Motad Ss/c-less Header & Remus Ti

[didit]

Well, after much snow and shipping and reading it's finally done. Just finishing off Radar's sliders this weekend and putting the insurance on Saturday.

There have been many other installs detailed here, so this will be a brief summary of the events that took place from April 11 - Now.

Names have been changed to protect the innocent.

Okay, started with stripping the bike, down to the stealer for said wiring harness re/re. They appreciated it showing up naked.

I appreciated their work and dropped them off a box of Tim Horton cookies.

From here off to my mechanic buddies house - lets call him . . . . . Steve.

1 Whats going on.JPG

Here is what is going to replace the factory exhale. The Motads came with the 02 censor hole plugs and a centers stand stop.

2 On the bench draining oil.JPG

Here she sits, dripping out the old oil as we sum up what we are about to do.

3 rear exit before.JPG

Locate the header bolts and remove (already removed the exhaust previously - easy as pie).

4 down pipe clamps.JPG

Gave the conector clamps a shot of WD. Snapped one bolt.

6 rear after.JPG

Here we have the stock pipes removed, as previously mentioned, they came off quite nicely. Had to also do one hidden nut/bolt on top of cat and the whole

assemly just dropped. A little wiggle to remove from between the center stand and . . .

7 front removed.JPG

Hey Steve, whacha . . . my mechanic doesn't drink beer - so no beer consumed for glory shot.

8 stock removed 15lbs.JPG

All assembly removed, weighing in at a whopping 15 lbs (had wife stand on scale and hold - she tears out at 83lbs).

9 Motads going on 4lbs.JPG

New pipes slide into place real easy (no cat in the hat) and with new gasgets in place ($12 - 4 from dealer) on go the nuts. Weighing in at (forgot to weigh, maybe 4lbs? No sh!*).

Here is where we hit a stall. Below are the clamps that Anitori sent with the kit. I contacted Steve (Larson not mechanic) and still waiting for makeup swag.

10 b 1 day stall clamp.JPG

10 1 day stall.JPG

We tried everything to repair it but it's a tight fit and just wouldn't go on. Delay of game penalty, one night. Continued Tuesday.

11 stock gutted off 18 lbs.JPG

With the stock pipes already removed, weighing in at 18 lbs (gutted at that)

12 Remus going on 11lbs.JPG

The new Remus were all ready to go on (11 lbs). With the angle I wanted on the pipes, the attached allen bolts were / are really tight to get to.

Still need to pick up a stubby allen wrench and snug better.

13 exhaust complete 1.JPG

14 exhaust complete 2.JPG

With all in place and back at home, now it's just a matter of the final cleaning, finishing the sliders and reassembly.

I can feel a slight exhaust leak where the Remus down pipe connects. It comes with an allen bolt attached so I'll have to visit Steve for possible solutions to that.

The final image (for now) with a video sound clip for good measure.

16 exhaust complete 4.JPG

I'll post another one, out of the garage and fully dressed once I get there. Need to do a little search for some rubber gromets for the slider holes.

Hope you enjoy!

The headers are way light and much prettier. Can't wait for a good test ride - will continue report from there. Also, will be trying a few different maps I have

for catless headers / K&N / PCIII / Remus combo.

[AussieinUSA]

Nice write up with pics, keep us informed on how she runs :goofy:

[Stéphane]

Very cool, Tony! Quite the setup. I've got to say I'm a tad jealous.

As for your collar, use the old pipe to "model" it. Rubber mallet, if you have one, tap it gently until it shape comes back.

[didit]

Jealous? You started this last year. Your bike was lighter and zippier than my bike.

Thanks for the tip though - have to check if Steve has a rubber mallet.

[cpkelly]

nice setup :goofy: ....exhaust sounds sweet. Curious to know what kind of increase in HP you get?

[didit]

Thinking about a dyno, but not sure. If I do, I'll get a custom map made too.

More so, about the 15+ lbs it dropped in weight. Now, if I could do the same :goofy:

[didit]

Well, I've been out for a couple of good rides and boy am I happy. The sound is great, not too loud but just a nice rumble.

Really lets out a bark over 10,000. Really notice the torque increase, as without trying the front has come up with some quick roll-on from a stand still.

Once I feel more confident and in a controlled area, I'll see if I can bring it up a little more (under video).

Oh ya, also completed a rad flush. Removing the large bottom hose works really slick!

Second note: the dealer zapped the new front wiring harness to two mounting holes for the inside front l&r panels. That will be fixed on the next

fairing strip down.

This pic shows the reassembled product, including Lobster's mirror extenders, Radar's sliders, CPKelly's smoked DB screen and my little tail pack mode.

(the top zip on section of my JoeRocket tank bag fits just nice, secured with strapping. Exactly what I was looking for).

Finshed, assembled and ridden

Yesterday I was out for the "Spring Run Off", a local charity ride. Had a great day.

Afterwards, stopped in at my buddies shop, where he offered me a dyno run for $50. Obviously I said no. Ya, right.

Here are the results.

Dyno run results

May be a little hard to read. Results were 99.82 bhp at the rear wheel, and 53.89 ft/lb torque.

Would have hoped for 105 or so, but the tech said the torque curve is really good and that the map (Coyze's) is just about perfect.

My rubber was quite worn, so much so the first run the bike slipped off the drum. As I am looking at getting new tires real soon, plus

putting on a 45 rear sprocket and new chain, we'll overlay the results of the next dyno to see what's what.

All in all, I'm really happy with my VFR. Doing the things to it for me. Thanks to everyone for the years input, resources and work on this site.

[Snafu]

Lets say I installed the o2 eliminators and the Motad Header but didn't install the PC3 yet. Would the bike run like crap?

[didit]

For my humble knowledge, I wouldn't think you'd install the O2 elim without the PCIII. That's part of it's necessity.

I don't think it would run like 'crap', as you are opening up the exit flow of exhaust. I had the PCIII last year, with Cozye's map from the start.

There are others more experienced and mechanically suited to best answer this one.

By the way, the headers came with the ports for the O2 sensors (and the plugs). They should read the same as they are before the cat.

On a side note, another re-confirming the great service from Steve at Anitori - just received word of some swag arriving. Thanks man!

[kaldek]

Lets say I installed the o2 eliminators and the Motad Header but didn't install the PC3 yet. Would the bike run like crap?

I would say it would run worse. The ECU is primarily an open loop system and will not self adjust for better airflow. Ergo, I'd say without a PCIII programmed for the bike with the headers installed your engine would run lean due to the extra air. How lean? Well, probably not THAT much - the cat restricts the airflow somewhat but not a HUGE amount I'd wager.

When you are using small throttle openings, the fuel mixture is based on a reading from the MAP sensor (manifold pressure/airflow). At greater throttle openings it's pre-calculated based on volumetric efficiency, so on a bike with the catless headers it might feel weird as you wind the throttle on. Your best bet is to get the PCIII first. For one, it can provide benefits on a stock bike. Second, when the bike is modified with catless headers a custom map to suit the better airflow can be created.

Note that the O2 sensors on the VFR allow the ECU to go into closed loop (automatic fuel adjusting) mode, however this only happens at part throttle cruise to reduce emissions during these times. By using O2 eliminators the ECU effectively stays in open loop mode forever. If the VFR ECU was a *fully* closed loop system it would be great, as any changes to the engine which assisted airflow would result in automatically adjusted fuel maps. You would also gain benefits from running higher octane fuel if the closed loop system included ignition advance control. However you would need to keep your O2 sensors in. But since that's not how the Honda PGM-FI system works, this is all irrelevant.

[kaldek]

I don't think it would run like 'crap', as you are opening up the exit flow of exhaust.

As per my above post, you can't really rely on that being the outcome with an EFI system. Electronic Fuel Injection is only as smart as they make it; and with regards to adjusting itself to changes in airflow the Honda PGM-FI system is more stupid than a carburetor.

Truth be told, nothing is really as elegant as a carburetor with regards to what it does and the amount of parts inside. To get anywhere near the same level of capabilities, an EFI system requires many sensors and the ability to adjust. Of course, having said THAT a good EFI system completely overshadows the capabilities of a carburetor. In comparison, the early '80s digital EFI systems were rather stupid.

Some of the things I like about truly modern EFI systems (still waiting to see a good one on a bike) such as the Ford Blackwood ECU are:

• Fully closed loop operation
  
• Detection of higher octane fuels and adjustment of ignition map to suit
  
• Interaction with turbochargers to allow overboost
  
• Interaction with Automatic gearboxes to control the holding of gears
  
• Timing control over intake and exhaust camshafts
  

Bikes are ahead of cars with the ability to switch between multiple fuel maps though. Not sure why cars don't have these yet!

[didit]

See, I told you someone smarter than me would have a better answer.

[Guest]

I've eliminated the O2 sensors with the resistor, along with the flapper and de-snorkle mods, K+N air filter and Micron pipes, NO PCIII and the bike runs awesome. Just lucky? Maybe.......

We'll see what happens when I gut the cat.

[Snafu]

This is why I love this site. Thanks for the info guys! Great pics as well. Now I'll know what I'm getting into as I take the stockers off.

[enzed_viffer]

I ran my 5ht Gen (2001) with O2 Sensor elminators, Staintune and Unifilter, and no PC, and it ran fine - better than with the sensors connected, as there was no lean surge and no hesitation (where previously there was a slight delay while the bike switched from closed loop to 'normal'). The mapping's not perfect, but not too awful, and definitely not as lean as closed loop.

[didit]

Well, now everything is complete (ya right), with the new Pilot Road 2CT's on, new sprockets with a 45 tooth in the rear and a 530 RK chain that I had from last year. Also put in the new Galfer break pads. Some interesting spacers were on the back that wouldn't fit with the new pads.

When looking at the stock chain and sprocket wear, the change wasn't really neccessary as everything was in good shape, at 23,000 KM.

Lots of gunk to clean out from the sprocket cover but nothing that looked out of the norm.

NOTE: When changing or removing the cover, be sure to 'gently' replace the speed sensor lest yee be like me and it gets pushed back on the pin to really

give whacked readings. A little adjusting with a screwdriver and all is good.

The torque response is definitely improved as I must be careful now in first and second for the front to come up with heavy roll on.

Third & fourth pulls really well. Haven't been out for a long ride to try out the bottom gears, but I am sure it'll be good.

Feels like the girl got a new set and is all pretty again - feeling like a revitalized bike for sure.

Sprocket Center 45t Rear with new RK530 chain

A little adjusting to the rear tensioner and everything fit in place like magic. Checked the slack to 30mm.

All in all, very happy with the results of the entire process. Learned alot. Got dirty. Love my VFR.