Where To Measure?

[hondalover]

I finally got off my duff and set my sag on my Viffer. The friend that helped brought up this question. When measuring for the front sag we used Slammer's method and used the zip-tie on the fork tube. But, should the measurement be taken completely vertically, as in maybe from the bar end weight to the ground? IIRC the sag is a percentage determined by the amount suspension travel. Which means the zip-tie method is more accurate as it directly follows the fork travel. Please let me know if I did this correctly. BTW, the bike feels 100% better when hitting a corner, I can't believe I went this long without adjusting.

[Stéphane]

Download the sag2.xls spreadsheet from my signature. It'll do all the calculations for you.

462 downloaders can't all be wrong. :cool:

[BrittC]

I went through the sag measurements and setting preload last weekend. I was aiming for 32mm of sag at both ends. I got the rear end right on, but even with the front preload cranked all the way in, the lowest amount of sag I can get is 40mm.

After doing some research, I have discovered that for my weight I will need heavier front springs to get the sag right.

I am not an aggressive rider and I am not in a position to put money into my suspension right now anyway. So my question on sag is, if a big rider can't get the front end down to 32mm of sag, should they back off the preload on the rear so it sags the same amount as the front end (40mm) at maximum preload?

It seems like maybe it would be better to be equal at both ends even if the sag is a higher measurement than optimal...

[Rice]

I went through the sag measurements and setting preload last weekend. I was aiming for 32mm of sag at both ends. I got the rear end right on, but even with the front preload cranked all the way in, the lowest amount of sag I can get is 40mm.

After doing some research, I have discovered that for my weight I will need heavier front springs to get the sag right.

I am not an aggressive rider and I am not in a position to put money into my suspension right now anyway. So my question on sag is, if a big rider can't get the front end down to 32mm of sag, should they back off the preload on the rear so it sags the same amount as the front end (40mm) at maximum preload?

It seems like maybe it would be better to be equal at both ends even if the sag is a higher measurement than optimal...

Yes, Both should be the same if the bike is to be balanced.

40 is not that bad. It's just softer, which is fine if you're not an aggressive rider.

I have installed heavier springs in front, BUT have no one to help me set the damn sag! :fing02:

Mrs. Rice would have none of it :beer: and my friends are all too busy... :goofy:

[SLO97VFR]

I got the rear end right on, but even with the front preload cranked all the way in, the lowest amount of sag I can get is 40mm.

So my question on sag is, if a big rider can't get the front end down to 32mm of sag, should they back off the preload on the rear so it sags the same amount as the front end (40mm) at maximum preload?

Dont you need to reduce your pre-load in order to lower your sag settings? Seems like cranking them down is only making things higher and stiffer??

[Baileyrock]

I got the rear end right on, but even with the front preload cranked all the way in, the lowest amount of sag I can get is 40mm.

So my question on sag is, if a big rider can't get the front end down to 32mm of sag, should they back off the preload on the rear so it sags the same amount as the front end (40mm) at maximum preload?

Dont you need to reduce your pre-load in order to lower your sag settings? Seems like cranking them down is only making things higher and stiffer??

No, the more you "pre-load" the spring the lass sag you will have! It's taking away free play.

Britt, I too would back off the rear 1 or 2 notches of preload(is it max to attain 32mm?)

If your over 175 lbs or so the stock springs are to soft, but if you don't plan to replace the springs anytime soon you can always add a longer pre-load spacer in the fork tubes. This will help you get closer w/o maxing out the adjuster. You can use PVC pipe to make longer spacers then the steel stock ones. Just cut some PVC 5-10mm longer then whats in it now. Do one side at a time and the forks won't collapse. :fing02:

Yes, measure front Sag from the top of the fork seal to the zip tie after you sit on the bike with full gear on.

You can just put the bike on the center stand to check it afterwards, just don't bounce around.

[jasonsmith]

... you can always add a longer pre-load spacer in the fork tubes. This will help you get closer w/o maxing out the adjuster. You can use PVC pipe to make longer spacers then the steel stock ones. Just cut some PVC 5-10mm longer then whats in it now. Do one side at a time and the forks won't collapse. :fing02:

Yes, measure front Sag from the top of the fork seal to the zip tie after you sit on the bike with full gear on.

You can just put the bike on the center stand to check it afterwards, just don't bounce around.

Baileyrock are you talking about the "spring collar" thats shown on page 13-20 in the pdf manual? I am 225lbs and may need to do this mod for the time being. Would this essentially reduce your total travel by the extended amount?

[Baileyrock]

... you can always add a longer pre-load spacer in the fork tubes. This will help you get closer w/o maxing out the adjuster. You can use PVC pipe to make longer spacers then the steel stock ones. Just cut some PVC 5-10mm longer then whats in it now. Do one side at a time and the forks won't collapse. :fing02:

Yes, measure front Sag from the top of the fork seal to the zip tie after you sit on the bike with full gear on.

You can just put the bike on the center stand to check it afterwards, just don't bounce around.

Baileyrock are you talking about the "spring collar" thats shown on page 13-20 in the pdf manual? I am 225lbs and may need to do this mod for the time being. Would this essentially reduce your total travel by the extended amount?

Don't have the pdf manual and too lazy to download it just to look at this pic, can you cut and paste it?

The spacer sits atop the spring usually with a washer on each end. Easy to get to, just support the front of the bike and remove the fork cap(after loosening the top pinch bolt) the spacer is the first thing under the cap(washer ?), measure it and cut a new spacer 10mm longer to start (for your weight). I don't think the spring will bind(fully collapsed) by adding a 10mm longer, but if it did it would only be at 5mm or less from full compression.

Most spring kits come with spacer tubes that you cut to length for your specific app.

BTW these a "How to" by HS here somewhere detailing how to make your stock springs firmer by cutting off certain coils. Search that one out! The correct springs would be best, but HS method works and this longer spacer method would be the least effective of the 3, but would help some. :goofy: