captainchris13

When it is that hot you risk head damage. The metal near the exhaust valves is so hot the water is boiling locally there and preventing proper contact of coolant to the metal surface. Running a water wetting agent gains you the ability to get the heat out before it gets that hot. Running straight water gets you additional cooling power over coolant. Then you just need an anti corrosive to prevent it from rusting away. Doesn't work in freezing temps, I keep mine in the garage to solve that. I also popped the little metal bit out of the thermostat (the wobbly crimped pin) for a bit of co

Ya, after seeing a pic on an English forum of an air box FULL of acorns and laughing, I went and checked mine. Yep, acorns, poop, fur... It's happened several times now, I think I'm going to add some rabbit wire to the outside of the snorkel. My bike lives in my garage too, not outside. They also ate some of my tail light wiring insulation, I taped it, but it should probably be replaced.

Careful on that one, with the fan diabled and a tailwind ( happened to me in vegas) you get a zero airflow condition. I used to sell the JB stuff, i can still get it but they have agreements about you van only sell your assigned area. Mailing it out is a no no, but i dont work for them anymore. They are popular in hot rod stuff, and thats theyre main market. Hot rod magazine has done a bunch of heads up testing on a dyno and it always wins. Redline Water Wetter is similiar, but you still need an anti corrosive and lubricant to go with it. Getting rid of the antifreeze alone gives you

Your exactly right, im not argueing that thats whats happening, and you dd a really nice job of explaining and documenting it as well. To simplify it, you have a reduced dumping of thermal energy at low forward speeds due to the fan 'fighting' the air moving across the bike. So the coolant has to be at a higher temp to dump heat. It does dump some heat or the engine would go into runaway overheat, just not enough. When the coolant gets that extra bit hot though is when you start getting hot spots in the head. So it does still cool the motor under that condition but not enough. My

Cool deal on the Fan mods, but its not the problem. The stock fan is adequate, but the coolant isnt. The problem you it is the temp suddenly surges p and won come down till you get some serious air and water moving in there. Ok, so what you really have ( and there is an old thread around here somewhere we hashed it out)is a localized boiling issue in the head area. Whe the water boils on the metal it stops cooln well as the forming steam insulates it from the water. Think of a really hot fry pan, drop water on, the drop just glides around for a long time. If the pan is a bit less hot, th

uh, move? do you love the city or the bike more? choose. i say this because of the stress you put yourself through will shorten your life and make you old before you years.

ya, i was about to ask the same thing. i think the weak link might be the aluminum stubs where they attach to the engine bolt. Why not just have a special hardened bolt made that is longer? that way you could bolt tthe sliders straight to it. aluminum tends to bend and crack and alum threads tend to give up in an impact situation. just a thought.

I just put 30amp fuses in them since thats what the factory harness has in it. The biggest change in voltage from what I've seen on my bike and others is when replacing that 'black' voltage monitor wire from the R/R. Theres a major major progressive resistance problem in that wire somewhere. Someday I want to take the front end off and track that wire down to see exactly whats the problem in the wire from the ignition to the R/R. Mine has a major issue with about 9.3 ohms of resistance from the monitor wire to ignition, which was upping voltage output to 16V +. Since replacing that wire, I can

I still have to sort out how I will rewire this, but I am getting 35 ohms between my R/R and my battery. I think I'm in for a new riding experience soon. 35 ohms!?!?!? you either forgot a decimal point or you have a really bad contact somewhere in your system. At 35 ohms your bike would just stop running in 30 min... Still, if that was .35 than its still high, i like to see roughly .01 cold, and as high as .05 when the wires are hot and the bike has been running for 30 min at speed. when the wires are hot they incrrease their resistance, sometimes it goes up drastically, if the wir

He was having a little trouble getting the shiny aluminum "oil caps" off of the VFR dampers and was concerned that there was something holding them on (press fit, hidden setscrew, magic), unlike the F3 caps that practically fell off of the dampers. He didn't want to force something unknowingly and tear it up. :joystick: I told him that they'll come off with just a little gentle tapping....nothing in particular holding them on, except magic. THEN he'll get to the compression valve circlip, but he's already taken the F3 stuff apart so he's familiar with that process. Well, those sh

Um, yes and yes and no. Yes starting is the most taxing moment the elec sees, and upping the wires might help a bit but not really since they are only carrying load for a few seconds and dont have a chance to get hot and be a resistor. The ground might again help a little depending ont the resistance of your gound circuit under that load (snap on makes a kool tester...) but the limiting factor is probably just your battery. It can only put out so much juice at 12.5v befoe it drops, and drops, and drops... on a dead short it may sit at 6-7 volts for a few seconds before you melt something.

ahhh, its protecticing your main harrness. if you have say your headlight wires short, the 30 fuse will blow saving your entire harness from melting. wires make terrible fusible links as they are usually bundled with other wires which they can melt to in a short failure situation. you would have to increase the wire size from RR to batt, RR to fuse, fuse to main distro point to gain the benefits while still being protected. Sorry, forgot about that fuse when i gave advice earlier, nice catch. Well, and my bike is tucked away in the garage since we have had 4 days of freezing rain and

well, when i did my RR i soldered theyellow leads to the stator eliminating the connector. i also did a button hole tie in for my extra black lead since i used a 6th gen RR on a 5th gen but i soldered it. Always solder. Always. Dont argue about it, just do it. Motorcycles are a harsh envirornment for electrical connections, and you solder for teh same reason you use grease on connectors, not because it helos the connection (it makes it a bit worse actually) but that it does keep it from corroding and therefore makes it stay the same for a long long time. A soldered button hole join

that shorty was way ,loud and he did it to remove crash damage. Someone else drilled theirs on a 5th gen, the gutting was i think a 6th. of course i have everything i need to cut it apart and reweld it so iave beeb thinking about it... chris