Guest Jay_eS_Iye Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 I'm trying to test my charging system since my bike doesn't seem to want to use it (see also beginning of issue.) I tried testing the charging coil but in the manual it says to test the resistance between the yellow wires... but all 3 are yellow. anyhow, I tested all of them, seems ok tho the numbers spiked once in a while so I thought it's ok. I then put my battery back in (12.66v), hooked it up, started the engine and let it start warming up (12v). I then revved it up to 5000rpm, stayed at 12.0v the whole time, down to 11.99 once in a while. So I turned off the engine, removed the 30A fuse from the starter relay switch, turned the key back on and no power to anything. Scratched my head, put the fuse back in, power. Took fues out again, no power. So how do I do this test, I though I was following the instructions to a T (though the manual isn't exactly written for someone that is learning motorcycles). Also, the manual says I have to test the regulated voltage and charging current at the same time, do I? I didn't think so but you never know. Anyhow, help I want to get back on the road and I'm calling tomorrow to suspend my insurance if I can't get it running soon (it's been insured since the end of June and I've made one ride... then it died) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFR FLYER Posted July 25, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted July 25, 2008 I'm trying to test my charging system since my bike doesn't seem to want to use it (see also beginning of issue.) I tried testing the charging coil but in the manual it says to test the resistance between the yellow wires... but all 3 are yellow. anyhow, I tested all of them, seems ok tho the numbers spiked once in a while so I thought it's ok. I then put my battery back in (12.66v), hooked it up, started the engine and let it start warming up (12v). I then revved it up to 5000rpm, stayed at 12.0v the whole time, down to 11.99 once in a while. So I turned off the engine, removed the 30A fuse from the starter relay switch, turned the key back on and no power to anything. Scratched my head, put the fuse back in, power. Took fues out again, no power. So how do I do this test, I though I was following the instructions to a T (though the manual isn't exactly written for someone that is learning motorcycles). Also, the manual says I have to test the regulated voltage and charging current at the same time, do I? I didn't think so but you never know. Anyhow, help I want to get back on the road and I'm calling tomorrow to suspend my insurance if I can't get it running soon (it's been insured since the end of June and I've made one ride... then it died) http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...;showarticle=15 LOTS AND LOTS OF OTHER POSTS THIS PROBLEM! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer swas Posted July 25, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted July 25, 2008 I then revved it up to 5000rpm, stayed at 12.0v the whole time, down to 11.99 once in a while. Your charging circuit is not functioning. I looked at your previous post and the stator looks OK. Bad ones have burnt looking colour rather than just brown, however, the plug and socket you pictured has the first signs of a connection getting too hot (the middle connection) and this will lead to future problems. To determine whether your problem is stator, wiring or R/R you need to follow the procedures outlined in many posts for measuring the volts (a.c. and d.c.) at various points of your electrics. The current to the bike is variable and measuring the voltages will tell you the health of the charging system. :biggrin: See here for plenty of tips and procedures http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showforum=7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 Battery Voltage = 12.8v initially, 12.55 after the fact Charging voltage at Idle = ~12.05-12.1v Charging voltage at 5k rpm = ~12.24v then dropped around 12.1 again Resistance between battery ground and frame ground = 0.02 ohm Resistance between all 3 legs of the stator = 0.9 to 1.0 ohm (only got decimal place on my meter) Continuity between all 3 legs and ground = none AC voltage from stator (with rr Unpluged) at idle = AC voltage from stator (with rr unpluged) at 5k rpm = AC voltage from stator (with rr pluged in) at idle = AC voltage from stator (with rr pluged in) at 5k rpm = DC voltage at the battery side of the +/- rr Connector = 12.05v (wasn't sure how to measure, i measured red to green wire with engine off) DC voltage at the RR side of the +/- RR connector (connector unpluged, measured directly across the red and green wire) at idle = 11.88 DC voltage at the RR side of the +/- RR connector (connector unpluged, measured directly across the red and green wire) at 5k rpm = 11.88 Wasn't sure how to measure the AC voltage from the stator, so if someone can explain I can get those figures. I also noticed when I looked at the starter relay connector, one of the terminals looks burned out, could this cause my problems? IMG_0725.JPG IMG_0726.JPG IMG_0728.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFR FLYER Posted July 26, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted July 26, 2008 pics show several corroded connectors. some of the connectors don't look good but could just be a residue. by your questions i don't think you read the other posts. a lot of time and effort were spent by several members and they did an outstanding job! inspecting, cleaning, checking and fixing including the use of diaelectric grease. thats not to say we all have the same mechanical ability and you may read it and not understand. was this bike included in the electrical recall? maybe one of our other members lives within your range. this can be confusing but its not terribly complicated. keep reading and trying because the alternative is big $$$ to the stealer........... stator is checked ac current at the yellow three pronged connector. best with two people. one runs the bike other makes checks. checks are made between each leg of the connector. ie. 1-2, 1-3, 2-3. volts at idle somewhere around 20ac and about 70 volts ac at 5k. they should measure very close to the same. ATTENTION! 70 volts ac can shock you (mildly) but if grounded could fry wires fast! good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer hondalover Posted July 26, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted July 26, 2008 Think 3-phase electricity for checking the stator AC output. A-B A-C B-C Just call each wire (leg) a letter, it doesn't matter which is which, then take your reading. The burnt starter relay shouldn't effect the charging system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 by your questions i don't think you read the other posts. actually... no. i quickly read what you all said while I was at work but haven't gotten a chance to read through much (don't get much time to myself since i have a 1 month old son now). I'll try and sit down this weekend and get an idea of what I'm doing and post back with what I found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFR FLYER Posted July 26, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted July 26, 2008 CONGRATS ON A SON! most of my friends weren't man enough to have a son................my son is 31 and been in navy subs for 13 years, has a 954 fireblade and two honda 250 track bikes. couple of years ago we rode palomar mtn together.......doesn't get any better than that!!!!!!!!! bikes are kinda like having kids.........a great joy and occassionally a PITA! :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 ok I measured the AC voltage so here's my chart updated now: Battery Voltage = 12.8v initially, 12.55 after the fact Charging voltage at Idle = ~12.05-12.1v Charging voltage at 5k rpm = ~12.24v then dropped around 12.1 again Resistance between battery ground and frame ground = 0.02 ohm Resistance between all 3 legs of the stator = 0.9 to 1.0 ohm (only got decimal place on my meter) Continuity between all 3 legs and ground = none AC voltage from stator (with rr Unpluged) at idle = ~25v AC voltage from stator (with rr unpluged) at 5k rpm = 60-65v AC voltage from stator (with rr pluged in) at idle = ~25v AC voltage from stator (with rr pluged in) at 5k rpm = ~65v DC voltage at the battery side of the +/- rr Connector = 12.05v (wasn't sure how to measure, i measured red to green wire with engine off) DC voltage at the RR side of the +/- RR connector (connector unpluged, measured directly across the red and green wire) at idle = 11.88 DC voltage at the RR side of the +/- RR connector (connector unpluged, measured directly across the red and green wire) at 5k rpm = 11.88 Also, it was very warmed up this time, and with everything plugged back in, I tried retesting the voltage at idle and 5K (I didn't have a completely full charge but decided since it was running to try it out). And I watched the voltage started dropping, no matter if the engine was revved up or not, so it's definitely not charging. So I got the measurements, but I honestly don't know how to read them. Looks like the AC voltage is good since it's over 50, and both RR plugged in and notplugged in match, good or bad? I've read alot through the threads this morning but maybe I'm missing something, but like I said, I don't know much with bikes or electrical or in this case both. So if someone can give me an idea of where to start with all the measurements done hopefully I won't have to take it into a shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFR FLYER Posted August 17, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted August 17, 2008 the good, the bad and the ugly.....................(good) stator appears to check out ok. (bad) is all the green and nasty looking connections........(ugly) is that you cannot determine whether or not you R/R is bad until you get those connections clean or replaced. some of the bigger connections like the battery ends can be cleaned and soldered. (dirty and corroded wires and connectors will not solder). go to radio shack or and electrical supplier like Fry's and buy and try some of the spray cleaners. WARNING: all these cleaners will burn your eyes like fire. if you get it in a cut or scratch on you, you will cut that part off to stop the pain! AND it will destroy paint, plastics and rubber and everything else! Otherwise its great stuff........... while your buying the cleaner, get some di-electric grease. i am guessing but if you haven't bought a new R/R, do it now! its been almost a month since this post started. i had hoped you would have been riding, mines still down :pissed: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 the good, the bad and the ugly.....................(good) stator appears to check out ok. (bad) is all the green and nasty looking connections........(ugly) is that you cannot determine whether or not you R/R is bad until you get those connections clean or replaced. some of the bigger connections like the battery ends can be cleaned and soldered. (dirty and corroded wires and connectors will not solder). go to radio shack or and electrical supplier like Fry's and buy and try some of the spray cleaners. WARNING: all these cleaners will burn your eyes like fire. if you get it in a cut or scratch on you, you will cut that part off to stop the pain! AND it will destroy paint, plastics and rubber and everything else! Otherwise its great stuff........... while your buying the cleaner, get some di-electric grease. i am guessing but if you haven't bought a new R/R, do it now!its been almost a month since this post started. i had hoped you would have been riding, mines still down :pissed: Nope, the past month has been month 2 of my son's life and it's been quite a month (worth not riding, but not much ) Well I took this news the same way I did when the AC voltage came out ok, unrelived... having a known problem would be so much better than an unknown one. Not completley sure what needs to be soldered exactly, but I'll try to search for it (unless you feel sorry for me and put into 4th grade level for me), but I'll go try and pick up some cleaner this week(end) and the grease. As far as the R/R goes, after cleaning the connectors will I be able to test again and see if it's bad or should I plan to replace anyhow? I've read so much different opinions, OEM, aftermarket, Yamaha... what would be the best route to go, since I know the one on my bike it enclosed and doesn't even have fins to cool. I had see a site alot of people recommended a while back so I'll have to fish for it. Thanks and hopefully I'll get answers soon enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 From what I can see, I would guess your R/R is shot. When you check A/C voltage from the Stator, be sure to test each of the yellow wires agaist each of the others...as said before: A-B A-C C-B Each should yield 50-70 VAC at 5K RPM. I am betting the rectifier portion of your R/R is what is bad, easily tested with another R/R from a friends bike, or less easily by buying another R/R($115). I would also suggest fixing that bad starter relay connection, as any bad connection is a bad idea. Upgrade the charging system wiring while you are at it, and you should be riding in no time. Congrats on the little one, my youngest is now 6 weeks old....the time just flies! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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