Throttlemeister - I Knew This Was Going Too Smooth....

[Guest Yosh70]

I ordered and received my Throttlemeisters today and proceeded to install them tonite.

Left side, great.

Throttle side, well, it went ok till I rounded the corners on the center bolt trying to tighten it up.

I believe I'm "adjusting" it incorrect by tightening on the bolt but thats what I get from the instructions?

I had to put an extension on the allen key eventually when I couldnt close the gap anymore to get the throttle to hold.

WTH? It shouldnt have to be like this.....what am I missing?

So tomorrow I'll try to find a new bolt and see what transpires from this thread.

EDIT: Just went out to the garage and tried it again.....this time tapping the piece that goes into the bar a smidge deeper.

The head on the bolt is damaged but I still managed to tighten it and the throttle "seems" to hold....still, seems pretty excessive on how much I have to tighten it tho.

Find out tomorrow a.m. when I take the bike to work if it holds or not.

[marid2apterbilt]

Note.. If it still wont hold the throttle remove 1 of the really thin washers inside...

Lock tite is needed on the Bolt.. Hold throttle meister with one hand Tighten bolt with other, No matter what you do the bolt will only tighten so far due to the spacer stack inside..

The whole unit will still turn/spin but only the throttle locking mechanism will rotate easily..

Hope thio helps.. Sorry to hear of your problems..

[Joker]

That's interesting. I installed a Throttlemeister last night on mine too. Sorry you had difficulty.

The allen screw that secures the mechanism has nothing to do with the adjustment though. Adjusting the locking mechanism has everything to do with positioning the anchor cylinder that slides into the bar. It affects the relative position of the exterior bar end piece. This piece has a piston that actuates when turned. The piston, once positioned correctly, extends to lock against the O-ring fitted onto the end of the throttle tube creating enough friction to hold the throttle tube in place.

The piston only moves about 1/16th inch, so the bar end piece needs to be positioned far enough away from the throttle tube to allow free movement when not actuated, and close enough to be tight against the throttle tube when actuated.

It took me about three attempts before I got the right alignment, but once positioned correctly, the allen screw needs to be very tight. My unit came with Loctite, which I applied to the threads on both sides once everything was adjusted.

Good luck.

[Guest]

I understand how it works and after looking at the instructions last nite, it still mentions "as you tighten the bolt, the gap lessens for the end" which is what I was trying to do.

I tried it this a.m. on my way to work and so far, so good. I havent loc-tited it yet, I want to see if I can get another bolt.

Joker, how exactly did you "adjust" the cylinder inside the bar? I would like it to go even deeper inside (easy now, people) so when I tighten the bolt, I can get the mechanism to hold a bit tighter.

I used a piece of wood and hammered on it a bit to push it more but it didnt seem to move but a hair.

[Joker]

I understand how it works and after looking at the instructions last nite, it still mentions "as you tighten the bolt, the gap lessens for the end" which is what I was trying to do.

I tried it this a.m. on my way to work and so far, so good. I havent loc-tited it yet, I want to see if I can get another bolt.

Joker, how exactly did you "adjust" the cylinder inside the bar? I would like it to go even deeper inside (easy now, people) so when I tighten the bolt, I can get the mechanism to hold a bit tighter.

I used a piece of wood and hammered on it a bit to push it more but it didnt seem to move but a hair.

I found that the inside of the bar needed to be cleaned in order for the cylinder to move within the bar for adjustments. There was a good bit of grit. I used alcohol to swab it out, and after that the O-rings slid inside the bar with steady firm pressure with my hands. When I pulled it out slightly after pushing it in too far, I used the foam packing to cushion a pair of pliers against the end.

[Birdman]

Loctite Loctite Loctite Loctite Loctite Loctite Loctite Loctite Loctite Loctite Loctite Loctite :biggrin:

[Guest]

Loctite Loctite Loctite Loctite Loctite Loctite Loctite Loctite Loctite Loctite Loctite Loctite :biggrin:

Hey thanx for the informative post. :beer:

[wrestler]

I understand how it works and after looking at the instructions last nite, it still mentions "as you tighten the bolt, the gap lessens for the end" which is what I was trying to do.

I tried it this a.m. on my way to work and so far, so good. I havent loc-tited it yet, I want to see if I can get another bolt.

Joker, how exactly did you "adjust" the cylinder inside the bar? I would like it to go even deeper inside (easy now, people) so when I tighten the bolt, I can get the mechanism to hold a bit tighter.

I used a piece of wood and hammered on it a bit to push it more but it didnt seem to move but a hair.

I found that the inside of the bar needed to be cleaned in order for the cylinder to move within the bar for adjustments. There was a good bit of grit. I used alcohol to swab it out, and after that the O-rings slid inside the bar with steady firm pressure with my hands. When I pulled it out slightly after pushing it in too far, I used the foam packing to cushion a pair of pliers against the end.

Hey Joker, What's up? I see you are still working on the bike

[P.J.]

I understand how it works and after looking at the instructions last nite, it still mentions "as you tighten the bolt, the gap lessens for the end" which is what I was trying to do.

I tried it this a.m. on my way to work and so far, so good. I havent loc-tited it yet, I want to see if I can get another bolt.

Joker, how exactly did you "adjust" the cylinder inside the bar? I would like it to go even deeper inside (easy now, people) so when I tighten the bolt, I can get the mechanism to hold a bit tighter.

I used a piece of wood and hammered on it a bit to push it more but it didnt seem to move but a hair.

You shouldn't need to "adjust" the cylinder that Honda installed inside the bar. You adjust the gap between the Throttlemeister and the hand grip by either adding or removing the shims supplied with your Throttlemeister.

That statement in the instructions about the gap lessening when you tighten the bolt is just a warning to let you know that you should tighten the bolt all the way before deciding whether you have the correct number of shims installed.

[Guest]

You shouldn't need to "adjust" the cylinder that Honda installed inside the bar. You adjust the gap between the Throttlemeister and the hand grip by either adding or removing the shims supplied with your Throttlemeister.

That statement in the instructions about the gap lessening when you tighten the bolt is just a warning to let you know that you should tighten the bolt all the way before deciding whether you have the correct number of shims installed.

Wow, not even close.....this is for a 6th gen VFR. Not sure what bike you're talking about.

No matter. I got it all sorted out now. Had to adjust the cylinder in deeper, then, oh oh, too tight. Pulled it out a bit and it seems pretty good now.

Will give it a good test tonite.

Thanx all for the good advice.