Guest JohnC Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 After a new stator and two new regulator/rectifiers, my 5th gen is still severely overcharging. 16+ volts at idle, almost 18 at 5k rpm with the brights on. I've cleaned grounds, and ran a wire directly from the R/R output to the positive terminal of the battery, with no reduction in voltage. While I'm happy to ride around an undercharging issue by putting the battery on the trickle charger every night, the thought of boiling it between my legs every ride isn't very appealing. Any suggestions on what to check next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFR FLYER Posted May 4, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted May 4, 2007 After a new stator and two new regulator/rectifiers, my 5th gen is still severely overcharging. 16+ volts at idle, almost 18 at 5k rpm with the brights on. I've cleaned grounds, and ran a wire directly from the R/R output to the positive terminal of the battery, with no reduction in voltage. While I'm happy to ride around an undercharging issue by putting the battery on the trickle charger every night, the thought of boiling it between my legs every ride isn't very appealing.Any suggestions on what to check next? first i would go thru the entire checklist as layed out in the "how-to" section for electrical in the 5th gen forum. list all the voltages and resistence numbers. next list all the parts by brand OEM AND PART NUMBER or aftermarket for the r/r and stator. there are three oem stators and r/r's fit the 5th and 6th gen. the early crappy discontinued usually end in D01 (which is still sold by some). ever heard "garbage in garbage out" to track down the problem you need good numbers with all the other info. good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer keithbob Posted May 4, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted May 4, 2007 Have you tried checking it one more time with a different voltmeter? Possibly it's not accurate? Just a thought I had, good luck. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 first i would go thru the entire checklist as layed out in the "how-to" section for electrical in the 5th gen forum. list all the voltages and resistence numbers. next list all the parts by brand OEM AND PART NUMBER or aftermarket for the r/r and stator. there are three oem stators and r/r's fit the 5th and 6th gen. the early crappy discontinued usually end in D01 (which is still sold by some).ever heard "garbage in garbage out" to track down the problem you need good numbers with all the other info. good luck! As for parts, the stator was a rewind from Rick's. The first replacement R/R was a generic unit (also from Rick's) that didn't have the black voltage sensing wire. The second replacement R/R was a 31600-MBG-306 from Service Honda. All of these parts have gone on in the last month, and I haven't been riding at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 Have you tried checking it one more time with a different voltmeter? Possibly it's not accurate? Just a thought I had, good luck. Good call Keith. If its the damn multimeter, I'll scream - having missed a solid month of great riding weather... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFR FLYER Posted May 4, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted May 4, 2007 Have you tried checking it one more time with a different voltmeter? Possibly it's not accurate? Just a thought I had, good luck. Good call Keith. If its the damn multimeter, I'll scream - having missed a solid month of great riding weather... i too ride the 5th gen and have fixed this problem on others........my turn hasn't happened YET! i would still go through the checklist now and get a record of the readings so you have a good base info if anything else comes up.........I HOPE NOT! best, chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer rbertalotto Posted May 4, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted May 4, 2007 "first i would go thru the entire checklist as layed out in the "how-to" section for electrical in the 5th gen forum" Where would I find this "How To"section.............Anyone got a link? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer chris2992 Posted May 4, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted May 4, 2007 and ran a wire directly from the R/R output to the positive terminal of the battery, Don't do this. You successfuly bypassed the 30a main bike fuse. You now have full battery potential on the bike side of the battery, not good. At this point, dead short somewhere means big fire and no more bike. Secondly, if you are over charging, why would you want to increase the charging capeabilites of the bike. I would say you still have a bad RR. What order did you change the stators and RR's in? See, in the featured mods, my R1 RR thread. Much cheeper than an oem unit and works 10x better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 and ran a wire directly from the R/R output to the positive terminal of the battery, Don't do this. You successfuly bypassed the 30a main bike fuse. You now have full battery potential on the bike side of the battery, not good. At this point, dead short somewhere means big fire and no more bike. Secondly, if you are over charging, why would you want to increase the charging capeabilites of the bike. I would say you still have a bad RR. What order did you change the stators and RR's in? See, in the featured mods, my R1 RR thread. Much cheeper than an oem unit and works 10x better. I completely agree regarding bypassing the fuse. That was a quick check (per a troubleshooting guide) to make sure the connection between the R/R and the battery was as short and clean as possible. That line is no longer there. So, in order, its been: Rick's stator, original R/R, Rick's R/R, new OEM R/R. The bike hasn't actually been ridden at all during this time, just warmed up to check the voltages. Thats 3 R/R units - you really think they're all bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer chris2992 Posted May 4, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted May 4, 2007 In that case, no probably not. Maybe a flywheel. Do this, Battery Voltage = 12.3v Charging voltage at Idle = 13.2v Charging voltage at 5k rpm = 12.1v and lower as time goes on. Resistance between battery ground and frame ground = 0.1 ohm Resistance between all 3 legs of the stator = 0.3 - 0.4 ohm Continuity between all 3 legs and ground = none AC voltage from stator (with rr Unpluged) at idle = 19.6v AC voltage from stator (with rr unpluged) at 5k rpm = 65v AC voltage from stator (with rr pluged in) at idle = 11.2v AC voltage from stator (with rr pluged in) at 5k rpm = 4.2v DC voltage at the battery side of the +/- rr Connector = Identical to battery voltage (Bike off = 12.3v / Bike running = 13.2v @ idle, 12.1v @ 5k rpm) DC voltage at the RR side of the +/- RR connector (connector unpluged, measured directly across the red and green wire) at idle = 0.9v - 1.1v DC voltage at the RR side of the +/- RR connector (connector unpluged, measured directly across the red and green wire) at 5k rpm = 0v - 0.1v Fill that in with your own information. The values given are from my bike with a failed OEM RR. Your values should be different, but that will help to pin point the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 Thanks for the help everyone. I'll respond early next week with the values from my bike - I'm out of town this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 13, 2007 Share Posted May 13, 2007 Here's a twist. I went out today, with Chris' list of measurements and the intention of getting to the bottom of this. I started the bike and let it idle, then got distracted and walked away for ~10 minutes or so. Came back to the idling bike, measured the voltage across the battery terminals, and it was 13.8V. Ran it up to 5k rpm, and it was 14.3V. Not perfect, but not overcharging either. The only thing I can think of is that this is the longest I've ever let it sit between troubleshooting tries, and also the longest I've let it idle before taking measurements (although I have made it sure its up to temp). I'm going to ride it this week and see how it does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer captainchris13 Posted May 13, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted May 13, 2007 hmmm... the voltage is all in the RR or the wires too it if is too high. its not clipping the volts which could be the main pos lead overheating and increasing resistance or its overloaded. 14.3 is great. how old is the battery? could the battery have issues internally like broken plates? for 45$ i got an agm from batteries plus, love it. i used a 6th gen unit, works great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 13, 2007 Share Posted May 13, 2007 14.3 is great. how old is the battery? Battery is a Yuasa that was new last September. I did about 20 miles today just to check it out, and everything seemed fine. I'll post back here if it acts up again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forum CEO HispanicSlammer Posted May 13, 2007 Forum CEO Share Posted May 13, 2007 "first i would go thru the entire checklist as layed out in the "how-to" section for electrical in the 5th gen forum"Where would I find this "How To"section.............Anyone got a link? http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?autocom=ineo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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