Repairing broken fairings?

[Guest smithe2]

I just got some replacement fairings that I'm going to chip bits and pieces off of to fix the old ones that need it. My question is what is the best type of adhesive to use to make these repairs? ABS cement? or some plastic epoxy? I was thinking about sanding all the paint and finish off (I have to repaint anyway) and then using ABS cement. I'm just worried that the ABS cement won't adhere right with the paint still on.

[Burns]

ABS glue isn't your BEST option; works ok for some some repairs, but it tends to be weak, least in my experience.. ... Plastifix works pretty well... little pricey but easy to use and pretty strong... some have used various combinations of fiberglass and glues, also...

[Parker]

Wot he sed ^^

Plastex is what I use (same stuff different label)

http://www.plastex.net/index.php?pr=Shop_Now

[AnikMankar]

for small crack and fill - I use super glue and some baking soda...

[taglicious]

As much as I agree with the above posts, here's what I've done...

D.I.Y. - mechanical skill level - 2

patience... ya, you're gonna need it

if you spare the time to do it and want big chunks taken care of >>>at your local hardware store, there is ABS drain pipe (buy the 4 ft piece) (look for the pipe that has a black outer layer, a white center layer, and a black inner layer) < this is easiest to form. You'll also need a soldering iron (45 degrees and hotter). You'll also need a propane torch (i use map gas), and welding gloves (it's hot)

1. take a 1ft section off

2. cut it length wise in half (so you have two pieces)

3. lay one piece, dome side up on the garage floor

4. fire the torch, and heat up the plastic from end to end, underneath and over the top (4 inches away from the plastic) whilst the plastic is on the floor - *watch the plastic!!! you don't want it bubbling!!! if it does you need to move the torch... it should NEVER stay in the same spot while using this process....

5. you'll see it start to lay down, when it does, push it flat or step on it with your shoe

6. when it's flat, you can get either a sheet-rock knife or a pair of sheet-metal sheers(my favorite) and cut into strips or the estimated size of the piece you want to make/fill with.

7. you can also shape the piece by heating it up again(following step 4), and wearing your gloves, be able to get it to an approximate shape or bend you need it to be.

8. spot weld the piece by either pushing your soldering iron through the two pieces, or taping one side, and sliding the tip along where the two pieces meet to get it to hold itself so you can spot weld.

9. by the time you get the piece to hold you'll be able to start the act of using your soldering iron or ABS glue, or the combo.

10. weld both sides (inner and outer) well and then sand to perfection

*it takes time getting used to what you're doing and see what you need to do to make the process work best for you*

*it's not a fast process but it's great for 'doing it now' instead of waiting for an ordered plastic kit.*

GL

[JETS]

I have re-built a VFR 97 and a CBR600RR from crashed plastics. It is not hard, but takes patience. It isn't expensive. Use Dura-Mix 4040, Weld-On 58, or Versachem. Use stainless mesh to reinforce and you can quickly assemble very strong parts out of jig-saw puzzles. Fill face side flaws and finish with Everflex Polycoat filler. FYI, regular epoxy and fiberglass resins will not stick to ABS, and ABS glue is not strong bonding. Check out Urethane Supply for products and a great book on How-To.