Devorlast Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 A little while ago I had some moisture get into the dashboard display and not long after the backlight stopped working. I was wondering if anyone ever did any repairs to theirs. The backlight does not have separate lights, the LEDs are on the circuit board with the rest of the dashboard components. I am attaching the pictures of the board inside, I can't get the dial for the RPM off so I don't have full access to the circuit board. A new board is close to $1000, if I can't get it fixed I'll probably just leave it as is and try to get some auxiliary light set up to illuminate the speed display at least. Looking at the wiring diagram I can't tell which wire is for the backlight, I don't even know if it has a dedicated wire just for that or if it's a power supply line for the whole circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted February 20 Member Contributer Share Posted February 20 Hi Devorlast. The Service Manual doesn't go into great detail regarding the internals of the Instrument Panel. The Ignition Switched power for the panel comes in on the Black/Brown wire, this is the power that would also feed the LED's. The clock or backup power (always powered) is the White/Green wire. The common Ground wire is the Green/Black wire. Looking at the LED's you'll notice the Cathode side of the LED is clearly identified by the letter K next to it. Hopefully all Cathodes will go to the Ground wire for all LED's. You could confirm this with a multimeter for continuity. The other side of the LED's being the Anodes will most likely end up at a voltage regulator or power transistor possibly converting 12v down to 5v or 3v. See if you can power up the panel and measure the Anode voltage at the LED's with reference to the Ground Green/Black wire. NOTE - All the Transistors on the panel are labeled as TRxxx. If the anode voltage is missing? See if you can track the anode side using your meter on continuity mode to locate the voltage regulator. Once you find this device which is normally a 3 legged device you should measure 12v on one leg, Ground on another and the regulated voltage output on the third leg. You might also find an open circuit copper track caused by the moisture ingress wihen doing the continuity checks. Have a very good close inspection of all the copper tracks checking for any sign of moisture damage or corrosion. Have a good look in the areas I've circled in red, zoom in (you may need to refer to your original higher resolution photos) and notice the greenish moisture corrosion around the eyelet and possible moisture marks on the Black component, and again another eyelet looking greenish with corrosion, lower area of the panel. These are examples you want to look for when dealing with moisture ingress. Hope this helps, best of luck. Let's know how you get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devorlast Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 Grum, I saw the corrosion in that spot, I wasn't 100% sure if that was it but after using an extra light as an "x-ray" I got the picture below. My red circle is a bit small but if you zoom in you can see that there is a break in the line connecting the eyelet to the R393. I verified that it's open with my meter. I was wondering if I should try to solder a jumper from the eyelet to either R393 or to the yellow-circled portion of the solder run. I have some soldering experience, but I'm a Navy electrician/engineer, so soldering fine electronics is a bit out of my expertise. I am worried about soldering to the resistor, the small ones can fail when submitted to a soldering iron heat. I do have a variable-temp soldering station and some pretty fine solder tips. On the other hand, I don't think soldering to the printed solder line would even work. recreating the solder line doesn't seem possible either considering how small it is and its proximity to the other two lines. I'm going to do some research on circuit board repair, a new one is $720 on Partzilla, so if I mess this one up Ill just end up spending the money I saved on doing my own fork seals on a new console... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted February 21 Member Contributer Share Posted February 21 Definitely repairable. The open track that is! You need to very carefully, with a sharp blade, scrap away a small section of the green protective coating to expose the copper of the track. Tin this section with solder then carefully solder a piece of tinned copper wire, (kind of like very small gauge fuse wire you would use in a house prior to the invention of domestic circuit breakers) to the copper track. The other end you want to fit through the eyelet and solder it to the eyelet as well at a convenient spot on the other side of the PCB. Early electronic PCB's used to be of wire wrap technology small gauge single strand wire insulated, wrapped around a connecting post. This type of wire would be ideal if you can get it. Suggest using the straight section of track just opposite and slightly below that CL262 point. And yes probably not best to disturb the solder at R393 however that spot could be used as a last resort. Check your repair with a meter making sure you have continuity from the leg of R393 right through to the eyelet and through to the destination point on the opposite side of the PCB. Be careful and good luck, hopefully that open circuit track might be the cause of your LEDs not working. If you're not confident with the repair. See if you can locate a good Electronics Technician with good soldering skills, he should be able to repair the track for you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devorlast Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 I talked to one of my ET buddies and he has a 2M shop next to NAS Oceana. I'm going there tomorrow, he said that he should be able to repair the track without a problem and do the eyelet as well. I'll post an update once we are done, I got the forks back together and on the bike today, so once the console is done all I will have left to do is reassemble the gazillion plastic pieces that make up the fairing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted February 22 Member Contributer Share Posted February 22 Just for info - To remove the Tacho you might have to de-solder the four connections circled in Yellow and bend back the four black tabs near the solder connections, can't guarantee it, I don't have a 1200 but that’s what I think needs doing provided you have definetly removed all possible mounting screws. Keep us posted, and as mentined, look very closely over the PCB for any other open circuit tracks and signs of corrosion like the one found, it appears any moisture damage is in the lower portion of the PCB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titanium2000 Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 You can put a small desiccant pack into to capture the dampnedness. Once it is sealed it may not happen again. We put these in telephone cable boxes to help with damp, then change them frequently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devorlast Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 Below is the fix my buddy did. The track is very small so using the copper foil wasn't going to work. I plugged it into the bike and all of the backlight LEDs come on now. I put some RTD silicone (all I had on hand) in that spot to cover the now-exposed connection and to keep further moisture from gathering there. I did think of using desiccant and gluing a bag inside so it doesn't move around and cause problems. Then again, the only reason I had this issue was cause the bike was outside one winter with fluctuating temps and humidity. I will put something on the rubber boot that covers the console connector, the console itself doesn't have a gasket but it has a pretty long knife edge all around. As for the tach, I figured as much, so I wasn't about to dig that deep and desolder it. I'm sure there is a way to get the dial off unless they put the whole assembly together and then soldered it to the card. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted February 23 Member Contributer Share Posted February 23 That was quick, and the repair was a simple one. Glad it solved the LED issue and didn't cost you a replacement Instrument Panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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