My Power Commander 2 For A 1998 Vfr Is Having Issues

[HispanicSlammer]

I was riding home from the TexasMac yesterday, making my way across Kansas when my bike started surging - or rather losing power momentarily then it would go back to normal power. It kept getting worse the longer I rode. Finally it just died on me. I would pull over turn off the key and it would start right up. It would be good for another hour or so. I figured out it was tied to the throttle postion since if I was using my throttle lock on the strait roads in Kansas If I backed off a bit cause I was sneeking up on a car making a turn the thing would die, add some gas and it would jerk and be back up to full power.

I pulled over and just guessed it was my PC2 - unplugged it and took it off and did not have a problem with that anymore. So I am certain my guess was correct I have a PC2 acting up. Perhaps a bad wire or connection on the connector? Or the map is corrupted? It would run fine for miles till I rolled off the gas then it would start in with the jerkyness only at a certain throttle postion - which tipped me off about the PC2 since the maps are based mostly on throttle postion. The thing has over 90,000 miles on it so I cant complain if it has reached its useable life but I dont even know where to start to diagnose a PC2 issue? I am going to check to see if there are any fuel injection system error codes which will point me in the right direction, I already have a notion it could be the throttle postion input since that was where I noticed the problem starting. I would let it run, roll off and and it would act up, roll on again and it would be fine for a while, roll off and it would shut off again?

[Veefer Madness]

Mig:

Currently have similar problems with PCIII Usb. When bypassed, everything is fine.

The FAQ on the site may help...

1) Load a zero map and if it still happens, it still points to the unit.

2)Digital taillights fool the PC into an intermittent power source. They suggest cutting the red line at the plug (only one) and sourcing a direct, switched power source, like the license plate. I tried this using Twad's fuse box. I thought I solved it, but at the worst time, it cut out while turning left onto a highway with and approaching car. All I can say is thank God there was one of those left/right turn center lanes to bail in or I would have been smucked on the other side. So, I lifted my tank and bypassed it again....

3)Also, they recommend that even the smallest cut in the wires/tape can interupt the unit and cause these symptoms, so check and rewrap even the slightest nick(s).

4) I went to Honda's service manual and looked at the trouble shooting and tried the least expensive option first; intermittent kill switch and sprayed the crap out of it with contact cleaner.

Mine's still disconnected since I want to ride while the nice weather's here for a week...

BTW, it would happen about half an hour after, in the low to 4500rpm range most of the time anyways. Then I'd fire it up and it would turn off right away. If I could keep it running, I'd rev the snot out of it, try to get it to 5000rpm, feather out the clutch, and hope for the best.

So, good luck to both of us????

Adios, Amigo!

Greg :biggrin:

[enzed_viffer]

Mine was doing a similar thing: when riding at constant small throttle openings it would just cut the engine for a half second or so then carry on. Sometimes using the horn causes the same thing, just while the horn was used. I disconnected it, then after a week or so, plugged it in again, and just to make sure, reloaded the software and a different map, and plugged/unplugged it a few times to make sure the contacts were good. It's going better than it ever has, apart from the horn thing happening again just the other day.

I intended (sometime...) to find out which wires were power and ground and splice in some directly to the fuse box. Just to make sure there's no problem there.