Member Contributer skymon Posted August 5, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted August 5, 2010 Without going into all the red herrings associated with my search to find out why my clock would reset occasionally on startup... Just the facts: The stator checks out fine New battery No melted or suspect ground connections (except small amount of corrosion on neg battery cable connector) Original R/R 23,000 mi. Voltage readings before cleaning negative battery cable Bike off--12.75v Key on--12.21v Starter cranking--10.90v Idle-- 13.25-13.35v 5k rpm-- 13.00v Voltage readings after cleaning negative battery cable Bike off--12.95v Key on--12.20v Starter cranking--11.00v Idle-- 13.60-13.80v 5k rpm-- 13.4-13.5v So, looks like the clean battery cable helped but I'm still not getting more volts with more rpm. Not really low, not erratic (pretty much always 13-14v when engine running) but not more volts with more rpm, in fact its consistently higher at idle than 5k. I think I'm planning on getting a new MOSFET R/R and VFRness from Tightwad but I guess I'm wondering if I'm doing it pre-emptively or because I need it now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flanker Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 You need to... My R/R had the exact same symptoms. It's dying. Mine fried 2 batteries before I figured out what was happening. Your charging voltage is probably fluctuating even more when you're on the move. Get that new R/R and VFRness from Tightwad. I did, and my charging voltage is dead stable and good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer IntAceptor Posted August 5, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted August 5, 2010 At nearly 60K on my 99 with the original R/R and stator, I average 13.8 volts as measured across the battery at most RPM's. It will rise a bit at times and sometimes drops to 13.6 for a few seconds. The R/R has a fan on it and extra heat shielding as well as wires jumping all the connectors leading to and from it and a super cleaned and polished ground connection from the battery to frame. The 13.8 volts has never given me or my battery any sort of problem and keeps it charged nicely. This is just a point of information. I don't think a reading of over 14 volts is necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Jmmymc750 Posted August 5, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted August 5, 2010 Over 14V not necessary, correct. But when the voltage drops with increase in RPMs, he has all the other parts checked out OK. The r/r is dying. The 90 service manual had a ohm check for the r/r between pins, but I don't think the later models do. See Josh. Solder, don't crimp. Love with all your heart, dance like...wait...just go to wiremybike.com! Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer skymon Posted August 8, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 8, 2010 Thanks. At least its good to know mine are not all that unusual observations. I suppose a Datel meter would be nice for the future. The meter slides off the tank above 110mph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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