dogman Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 I read somewhere that disabling the PAIR system could cause the CAT to choke up with carbon deposits due too it not reaching correct operating temperature. Do you think there is any truth in this? I would like to "lose" the CAT but damn, those Motad headers are expensive, and my bike is running beautifully ATM in spite of the CAT. I dont know that I trust myself to gut the CAT, (cheaper option) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forum CEO HispanicSlammer Posted June 17, 2009 Forum CEO Share Posted June 17, 2009 YUP, that is correct. In order for the cat to work correctly it has to have a burnt fuel air mixture at a certain percentage. Running to rich just disables the cat all togther which is why they have O2 sensors on there to lean it out when the bike gets too rich. Of course the Pair adds more air and helps the cat convert the burnt fuel mixture to c02 and less smog. Modifications that Lose the Pair just soot it up, then remove the o2 sensors you might as well gut the cat out and get rid of it cause its useless anway at this point. Or go with a pre 99 era header that doesnt have one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer Madness Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 YUP, that is correct. In order for the cat to work correctly it has to have a burnt fuel air mixture at a certain percentage. Running to rich just disables the cat all togther which is why they have O2 sensors on there to lean it out when the bike gets too rich. Of course the Pair adds more air and helps the cat convert the burnt fuel mixture to c02 and less smog. Modifications that Lose the Pair just soot it up, then remove the o2 sensors you might as well gut the cat out and get rid of it cause its useless anway at this point. Or go with a pre 99 era header that doesnt have one. Orrrrrrrrr.................. PM me........ :huh: Now available because I did this to my original 6th gens. :laugh: Greg :blush: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 '98 headers are the way to go. Not only are they "catless", but they have 43 mm headpipes compared to 41 mm headpipes on 6th Gens. You'll have to get a PC III and run TinyMind's map if you this route. Suppose to be good for about 8-10 more hp. Also, their lighter. Only problem is they are plain steel - not stainless. You'll need to have them ceramic coated or painted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 Greg :fing02: Greg: I think if you had painted them red that would have really looked cool. How is the rattle can paint holding up on the headers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer Madness Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 My prepping sucked and they weren't baked, so they're all black now..... :dry: But the paint is sticking! :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 My prepping sucked and they weren't baked, so they're all black now..... :dry: But the paint is sticking! :fing02: I'm doing the TechLine Coating's "Cil Gen" air dry ceramic on mine. Haven't had a chance to install them yet. Paint seems incredibly tough/durable though on what I've done so far. Be warned though, the fumes have a kick you would not believe. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Ryanme17 Posted June 18, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted June 18, 2009 I'm doing the TechLine Coating's "Cil Gen" air dry ceramic on mine. Haven't had a chance to install them yet. Paint seems incredibly tough/durable though on what I've done so far. Be warned though, the fumes have a kick you would not believe.Pete How much is that option? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogman Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 YUP, that is correct. In order for the cat to work correctly it has to have a burnt fuel air mixture at a certain percentage. Running to rich just disables the cat all togther which is why they have O2 sensors on there to lean it out when the bike gets too rich. Of course the Pair adds more air and helps the cat convert the burnt fuel mixture to c02 and less smog. Modifications that Lose the Pair just soot it up, then remove the o2 sensors you might as well gut the cat out and get rid of it cause its useless anway at this point. Or go with a pre 99 era header that doesnt have one. Orrrrrrrrr.................. PM me........ :491: Now available because I did this to my original 6th gens. :dry: Greg :fing02: You did a great job on your "cut and gut" Did you weld any plates inside to help flow, or just leave as is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer Madness Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 I didn't do anything special to the inside. I figured since the cats allow for exhaust flowby, ie. not tight fit, that I wouldn't realize any amazing net gain. If I ever do this again, or offer the service, I'd cut the bottom out as 1 piece a la Trace for less welds. Now that I know the actual size of the cats, I'd only make the opening as large as necessary to maintain structural integrity and minimalize any possible distortion from the re-weld. I'd also invest in a spot weld remover tool instead of using a small Dremmel to cut them out; smaller holes to fill. Doing it this way does away with the biotch of a job trying to wrench/drag/cut/tear/fold/spindle/mutilate the cats out...... Greg :dry: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogman Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 I didn't do anything special to the inside. I figured since the cats allow for exhaust flowby, ie. not tight fit, that I wouldn't realize any amazing net gain.If I ever do this again, or offer the service, I'd cut the bottom out as 1 piece a la Trace for less welds. Now that I know the actual size of the cats, I'd only make the opening as large as necessary to maintain structural integrity and minimalize any possible distortion from the re-weld. I'd also invest in a spot weld remover tool instead of using a small Dremmel to cut them out; smaller holes to fill. Doing it this way does away with the biotch of a job trying to wrench/drag/cut/tear/fold/spindle/mutilate the cats out...... Greg :wheel: Thanks for the reply. Are you saying that there is space for the exhaust to bypass the cats, so removing them doesnt help much at all? I was also wondering if the housing is stainless steel, ( for welding purposes)or just mild steel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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