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jasonsmith

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About jasonsmith

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    Factory Team Rider

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  • Location
    Vancouver, BC, Canada.
  • In My Garage:
    2007 RWB 25th

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  1. I recently had my stator go with close to 50k kmh on my 07. After searching around for options I thought I'd try Custom Rewind and I'm quite happy I did. All three stator segments were going to ground and they were all reading around .5 ohms. On run up at idle two of the three were only around 10v AC, one was around 20v AC. Not much of a change at 5k rpm. I called CR and spoke with Kirk who quoted me $100 for a full rebuild with whatever mods they do to make it run cooler. I mailed it on June 3rd, it arrived Friday the 6th, they had it done and mailed on the following Tuesday. Kirk made of point of telling me that they would get it done quick as a bike sitting in the garage in the summer is no good, that's awesome! I picked it up this morning and got this: I was very happy with the end product, looked quite nice. Install went fine, feeding the cable on removal was much more difficult than feeding it back through on install. I did build up the end of the connector with tape to form a tapered end so when pulling it through it wouldn't catch on anything. I should say that all my connectors looked excellent, no signs of burning, melting or corrosion so all I did was re and re the stator. End result: I'm very happy knowing that the install isn't too hard and that for only $100 there's a hope that it will be a good product. Kirk at Custom Rewind was a super guy, very patient and helpful.
  2. I guess a lot of it depends on your riding position and where the windstream is getting you in the first place. I recently stuck on the MRA screen as well and it is doing the job nicely. I used to get almost all clean air to my helmet except for the lower chin. Now I get wind all over but much slower. Zero wind to the upper body now too which is where the most comfort is at. I can see that being in all clean air may be nice but will it still be good after 400miles.
  3. You are correct, I totally got that backwards, the force will increase a lot quicker with less air. I still don't think the air does anything other than controlling the bottoming of the forks though. The air needs to be compressed for it to do anything past the springs and valving that are already in there. I think it has very little to do with the "balance" of the bike but is a great tool for tuning the bottom of your fork travel and brake feel. edit: added "and valving".
  4. Your actual weight on the forks when you do a stoppie is dependent on the angle of your stoppie and the inertia that you built up prior to your stoppie as well as a bunch of other dynamic factors. It can't be calculated that easy in my opinion. Your air chamber upon your fork compression compresses, just like in hydraulics. If you have enough air to compress to a higher level, the force of the air on the surface area of your oil in your shock combined with the spring pressure can easily overcome the minor weight of you and bike. The less air the less it will compress upon fork compression the less it will fight back. The more air the more it will compress and the more it will fight back upon compression. This thread to me has been mostly about the "balance" of a bike more so than tuning per se, but being such an awesome thread it may be a good idea to talk about the air a little bit.
  5. Sounds good! :fing02: I just installed a Penske on my street Vtec with a 1150 lb spring. With 10mm of pre-load I got 32-33mm Rider sag(in gear) with 9.5mm of free sag, pretty happy with those numbers and I weigh 185-190 at the moment! Finally changed my fork fluid after 40k miles! :blink: Now I just need to got out on it and work of rear shock settings. :wheel: My Ohlins has the a 1050 lb spring and I think I got 10/32mm on it? BR .90/1050 for 185-190 sounds bang on. oh I so need to put my 1200# in.... just don't wanna take it apart again. I think I'll loose 15 lbs, may be easier.
  6. I sure wish there was a nicely laid out spreadsheet that showed what parts work with what. There seems to be healthy assortment of options for USD forks but all the other bits and what works with what.... :mellow:
  7. MadFrog if you did your fork valving yourself you may have noticed that RaceTech's compression valving recommendations covers a few different spring rates based on the style of riding. The rebound valving is usually set to the spring but as Kevin stated above just throw in a set of less stiff springs and see how it feels. I'm not sure what oil weight your currently using but you could always thin it out a bit if the ride isn't what you want and you really don't want to take it apart again. I'm running .95kg and I am 220lbs, they are perfect for me.
  8. Yes, you are right in range. Maybe slightly low on the spring rate, but close enough to not spend another $100 on another spring. Unlike Jason who has a 1200lb to slap on his, I'd like to see what numbers he gets after that change. :rolleyes: I weigh 190 and us the same 19kg spring. BR I got my shock back after the leak and Elka did good by me. Quick free service. I stuck it back in with the 1100# and got 35mm with 9mm free. I also checked the numbers with my bags on and loaded and only lost 3mm of sag. 3 clicks cured that on the pre-loaded. I'll put the 1200# in at the end of the month Maybe and most likely keep it in. Right now the ride is amazingly awesome, can't believe it's so nice after a 28% increase in spring rate. Good valving makes all the difference.
  9. jasonsmith

    jasonsmith

    My pics to share.
  10. Three words - BRAKES, BRAKES, BRAKES... VFR brakes are fine, until you try serious brakes. All the other benefits of the USD fork swap (increased stiffness, lower unsprung weight, closer tolerances reducing play, more adjustability, better selection of aftermarket upgrades, good looks...) are just extra benefits :wheel: Sold!!!! I'm going to blame this all on you just so you know.
  11. One question I always ask myself when I see one of these threads is, are the VTEC forks really that bad? I find the swap to upside downs with full adjustments very intriguing.
  12. JD if I take your 1270# and divide that by 250 I get 5.08. If I take that 5.08 and x by my 220# I get a 1117.6 spring which is very very close to being right. I think 1250# would be right for me for about 30mm rider sag. Also if I take the average Honda designed rider of 170# and x 5.08 I get 863# spring which is very close to what Honda seems to have calculated. 5.08 kinda seems like a magic number but it doesn't follow the rest of the numbers on your table. Curious, what rider sag number is your target?
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