Experiences of a PCV with Autotune on a 2004 VFR800

[coderighter]

Actually, since that post, another Dynojet tech support rep told me that normal 'accelerator pump' setting wouldn't happen long enough for the Autotune to act on it. This isn't the first time I've gotten different answers to the same question. Because I have been trying to develop a real good base map, I currently have the 'accelerator pump' feature off.

Setting the accelpump to 100 revs would equal 1 second at 6000RPM - just how slow is the autotune?

On kind of a side note, I've read that Honda uses temp more than most manufactures as a factor in fuel mapping. Reportedly, as little a 3 degrees can cause a change in mixture. I've been meaning to check this, but it's been a crazy last couple months for me and haven't had much time to play.

Probably the best way is to set up some power source that makes the bike think it is a constant temp outside, then change and compare results. It would mean getting to a position where the trim maps are basically all 0s would be difficult though, as Honda's map keeps changing to the environment (more so then other bikes anyway).

I've also found the speed tables for gear by gear given by Dynojet are pretty close, but not exact. The table can be mathematically calculated from the known gear ratios in the service manual, but my question is where does the 'scaler' number come from?

I am guessing the scalar is the number by which you divide the VSS pulses.

So VSS reading in hz / scalar = speed. That matches the MPH scalar being higher then the KMH scalar. (note there may be more to that calculation then I am guessing here, but you get the idea).

Kind of my point, it's hard to know what to believe from Dynojet isn't it.

[Popsrcr]

Really stupid question. I can't find anywhere what the lights on the Autotune mean.

Edit: ok, I see its one light that is red. Should it stay on steady?

And another edit. I can't seem to get an AFR reading. I'm actually not getting engine temp either, but that could be my wiring.

What could I be missing? I removed and reinserted the wires into the autotune, but they seemed to have a good connection. I have the terminator on the Autotune (none on the PCV).

Thoughts?

Edited March 20, 2010 by Popsrcr

[kaldek]

Really stupid question. I can't find anywhere what the lights on the Autotune mean.

Edit: ok, I see its one light that is red. Should it stay on steady?

And another edit. I can't seem to get an AFR reading. I'm actually not getting engine temp either, but that could be my wiring.

What could I be missing? I removed and reinserted the wires into the autotune, but they seemed to have a good connection. I have the terminator on the Autotune (none on the PCV).

Thoughts?

You need to upgrade your firmware on the PCV to 1.4.0. We were discussing that in this thread only two days ago!

[Popsrcr]

Really stupid question. I can't find anywhere what the lights on the Autotune mean.

Edit: ok, I see its one light that is red. Should it stay on steady?

And another edit. I can't seem to get an AFR reading. I'm actually not getting engine temp either, but that could be my wiring.

What could I be missing? I removed and reinserted the wires into the autotune, but they seemed to have a good connection. I have the terminator on the Autotune (none on the PCV).

Thoughts?

You need to upgrade your firmware on the PCV to 1.4.0. We were discussing that in this thread only two days ago!

Actually, I did, but I'll double check it.

[Popsrcr]

I went through that less than excellent upgrade again and it does say 1.4. Still no AFR.

[Guest GPM]

Really stupid question. I can't find anywhere what the lights on the Autotune mean.

Edit: ok, I see its one light that is red. Should it stay on steady?

And another edit. I can't seem to get an AFR reading. I'm actually not getting engine temp either, but that could be my wiring.

What could I be missing? I removed and reinserted the wires into the autotune, but they seemed to have a good connection. I have the terminator on the Autotune (none on the PCV).

Thoughts?

There is only one light on the Autotune, and it is red. Sadly it's function is not actually documented by Dynojet, but I worked it out by observation.

It is actually a status light - when you first turn on the autotune (either by turning on the bike, or by powering on the PCV) it will start flashing - this means it is 'on' and the O2 sensor is being heated up to operating temp. If you have only powered the PCV using a USB cable (and the O2 sensors heating wires are behind a switched source, as they should be!) then the light will just keep flashing until the end of time. If you have turned on the bike itself it'll flash for up to 60 seconds (depending on air temp) until the O2 sensor is hot enough to start working. Once it is on and heated, the light should go steady and constant (you can test that the O2 sensor is warmed up by touching it).

What do you mean you are not getting an AFR reading? Normally if the O2 sensor is not sending a reading (eg. it isn't warm enough or not plugged correctly) it will display '9.99' in the PCV software. Are you seeing this or 0.00? If all 0s check that the CAN cable is correctly plugged in (mine took a bit of pressure to click in correctly) and make sure you have enabled the Autotune in the PCV software configuration.

If you are getting 9.99 and the light is steady, check all connections - especially that you have the wires from the O2 sensor cable going into the Autotune in the correct order (and use my jewellers screwdriver trick to make sure all the membranes had been punctured). Also remove the CAN terminator from the Autotune and put it in again (even try swapping the ports).

Engine temp is optional - I would work on getting the AFR first, then tackle engine temp.

[Popsrcr]

I'm getting 0s. I'll push on the connector again. When I looked at "about" it did show that it saw a wideband, and the status says 2 devices.

edit - Went back out and pulled the terminator and the cable. On the terminator one of the connectors looked like it was pushed to the side, so I made a little room.

Still nothing. Perhaps tomorrow I'll try to push the female side connetors a little more together to make sure they are making good contact. I'm not getting any errors.

Also, if the wideband were not working, would I still see trims in the autotune table?

Edited March 20, 2010 by Popsrcr

[kaldek]

I'm getting 0s. I'll push on the connector again. When I looked at "about" it did show that it saw a wideband, and the status says 2 devices.

Don't fret too much mate - I've just discovered my PCV is showing everythig *except* fuel adjustments. It shows RPM, throttle, gear, engine temp, AFR, and duty cycle. But no matter the map, it's showing fuel adjust as zero.

Freakin' bizarre. I had trouble upgrading to version 1.4.0 too, and had to do it a few times. Fark, maybe I need to do it *again*.

Anyone know if you can downgrade firmware to 1.3.0? And if anyone has a copy?

[Guest GPM]

I'm getting 0s. I'll push on the connector again. When I looked at "about" it did show that it saw a wideband, and the status says 2 devices.

edit - Went back out and pulled the terminator and the cable. On the terminator one of the connectors looked like it was pushed to the side, so I made a little room.

Still nothing. Perhaps tomorrow I'll try to push the female side connetors a little more together to make sure they are making good contact. I'm not getting any errors.

Also, if the wideband were not working, would I still see trims in the autotune table?

If you are getting trim values (and a decent range of them) then the Autotune should be working. Maybe try going for a 15-20 minute ride, then when you get back leave the bike running, put it on it's centre stand and then hook your laptop up to the PCV. Are you getting any AFR readings then?

Don't fret too much mate - I've just discovered my PCV is showing everythig *except* fuel adjustments. It shows RPM, throttle, gear, engine temp, AFR, and duty cycle. But no matter the map, it's showing fuel adjust as zero.

Freakin' bizarre. I had trouble upgrading to version 1.4.0 too, and had to do it a few times. Fark, maybe I need to do it *again*.

Anyone know if you can downgrade firmware to 1.3.0? And if anyone has a copy?

You can't downgrade to 1.3.0 (don't ask how I know that :P ). It wont brick your PCV, as you can re-upgrade it to 1.4.0. But before you do that you will be crapping your pants as the PCV chucks errors and your bike wont start.

To test your fuel adjustment reading try enriching the idle ranges. I did this and it made my bike sound happier at idle (for extra fun, try playing with the settings while the bike is running, pretty neat!). Strange that it is not showing the set fuel adjustment...

Edited March 23, 2010 by GPM

[Popsrcr]

Yeah, the trims were scattered (I've only done one, 15 min. ride)and varied greatly, but based on what I've read on this board, that doesn't seem wrong. And, referring to earlier, the led on my autotune is indicating the same as others.

As I was half asleep this AM still pondering things, I finally figured out how to get to map by gear to enable it. So, I guess I'll accept the trims I have and enable map by gear and see what happens.

I was wondering if I have an issue with the software on my pc, as I read you can't use the new firmware w/o the new software. I downloaded and installed the latest, but maybe I should reinstall...dunno.

[kaldek]

Well, I managed to fix my problems with the PCV not showing fuel changes. My Autotune arrived on Monday, so last night I fitted it and threw all caution to the wing by loading up GPM's map - warts (trim) and all, and just rode the damn thing.

First up, it ran pretty well. But bugger me - you can feel the Autotune doing its thing for sure!

I should post my trims and stuff to see how different my trimmed map is to GPM's, given the mileage differences and my cleaned injectors.

I'm stoked though. STOKED.

[kaldek]

Well, I managed to fix my problems with the PCV not showing fuel changes. My Autotune arrived on Monday, so last night I fitted it and threw all caution to the wing by loading up GPM's map - warts (trim) and all, and just rode the damn thing.

First up, it ran pretty well. But bugger me - you can feel the Autotune doing its thing for sure!

Well folks, it seems that GPM's map is way off the mark for me after all. The longer I rode it, the worse my bike felt - particularly at cruise. Looking at the trim tables, there were "-20" entries all over the place. Trying to get to the target AFR values just kept hitting the maximum trim value and sitting there. I'm guessing this is when the bike started to feel like crud.

My clean injectors keep biting me, it seems! I've zeroed out the map again and I am now going to try and trim a zero map. Just watch - I'll probably throw in the towel tomorrow and just zero the whole thing out until I get my headers fitted and a custom tune done!

[Popsrcr]

No custom tune, nooooooo. I should be able to play with mine this weekend.

[coderighter]

Well, I managed to fix my problems with the PCV not showing fuel changes. My Autotune arrived on Monday, so last night I fitted it and threw all caution to the wing by loading up GPM's map - warts (trim) and all, and just rode the damn thing.

First up, it ran pretty well. But bugger me - you can feel the Autotune doing its thing for sure!

Well folks, it seems that GPM's map is way off the mark for me after all. The longer I rode it, the worse my bike felt - particularly at cruise. Looking at the trim tables, there were "-20" entries all over the place. Trying to get to the target AFR values just kept hitting the maximum trim value and sitting there. I'm guessing this is when the bike started to feel like crud.

My clean injectors keep biting me, it seems! I've zeroed out the map again and I am now going to try and trim a zero map. Just watch - I'll probably throw in the towel tomorrow and just zero the whole thing out until I get my headers fitted and a custom tune done!

Some of GPM's target AFR's seem a little lean to me. To start with, change all your targets to match the Dynojet file. This will set most cells to 13.2. Narrow your limits to +15 and -10. There are many ways to get bad readings. Insure that your exhaust connections are not leaking. Make sure that no air is entering the exhaust through the PAIR system. You may have disabled it, but is it air tight? Make sure your you're not trying to tune before you get to at least 165 degrees (f). The O2 sensor works because of a difference of oxygen content between the "inside" of the sensor and the "outside" of the sensor. The outside of the sensor needs to be protected from gunk. There's also times, under hard deceleration, when it's possible to pull exhaust that's "touched" the cat, back to the O2 sensor. You can also follow the test procedures for the O2 sensor itself and make sure it's ok. Even when all is well, you'll still 'weird' cells now and then. You need to check your trims often at first and correct anything is that is obviously not correct. Over time, narrow the limits. I currently have my limits set at +9 and -6. Doing this keeps any 'weird' cells from making the bike run bad until the cell is auto-corrected.

Keep in mind, you're checking the mixture after the mixture has been used. This is not going to be an exact science, it still needs to be monitored, especially in the beginning.

[kaldek]

Hey folks, I've been tinkering with the Autotune again. I have zero map, along with the target AFR tables taken from the Dynojet map for the 2009 VFR with staintunes.

I did one ride to work. Check out the trim table for fifth gear as it tries to hit an AFR of 13.7:1.

Autotune fifth gear trims on zero map after 1 session

Check out around 4,000rpm and 10-15% throttle - the Autotune is making big adjustments towards a leaner mixture. This is with 98 octane (high density and therefore richer) fuel and with my cleaned injectors. I must be running somewhere around 12:1 at stock!

Either that or the zero map isn't really zero and it's doing stuff I'm not expecting.

[coderighter]

Hey folks, I've been tinkering with the Autotune again. I have zero map, along with the target AFR tables taken from the Dynojet map for the 2009 VFR with staintunes.

I did one ride to work. Check out the trim table for fifth gear as it tries to hit an AFR of 13.7:1.

Autotune fifth gear trims on zero map after 1 session

Check out around 4,000rpm and 10-15% throttle - the Autotune is making big adjustments towards a leaner mixture. This is with 98 octane (high density and therefore richer) fuel and with my cleaned injectors. I must be running somewhere around 12:1 at stock!

Either that or the zero map isn't really zero and it's doing stuff I'm not expecting.

Here's the deal.

The way the stock map works is that in the cruise area, where the bike would normally go into close loop, the 'default' map is rich. When the throttle position, RPM, and temp (also gear for '06 and up)are all in the correct windows for close loop, the info from the stock O2 sensor is used to lean the mixture for best efficiency and emissions.

The O2 sensor produces a very small voltage when the oxygen content of the outside air is different of that of the exhaust.

The EMU checks the current going through the heater of the O2 sensor to make sure the O2 sensor is connected and that the heater is good. When you unplug the factory O2 sensor and add the O2 eliminator, you added a resistor across the heater circuit that allows enough current to flow to make the EMU believe the O2 sensor is connector and the heater is working fine. Now, since the O2 sensor is really not connected, the voltage to the sensor circuit is zero and the EMU thinks the bike is full lean. Since the closed loop system only works lean a rich mixture, it does nothing.

That's why you're getting those numbers. The stock map with a 'disabled' O2 circuit, is rich and the Autotune is trying to fix it by leaning it out. Look at a stock Dynojet map for a 6th gen, and you'll see neg numbers in those same areas, where most other areas are positive.

That being said, I'd say your numbers are a little too lean. By about 5% or so. I'd double check all the stuff I listed in my earlier post, including the sensor test. Is you're air filter in good condition? Have you seen the posts where the rats nest in them?

[kaldek]

The stock map with a 'disabled' O2 circuit, is rich and the Autotune is trying to fix it by leaning it out. Look at a stock Dynojet map for a 6th gen, and you'll see neg numbers in those same areas, where most other areas are positive.

That being said, I'd say your numbers are a little too lean. By about 5% or so. I'd double check all the stuff I listed in my earlier post, including the sensor test. Is you're air filter in good condition? Have you seen the posts where the rats nest in them?

Well, the bike also felt like a bag of crap at those rpms too. Like it just had the *wrong* mixture. By changing so much on my bike at once I think I have opened a can of worms. See, I cleaned and re-oiled my K&N air filter on the weekend too. Maybe I over-oiled it and the bike is running rich. Or maybe not? I've basically changed too many variables at once and probably need to sit back and have a think about it all. But I'm an impatient bastard, which doesn't help.

UPDATE: OK, checked the air filter. Definitely not over-oiled, if anything could do with a touch up in a couple of spots if I was being pedantic. Also checked my spark plugs, just for laughs, and they have a nice healthy colour to them with good electrodes (they are about 40,000km old)

Also I checked a PCIII map for a 2002 VFR (with O2 eliminators) and it was richened up in the cruise area (4-5,000 rpm, <=20% throttle), not leaned out. So I'm not sure if you're right about it being rich by default there.

[Guest GPM]

Awesome explanation Coderighter! As I understand it in open loop mode Honda had the bike aiming for an AFR of 14.7, but it was altering a very rich area of the base map.

[quote name=kaldek' date='29 March 2010 - 03:10 AM' timestamp='1269850238'

post='694302]

Well, the bike also felt like a bag of crap at those rpms too. Like it just had the *wrong* mixture. By changing so much on my bike at once I think I have opened a can of worms. See, I cleaned and re-oiled my K&N air filter on the weekend too. Maybe I over-oiled it and the bike is running rich. Or maybe not? I've basically changed too many variables at once and probably need to sit back and have a think about it all. But I'm an impatient bastard, which doesn't help.

UPDATE: OK, checked the air filter. Definitely not over-oiled, if anything could do with a touch up in a couple of spots if I was being pedantic. Also checked my spark plugs, just for laughs, and they have a nice healthy colour to them with good electrodes (they are about 40,000km old)

Also I checked a PCIII map for a 2002 VFR (with O2 eliminators) and it was richened up in the cruise area (4-5,000 rpm, <=20% throttle), not leaned out. So I'm not sure if you're right about it being rich by default there.

Each bike is different and likely to give different readings - my bike is more stock then yours, and as such I would have expected your bike to be running leaner from the start - that autotune keeps wanting to lean up your map more then mine does is just odd. In the same cruise area in 5th gear my readings are richer then yours (well, closer to 0 but many still in the negatives). On the other hand my 4th gear is about as lean as your 5th gear map there - my bike runs largely fine in both.

Don't necessarily trust the Dynojet maps - keep in mind that they are designed to cover 6 gears at the same time and are likely made the normal dynotune way, with a heavy emphasis on WOT and peak performance, not gentle cruising with steady throttle and a reduced fuel bill. As I have said previously the autotune lets your bike be what ever you want it to be. Try going over the whole setup just to ensure nothing is slightly out of place. After that, I would suggest giving a different fuel a go - I can 'feel' the autotune hitting the trim limits when I have an old (2-3 week) almost empty tank of fuel, it don't think it is much of a stretch to think that a different brand and rating may make all the difference - I normally run 95 or 91 octane (depending on where I fill up) without any trouble, and normally stick with BP or Caltex (I have had bad experiences with Shell in the past, so I avoid them now).

[coderighter]

The stock map with a 'disabled' O2 circuit, is rich and the Autotune is trying to fix it by leaning it out. Look at a stock Dynojet map for a 6th gen, and you'll see neg numbers in those same areas, where most other areas are positive.

That being said, I'd say your numbers are a little too lean. By about 5% or so. I'd double check all the stuff I listed in my earlier post, including the sensor test. Is you're air filter in good condition? Have you seen the posts where the rats nest in them?

Well, the bike also felt like a bag of crap at those rpms too. Like it just had the *wrong* mixture. By changing so much on my bike at once I think I have opened a can of worms. See, I cleaned and re-oiled my K&N air filter on the weekend too. Maybe I over-oiled it and the bike is running rich. Or maybe not? I've basically changed too many variables at once and probably need to sit back and have a think about it all. But I'm an impatient bastard, which doesn't help.

UPDATE: OK, checked the air filter. Definitely not over-oiled, if anything could do with a touch up in a couple of spots if I was being pedantic. Also checked my spark plugs, just for laughs, and they have a nice healthy colour to them with good electrodes (they are about 40,000km old)

Also I checked a PCIII map for a 2002 VFR (with O2 eliminators) and it was richened up in the cruise area (4-5,000 rpm, <=20% throttle), not leaned out. So I'm not sure if you're right about it being rich by default there.

Hummm...... This '06 stock map, I think shows what I'm talking about pretty clearly. I should clarify, the positive and negative are relative. Because these maps are for bikes that have the O2 sensors disabled and don't have Autotune (PCIII), they are rich so that Dynojet doesn't get blamed for melting down a motor. With Autotune, those numbers will (should) be leaner. With differences in Map sensors, pressure regulators, temp sensors, and throttle position sensors (all analog devices), these reading will vary between bikes, no two the same.

However you say your bike runs bad, so I think you have something a miss.

'06 stock

[Popsrcr]

Some of you have mentioned talking with a tech at PC. How did that go? I've got to look at my connections AGAIN, as I enabled map by gear and I got nothing in the trims. When I tried to manually calibrate, it wasn't sensing me being in gear, so I'll be redoing that connection.

After that, I guess I'm going to have to talk to someone, since I still get no afr/temp anything but rpm on my gauge panel.

[kaldek]

After that, I guess I'm going to have to talk to someone, since I still get no afr/temp anything but rpm on my gauge panel.

It's just wierd that I had the exact same problem as you and rectified it with another firmware upgrade attempt. I'm not sure why yours is still stuck in this situation, and I think it's time to call Dynojet. Tell them that you had firmware 1.2.0 and upgraded to 1.4.0 to get the temperature readings to work, but now nothing works.

[kaldek]

Because these maps are for bikes that have the O2 sensors disabled and don't have Autotune (PCIII), they are rich so that Dynojet doesn't get blamed for melting down a motor. With Autotune, those numbers will (should) be leaner. With differences in Map sensors, pressure regulators, temp sensors, and throttle position sensors (all analog devices), these reading will vary between bikes, no two the same.

I've done some Internet-digging and found some forums frequented by tuners. They're saying that they see negative double digit trim values all the time, especially with the AFR values in the range of 13.7-13.8 which is where mine is leaning the heck out of itself. Add the fact that I've got a zero map in, and the -20 values make a lot of sense.

The general advice from the tuners seems to be this:

• Get your base map sorted
  
• Get a performance AFR table put into the PCV
  
• Do a few runs to get the best on-road readings and roll the trims into the base map
  
• Fit a switch to the PCV to enable/disable autotune manually
  
• Put your economy AFR table into the PCV
  
• Go riding, and use your switch to flick between your base map and the trim tables as and when you want economy
  
• Never roll the trims into the base map when using the economy AFR table
  

[coderighter]

Because these maps are for bikes that have the O2 sensors disabled and don't have Autotune (PCIII), they are rich so that Dynojet doesn't get blamed for melting down a motor. With Autotune, those numbers will (should) be leaner. With differences in Map sensors, pressure regulators, temp sensors, and throttle position sensors (all analog devices), these reading will vary between bikes, no two the same.

I've done some Internet-digging and found some forums frequented by tuners. They're saying that they see negative double digit trim values all the time, especially with the AFR values in the range of 13.7-13.8 which is where mine is leaning the heck out of itself. Add the fact that I've got a zero map in, and the -20 values make a lot of sense.

The general advice from the tuners seems to be this:

• Get your base map sorted
  
• Get a performance AFR table put into the PCV
  
• Do a few runs to get the best on-road readings and roll the trims into the base map
  
• Fit a switch to the PCV to enable/disable autotune manually
  
• Put your economy AFR table into the PCV
  
• Go riding, and use your switch to flick between your base map and the trim tables as and when you want economy
  
• Never roll the trims into the base map when using the economy AFR table
  

I was once told from tech support that when the switch was off, the PCV still used the base map with current trims but trims were no longer adjusted. I have been given bad info before so this weekend I'll have to give it a try and see what happens. The manual says-

"A switch can be wired into the PCV to be used to toggle between your base map and learning mode. Any SPST (open/close) type switch can be used. When the switch is OPEN the PCV will be running on the base map. When the switch is CLOSED the PCV will go into learn mode and Autotune will start making fuel trim adjustments."

It doesn't say trims are included, but it also doesn't say they're not.

If you have to take 20% of fuel out of a mixture to get to 13.7, then that means the starting mixture was 11.3? That don't sound right. From a emission stand point, I don't think that would have flown. The most negitive number I have is -10, and thats in that 'cruise' window. The bike runs great and I get a little over 40 MPG, which is pretty good considering I'm 6'4" - 250. I catch a ton of wind. You said the bike runs bad with those numbers, I don't think I'd run it that way.

As a side note, I've seen more amd more info that Honda really uses alot of temp input in the setup of the map. I'm changing my start sampling temp up to 175 and i think I'm going to add a switch to disable the autotune above 200. I think this will help me better define my base map. I do believe a good base map really is the key to this thing.

[kaldek]

If you have to take 20% of fuel out of a mixture to get to 13.7, then that means the starting mixture was 11.3? That don't sound right.

It could be because I'm running 98 RON octane. It's what you would call 95 I believe, and at least here in Australia it is a denser fuel which results in a richer mixture per injector pulse/charge.

Putting in the 98 was probably a dumb idea for the stock target AFRs. Only time and experience will confirm that though.

[Guest GPM]

I've done some Internet-digging and found some forums frequented by tuners. They're saying that they see negative double digit trim values all the time, especially with the AFR values in the range of 13.7-13.8 which is where mine is leaning the heck out of itself. Add the fact that I've got a zero map in, and the -20 values make a lot of sense.

I personally wouldn't be getting too worried about silly trim values at this stage - for the first 500km or so mine were all over the place, I accepted most of them, but like Coderighter suggests above, I fixed up some of the more extreme versions. The longer you run the thing the better it gets. Related to this I think we all start of with a trim focus, caring too much about the values we are getting ride-to-ride - I realise now that it is the trend that is important, not one off values. My graphs in part help show the trend, and with the exception of the 2% throttle ranges (which I'll return to shortly), I am surprised at how 'consistent' it is - between readings there seems to be a pretty even change across the line, which would support Coderighter's views that the ECU puts a lot of emphasis on environmental conditions (eg. a significant change in temps result in a largely uniform shift across the line).

My readings tend to be +/- 15% from 0 - but my bike is largely stock, I expect an aftermarket exhaust and airfilter, for instance, would lean out the bike some (hence Coderighter's being more +/- 10%). That you are getting -20% and it is running bad is what is alarming - the values themselves tend to be a bit mad to begin with. Maybe try pulling the plugs and see what they reveal - I have pulled out the front plugs twice since installing the Autotune to make sure everything is running ok, and both were a nice healthy tan.

2% throttle is the exception, it just jumps all over the place, and I frankly blame this on the decel issue - one fix I have read of is 0-ing the AFR targets for the 2% throttle, and copy the fuel map from the 5% throttle over the 2% fuel map range. I am mighty tempted to try this, but I am more and more keen to try out the vacuum switch. Other throttle positions experience the problem too, but it is normally one cell that stands out easily enough to manually fix.

Speaking of the vacuum switch did you have any luck plumbing your guage onto the vacuum line heading off to the one-way-valve?

On the same topic, Coderighter, what vacuum switch did you use? There seems to be many different (expensive) options on ebay, and frankly I am out of my league when it comes to making the right selection.

I was once told from tech support that when the switch was off, the PCV still used the base map with current trims but trims were no longer adjusted. I have been given bad info before so this weekend I'll have to give it a try and see what happens.

My paper manual that came with the box supports the techs position - but they may have changed it in a firmware update....

Edited March 30, 2010 by GPM