Switchgear locking pin

[Guest mhks73]

I managed to mangle Fotomotos "on the cheap" method of adding tubular bars to my 05 VFR. So I shelled out the $300 for the kit from Spiegler. This is all you get. The quality seems great but it aint much for $300....Damn German engineering farfegnugen!!!

It is an add on type set up the goes over the orignal top of the tripple tree.

I am kinda stuck as to how to locate the hole for the pin in the new set of bars?

Then what happens if I want to move the bars forward or back later? I know I can't put two or three hole in a set of bars can I......can I???

Thanks for the bit of help Foto but I guess I didnt get tall enough risers or bars with enough bend and the bars hit the fork tubes when the top plate was flat on its mount

Again my ??? is how to locate the pin holes on the new bars??

Thanks a million!!

Edited February 22, 2010 by mhks73

[SEBSPEED]

Position your grips where you want them, then tape the controls in place and carefully mark a spot to drill the appropriate hole. The hardest part is deciding exactly where you want the hole to be. Do yourself a favor and don't try to drill the hole with the bar attached to the bike, set it up on a bench so you can clamp it in place. You could drill more than one if you needed to, but I would try not to.

The other option is to grind the locating pin off the control, but I never liked doing that. You'll always have a tiny bit of movement as you use the switches, and personally, I find that annoying.

[JZH]

You'd probably have room to fabricate some angled plates to attach to the outside of the switchgear, possibly slotted, to tighten with a new machine screw into the bars. To make it adjustable, you'd grind down/remove the pins from within the switch pods. Usual problem is adjusting the controls to avoid fouling the fairing on full-lock. Good luck.

Ciao,

[FotoMoto]

Why couldn't you return the risers for higher ones? Also, a hard rubber spacer should have worked too. Suzuki used that method on the old bandit 1200s I had.

Another thought: you could have tried lowering the forks down in the triple a couple of mm's to give you the necessary clearance. Lowering the forks should slow steering but the "power steering" effect of much wider handlebars (as you are about to find out) would have negated that. Anyway, that's all water under the bridge now that you have LSL kit or can you still return it? :comp13:

Adjust the handlebar the way you want, temporarily mount the switchgear tightly but don't strip out the threads and ride it for a while to make sure you are satisfied with the positioning of everything; make adjustments as necessary. Leave switches in place and remove brake/clutch perches so you'll have room to add an alignment index to the bar with a piece of tape. The horizontal line where the two halves of the switchgear come together is a natural reference point to align the tape with. Next, remove switchgear and put a dab of dark grease or similar on the locating pins. Carefully reattach the bottom switch half with the alignment tape and press against bar. Remove and check for the dot. Remove bar, centerpunch the dots, and drill with correct size bit; too large of a hole and switch will move/rock.

Hope this makes sense without pics.

[Guest mhks73]

Thanks for the info Foto but I had to grind into the risers I didnt use, non returnable, and the Pro Taper bars I will just keep. The LSL kit looks promising but its a lot more work. I have all the plastic off plus the dash and fairings for the Signal Dynamics modulator kit. Now Im tearing her further apart to rerun the throttle cables and possil adjust the brake and clutch lines