Jump to content

6th Gen Crank No Start No MIL Illumination No Prime


styran

Recommended Posts

While I was riding the motorcycle it lost throttle response. Upon trying to restart the bike it would crank but not restart. Moving the engine cut off to on or off clicks a relay and allows the starter to engage but the MEL does not illuminate for a couple seconds (as it should) and the fuel pump does not prime.  The motorcycle can crank forever and not start. Thus, I have reason to believe the ECU is not turning on.

 

Any pointers on this ECU issue? Has this happened to anyone else before?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, jstehman said:

What's the voltage at the battery terminals and how's the condition of Fuse B down there in the battery tray?

And what's MEL?

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk
 

I checked the ECM power line and its receiving no power. 

I also checked the engine stop relay and it is clicking and works but receiving no power to send to ECU.

I am going to check the fuse next.

The MEL is the red FI light on the dashboard.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
55 minutes ago, styran said:

I checked the ECM power line and its receiving no power. 

I also checked the engine stop relay and it is clicking and works but receiving no power to send to ECU.

I am going to check the fuse next.

The MEL is the red FI light on the dashboard.

 

Good work, follow that power line down to the 18P Blue connector, make sure you measure it both sides of the connector, then move back to Main Fuse B.

Main Fuse B 30amp and its wiring along with the 18P Blue connector are the two weak links for the ECM power source.

Think you mean the MIL - Malfunction Indicator Lamp.

 

Interesting - With a loss of ECM Power, at switch On, the MIL or Fi Light should remain fully ON.

 

EF79D2E6-8E27-4F00-87F3-C99F83E6BE32.thumb.jpeg.09d26801311b53185228c34b60382593.jpeg.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • styran changed the title to 6th Gen Crank No Start No MIL Illumination No Prime
43 minutes ago, Grum said:

Good work, follow that power line down to the 18P Blue connector, make sure you measure it both sides of the connector, then move back to Main Fuse B.

Main Fuse B 30amp and its wiring along with the 18P Blue connector are the two weak links for the ECM power source.

Think you mean the MIL - Malfunction Indicator Lamp.

 

EF79D2E6-8E27-4F00-87F3-C99F83E6BE32.thumb.jpeg.09d26801311b53185228c34b60382593.jpeg.jpg

Ah you are right, it's MIL. My bad, I'll change the title.

 

I checked that exact fuse and the carrier is discolored from heat, part of wire thats from the fuse to the connector is exposed and slightly corroded (green). The fuse itself has bubbles and is appears to be blown. It is evident that fuse got hot. I'm not sure why. I think the fuse blew because the exposed wire touched the frame of the bike.

 

A continuity check verified that the wire leading to fuse goes directly to the engine stop relay. It is also colored the same.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.7b5c94c58dbd658ab75852b65893ef71.jpeg

 

 

I put some liquid electrical tape on the wire although there is still some green surface corrosion left on the exposed part of the wire. Will insulation suffice or should I replace the small wire segment all together?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

You're going to need to replace the fuse holder and chop out the single inline connector.

Use a high quality inline fuse holder capable of 30amp, something like the attached pictures, a local Auto parts store should be able to help you out.

20230326_161950.jpg

Fuse.PNG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Grum said:

You're going to need to replace the fuse holder and chop out the single inline connector.

Use a high quality inline fuse holder capable of 30amp, something like the attached pictures, a local Auto parts store should be able to help you out.

20230326_161950.jpg

Fuse.PNG

Will do, thanks.

Replacing the fuse made everything work again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
1 hour ago, styran said:

Will do, thanks.

Replacing the fuse made everything work again

That's good the Fuse replacement got it going again, but that's only half the issue, without replacing the heat stressed fuse holder and wiring you will be doomed for further failures.

Extremely common failure in both 5th and 6gens. Fix it properly and you'll never see the issue again.

A little bit of this stuff on fuse legs will also help.

 

OX-100B_PKG_01.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.