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Pc3 Usb & O2 Eliminator Install Causing Fi Light Variances


jair24611

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I am stumped.. I've read a lot on the PCIII USB process and resulting issues, but I haven't found anything clear on a solution for mine. ..Looking for some help.

I installed a used but good condition, PCIII USB on my clean '03 VTec. I also did the 330ohm, 1/2watt resistors in the male ends (harness-side) of the O2 sensor wires. I checked to make sure they are in the correct 2, of the 4, pin connections.

After installation, I got the FI light #24 error.. (Faulty 3/4 (2nd) O2 sensor heater). I ensured the O2 elim resistors were "resisting" the right amount with my voltmeter and compared to one of the DynoJet eliminators that I bought for a good deal on ebay. Everything looks right, and I used the dynojet eliminator to make sure the connection stayed good.

Then, I did an ECU reset to clear the codes, using the service pin "jumper" method, but the codes still remain.

I've fiddled around with the eliminators since then to eliminate all possible positions and variables, and I plugged into the PCIII to make sure it had an active working map, running.

..Still can't get rid of the code or issues. It's running a little rich and slightly off (35mpg's and not as smooth as I expected with the Cozye or PC map). Also the code went from 24 to 23 (Faulty 1/2 (1st) O2 sensor heater), and sometimes the FI light just stays solid for a bit.

Any recommendations on what to check next?

FYI notes

-good battery

-VFRness recall performed already

-two brother's stash can exhaust

-left the O2 sensors in and tucked the cables

-only 8k miles and barely used bike

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Reconnect the O2 sensors and see if it clears. You do not want to run it like that but it will tell if it is the O2's. And make sure the ground from the PC is connect straight to the battery .

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Hey Leaven', yeah, I'll try this.. was going to try taking it back to stock, but procrastinated cause the fairing kit I bought of ebay makes any piece's reinstall a pain. I'll just undo the left-side rear two bolts and reach in to reconnect the O2's. thanks for the suggestion. will update.

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Hooking the O2s back up got rid of the error. I'll buy another "Dynojet" O2 eliminator to see if it is the "Radioshack" style eliminator that was not making proper contact.

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For the very reason you suspect, I used 2 x resistors with the legs twisted together & folded back. You could just solder the resistor to a thicker piece of wire !

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Hooking the O2s back up got rid of the error. I'll buy another "Dynojet" O2 eliminator to see if it is the "Radioshack" style eliminator that was not making proper contact.

Yeah do it right .

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On the first time around, I twisted up the resistor's end so it was bulky enough to make constant contact, so I thought, but maybe it needs more. At one point, I couldn't get it in the pin because I had thickened up the end so much that it would bend the rest of the wire leading ot the resistor.

For the very reason you suspect, I used 2 x resistors with the legs twisted together & folded back. You could just solder the resistor to a thicker piece of wire !

Does wrapping 2 resistors together up the resistance and change the voltage that is let through to the ECU? I'm guessing it works fine with your recommendation, but wanted to check.

Thanks for the detail on the walkthrough. will wrap the two together and try that. ..if that doesn't work will sodder one to a thicker wire. Thanks fellas

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On the first time around, I twisted up the resistor's end so it was bulky enough to make constant contact, so I thought, but maybe it needs more. At one point, I couldn't get it in the pin because I had thickened up the end so much that it would bend the rest of the wire leading ot the resistor.

For the very reason you suspect, I used 2 x resistors with the legs twisted together & folded back. You could just solder the resistor to a thicker piece of wire !

Does wrapping 2 resistors together up the resistance and change the voltage that is let through to the ECU? I'm guessing it works fine with your recommendation, but wanted to check.

Thanks for the detail on the walkthrough. will wrap the two together and try that. ..if that doesn't work will sodder one to a thicker wire. Thanks fellas

resistor in parallel are half as much . Take the total of the two resistors and divide by 2 .

Resistors in series add together .

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Twisted the two resistors together, as you suggested, Mohawk, and the beefier ends made a good contact. One of the wires/pins slid out of the male side of the O2 connector plastic housing, so that pin might have been part of the reason the resistor was having a hard time connecting in. Anyway, attached the resistor to the free-floating wire, on one end and into the housing, on the other end, then electric taped the whole thing together. Didn't reattach the wire cause of zero working space, with not wanting to completely take off this new, PITA Chinese made fairing kit.... But bottom line, it fixed the problem!! No more FI light error. Bike runs so much better..like it should! ...Smoother, stronger, and cooler. Finally get to appreciate the PCIII mod. Definitely worthwhile.

Appreciate the suggestions and walking through this one with me!

ROLL ON!

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The ECU does not measure the current to the heater circuit just the fact that voltage is drawn, so any resistor will work. So if the heater circuit fails then it would show FI as a failed O2 sensor. So good to go.

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