and I want to get out in front of it before I am left stranded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer expvet Posted May 28, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 28, 2016 As an update, I ordered the replacement fuse holder. While waiting for it to arrive I purchased a mini file set at Home Depot for $10.00 and filed off the oxidation from the contact clips in the OEM fuse holder and connector it leads to, gave it a shot of DeOxit, filed it again and installed a new fuse. So far the holder and and the connector have shown no heat buildup. Seems like in my case it was oxidation causing resistance that resulted in the heat buildup. Might want to give it try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zs6af Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 Does the Fuelpump 20 amp fuse feed from this 30 amp fuse or is it connected directly to the positive of battery? Does that 4 point plug that goes in there supply power for ALL the electrical stuff on the bike , like headlights , ECU , instrument cluster and fan,hooter indicators or is there another feed. Where does ur RR power come in to charge battery ? Via that same 30 amp fuse into the battery ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zs6af Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 Dissected the bike . That 20 Amp fuse feed directly from battery , I added another 2 fused lines in line with it so there is now three fuses in line 3 x 7.5 Amps . That was after I cleaned that original 20 amp fuse holder , took the plugs out of the plastic and cleaned it very very good . No more fuel pump fuse problems . Also move the positive wire on the starter solenoid to the front position on that 4 point connection plug as the connection got hot and melted a hole so u could see the side of the lug. maybe I must use both and run two positive wires to ......... where ever. Less amps being pulled on the one lug . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kris78 Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 I had just come across this 30 amp fuse yesterday next to my battery as I needed to charge my battery. This is not my fuse but it is what my fuse holder and fuse look like. Why do they get so hot ? And melt the fuse and holder like this ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted July 10, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted July 10, 2016 The heat is caused by resistance. Oxidation or corrosion of the metal contacts increases resistance which in turn creates heat, which creates more resistance . . . It's a self-reinforcing downward spiral. Oxgard or Naolox can be used to treat the connectors to prevent corrosion. If those are not available in Australia, there should be some equivalent product - possibly from electronics distributors. An annual inspection and re-treatment has kept mine in good order for going on 6 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kris78 Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 Ah ok thanks for the insight to the heat and the way my fuse looks. I will ill be putting a new fuse holder on shortly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WalkThisWhey Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 On 5/6/2016 at 0:08 AM, VFROr said: I used Delphi Weatherpack fuse holders after my stock fuse holders incinerated. https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46034/Delphi-12033731-Metri-Pack-Weather-Proof-Cap-Cover/ I think I got them at NAPA. So I'd like to replace my fuse holder as it is getting a bit burnt, but I had a question about the other smaller connector - should this connector be preserved or is OK to cut and hardwire it? I'm confused because I am looking at this thread: and it looks like the smaller connector is kept. My concern is that if the smaller connector still has some corrosion or issues internally, then you really haven't done anything to fix the resistance problem, hence why I'd like to fully replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kris78 Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 This is what I went with. no issues at all now with starting and not sure if this is part reason though I have noticed the battery holds charge now for longer periods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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