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6th-gen non-ABS brake hose lengths


kaldek

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For anyone wanting to replace their 6th-gen hoses with braided lines, here are some pictures of all the hoses and their lengths. Note that if you wish to replace the CBS hoses you will need to interface your new hoses with the blocks which interface with the rigid hoses that connect from the front to the rear of the bike.

Right Front Caliper Hoses (Warning - needs T-piece and extra hose for right-to-left crossover at least 10 inches long OR needs two hoses from master cylinder to right and left calipers)

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Left Front non-CBS (main) hose

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Left front CBS hoses (connects to rigid hoses) WARNING - SPECIFIC TO 2006 AND NEWER BIKES ONLY. 2002-2005 HOSES SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT LENGTHS.

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Rear pedal hose

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Rear caliper hoses

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The pic with your foot, is that the line pulled taught(straight)? Or is the line slack in that pic as well?

Incidentally, hose lengths are always measured as the distance between the fittings(actual hose length).

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The pic with your foot, is that the line pulled taught(straight)? Or is the line slack in that pic as well?

No, each pic that I zoomed into I pulled the hose straight.

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The pic with your foot, is that the line pulled taught(straight)? Or is the line slack in that pic as well?

Incidentally, hose lengths are always measured as the distance between the fittings(actual hose length).

Thanks for that input Seb... so I should take references from the crimps and not from the banjos themselves.

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You do know Hel do the kits.

http://helperformanc...=vfr800&x=0&y=0

It was a request I made that Kal is responding to.

Yes I know (and imagine Kal does as well) that a range of companies offer kits, but I have access to braided steel hose (and fittings) to measure at a local parts shop and it will probably cost me half as much as a ready made kit...

Why pay more??

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I would say this job is only cheap if you just focus on the front master cylinder and the five pistons (three right, two left) it activates. There are kits available for this job which are very cheap ($119 AUD), and consist of a long banjo bolt for the front master cylinder and two hoses - one to each caliper.

Essentially that would take care of the majority of braking problems right there.

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The pic with your foot, is that the line pulled taught(straight)? Or is the line slack in that pic as well?

No, each pic that I zoomed into I pulled the hose straight.

Cheers Ed, you helped find out that my new 4th gen SS clutch hose will work on my VTEC. :beer: The Goodridge ss line is 1" longer than the stock line, with the same fittings.

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You do know Hel do the kits.

http://helperformanc...=vfr800&x=0&y=0

It was a request I made that Kal is responding to.

Yes I know (and imagine Kal does as well) that a range of companies offer kits, but I have access to braided steel hose (and fittings) to measure at a local parts shop and it will probably cost me half as much as a ready made kit...

Why pay more??

Your lucky enough to be able to make your own, Seb does too, but in Australia your not allowed to for brake lines as they need what is called ADR certification. If we get pulled over by law enforcement that understands what there looking at you will be defected.

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I would say this job is only cheap if you just focus on the front master cylinder and the five pistons (three right, two left) it activates. There are kits available for this job which are very cheap ($119 AUD), and consist of a long banjo bolt for the front master cylinder and two hoses - one to each caliper.

Essentially that would take care of the majority of braking problems right there.

I lost almost all pressure in the rear brake pedal and front brake lever... (track day)... due to high temps and thus expansion of rubber lines... I think the only line working was the independent front RHS.... and that's not all pots I believe... almost went to plow the fields if you get the expression...

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I lost almost all pressure in the rear brake pedal and front brake lever... (track day)... due to high temps and thus expansion of rubber lines..

Wow that must be one tight track!

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I lost almost all pressure in the rear brake pedal and front brake lever... (track day)... due to high temps and thus expansion of rubber lines..

Wow that must be one tight track!

Well.. the CBS system also ensures your brakes will heat up sooner as if I only use the front brake lever the rear brake comes into play and thus heats up and vice versa... they get less of a rest in a track environment... so it's easier for a CBS system to overheat than a separate "traditional" brake system to do so... also ambient temps in southern Spain in summer can get up to around 45ºC so that doesn't help... and it was a very tight track... I only had a little pressure left in what would be the separate front brake line and that was surprisingly enough to save my butt when the hammer came down... hasn't happened since, but I'm not really all that keen on a repeat... and any improvement is always welcome.

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