brd Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 The bike sat for almost a year. It was running fine when I parked it last September (without stabilizing the fuel). It was running on 2 cylinders. I took off the carbs, cleaned them out, put in new fuel, and installed a new battery. It starts up and now runs on 3 cylinders (the front left header doesn't heat up). I'm going to pull the sparkplug (hope I can do it without draining the rad?) and hope to find it really fouled or bad. Otherwise, I'm running out of ideas. Maybe a bad coil? Oh, and I'm supposed to be heading to Arkansas Friday morning or tomorrow night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer rangemaster Posted September 27, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted September 27, 2012 Was it on the side stand or the center stand ? The idle jet / slow speed jet / pilot jet (the fixed one in the carb that can't be removed) plugs up VERY easily, then fouling the plug. Make sure when you punch it with a .011 guitar string you get it to go in about 30mm-if it stops short of that it's plugged. I put a few DROPS of Berryman B12 Chemtool in mine for about an hour and the wire only took about 3 pokes to break through. You have to check the sparkplug too because it'll foul on starting almost instantly if that jet is plugged. Good Luck. PS: There is a brace on the left hand side of the radiator that you have to take off on one end and then the rad pivots forward to get to that plug. A regular spark plug socket and a 3 in. wobble extension works perfect to get it out. Don't forget the antiseize when you put the plug back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V-FORE Posted September 27, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted September 27, 2012 You do not have to drain the rad, just loosen the 8mm bolt on the bottom left i believe & pull the lines out of the holders & swing the bottom forward, use the plug wrench in your toolkit, I have a little clamp tool that allows me to grap the plug & pull it out. or just pull the plug wire & look for the spark to jump while cranking it over to verify spark good luck gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted September 27, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted September 27, 2012 make sure the wires going to the coil are connected. i have seen them come off.. clean them.. and make sure the are snug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brd Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 Was it on the side stand or the center stand ? The idle jet / slow speed jet / pilot jet (the fixed one in the carb that can't be removed) plugs up VERY easily, then fouling the plug. Make sure when you punch it with a .011 guitar string you get it to go in about 30mm-if it stops short of that it's plugged. I put a few DROPS of Berryman B12 Chemtool in mine for about an hour and the wire only took about 3 pokes to break through. You have to check the sparkplug too because it'll foul on starting almost instantly if that jet is plugged. Good Luck. PS: There is a brace on the left hand side of the radiator that you have to take off on one end and then the rad pivots forward to get to that plug. A regular spark plug socket and a 3 in. wobble extension works perfect to get it out. Don't forget the antiseize when you put the plug back in. Bike was stored on the center stand. [edit: hrm, now that I think about it, it may have been on the side stand most of the time. I've had it on the center stand all taken apart for a few weeks as I've tried to find time to work on it.] I used the toolkit wrench and had no problems getting the plug out. The plug looked fine. I lightly brushed it off. Grounded it to the block and it sparks. Pulled the carbs again (count #3?) and things looked okay. I blasted out the idle jet passages best I could. The slow jet (the round smaller one that you can remove, not the main) I could barely see through, so I took out the right side one to compare. They both looked pretty comparable. This is a tiny orifice, so it's almost impossible to tell if one's more open than the other. For shits & grins, I swapped them and buttoned it all back up. Well, guess what? Now the front right cylinder is not running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted September 27, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted September 27, 2012 so you found the problem..remove it.. and soak it in a glass with carb spray for 10 min or so.. then blow it out with an air compressor.. if you dont have one.. the local garage does and will most likely let you use it.. make sure you can see through it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brd Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 so you found the problem..remove it.. and soak it in a glass with carb spray for 10 min or so.. then blow it out with an air compressor.. if you dont have one.. the local garage does and will most likely let you use it.. make sure you can see through it. Carb removal #4. Got it down to 17 minutes this time. The frustrating thing is that the one I suspect to be the bad one, I can see through. I'm comparing it to a good one, and I can see light through them both and blow through them both, they appear the same. Maybe a very slight difference in diameter could matter, I don't know. Going to try again to clear it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brd Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 4th time's a charm. BTW, I found this page helpful. http://cycles.evanfell.com/2008/09/how-to-clean-a-motorcycle-carburetor-the-right-way/ Soaking in B12 chemtool (even overnight) didn't clear them, but boiling for 10mins in water + lemon juice did the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brd Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 Okay, so I took it for a test ride. It bogs down off idle. Never comes close to dieing, just lags for a second then accelerates. Power seems fine through the rest of the rpms. Thoughts? I filled it up with new gas and tomorrow will run either some seafoam or techron through it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted September 27, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted September 27, 2012 you may need to open up your air fuel screws. turn them till they get snug to a stop.. and turn them 5 HALF turns out. aka 2.5 full turns.. it just easier to see the 1/2 turn.. use that as your base line and see how it runs :) just wondering.. have you syncronized the carbs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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