Member Contributer DannoXYZ Posted May 23, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted May 23, 2023 6 hours ago, bluefunkyg said: Right no power from the ignition when key is inserted and turned, he thinks its something to do with the hiss antenna being at fault. HISS has nothing to do with your issues. Here's generic layout of how HISS is wired into harness. Basically directly connected to ECU. In order for HISS to work, ECU has to get powered on by engine-stop relay. Which is powered by 20a FI fuse through 30a main fuse B. Main 30a fuse A powers everything else through ignition-switch. When key ON, everything should turn on: headlights, clocks, taillight, ECU. THEN when ECU's powered on, it sends power to HISS , which then determines from key, whether ECU should operate pump, injectors and sparks. Even IF HISS disables ECU, you should still have power to rest of bike, headlights, clocks, etc. Your main problem is wiring-short that's blowing 30a fuse B. Fix THAT and bike will run just fine. Has nothing to do with HISS. Takes 5-min to track down and fix wiring wiring-short with multimeter. If your mechanic can't do it, find someone else who knows what they're doing before this guy destroys more of your wiring harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted May 24, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted May 24, 2023 I agree with Danno; my ST1300 has HISS and will turn-over normally on the starter button if I use a non-HISS key but the fuel pump won't run and I presume there is no spark or FI either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluefunkyg Posted May 24, 2023 Author Share Posted May 24, 2023 17 hours ago, DannoXYZ said: HISS has nothing to do with your issues. Here's generic layout of how HISS is wired into harness. Basically directly connected to ECU. In order for HISS to work, ECU has to get powered on by engine-stop relay. Which is powered by 20a FI fuse through 30a main fuse B. Main 30a fuse A powers everything else through ignition-switch. When key ON, everything should turn on: headlights, clocks, taillight, ECU. THEN when ECU's powered on, it sends power to HISS , which then determines from key, whether ECU should operate pump, injectors and sparks. Even IF HISS disables ECU, you should still have power to rest of bike, headlights, clocks, etc. Your main problem is wiring-short that's blowing 30a fuse B. Fix THAT and bike will run just fine. Has nothing to do with HISS. Takes 5-min to track down and fix wiring wiring-short with multimeter. If your mechanic can't do it, find someone else who knows what they're doing before this guy destroys more of your wiring harness. It’s stopped blowing the 30 amp fuse but still no fuel pump noise, lights all work and it turns over . Thanks for that diagram and info though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluefunkyg Posted May 24, 2023 Author Share Posted May 24, 2023 2 minutes ago, bluefunkyg said: It’s stopped blowing the 30 amp fuse but still no fuel pump noise, lights all work and it turns over . Thanks for that diagram and info though. I had a new key cut a while back and the bikes chip incerted ,but that was all going fine until the fi came on mid ride and then it never run again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer DannoXYZ Posted May 24, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted May 24, 2023 Good! Now it's onto real troubleshooting. Key ON: 1. start/stop switch, measure voltage on wht/blk input wire, volts = ??? 2. start/stop= RUN, measure voltage at output wire of start/stop switch, volts = ??? 3. engine-stop relay, measure voltage at trigger blk wire, volts = ??? 4. engine-stop relay, measure resistance between trigger-gnd red/org and chassis-ground, ohms = ??? 5. engine-stop relay, measure voltage at power-input blu/pnk wire, volts = ??? 6. engine-stop relay, measure voltage at power-output blk/wht wire, volts = ??? 7. fuel-cut relay, measure voltage at both blk/wht trigger and power-input wires, volts X2 = ??? 8. fuel-cut relay, measure resistance between trigger-gnd brn/blk wire, start/stop OFF then RUN, ohms = ??? for 4-seconds? 9. fuel-cut relay, measure voltage at power-output brn wire, start/stop OFF then RUN, volts = ??? for 4-seconds? 10. fuel pump, measure voltage at power-input brn wire, start/stop OFF then RUN, volts = ??? for 4-seconds? 11. injectors, measure voltage at each injector-connector, volts X8 = ??? 12. ignition-coils, measure voltage at each igntion-coil connector, volts X8 = ??? Somewhere along path of power-flow, you've got corroded or broken wire somewhere that's stopping start-up process. AGAIN, you need to track down and actually fix problems with wiring, NOT do hillbilly "bypasses" that appear to work, but really doesn't solve anything. Cause & effect are different. "Effect" of fuel-pump not turning on is caused by wiring problem. This wiring fault is why it blows 20a FI fuse in fusebox. It's not just fuel-pump, it powers ENTIRE EFI system: - engine-stop relay - fuel-cut relay - fuel-pump - injectors - ignition-coils - intake solenoid valves - exhaust solenoid valves - ECU, and therefore, all sensors - IAT - TPS - oxygen-sensor #1 - oxygen-sensor #2 - baro sensor - MAP sensor - cam-pulse generator - ignition-pulse generator - HISS system You'd have to run new bypass wires to ALL of these components as well if 20a FI fuse is not connected and sending power properly. Fix actual problem and effects of not running will go away! Again, this is 5-minute fix with multimeter to track down wiring-short so 20a FI fuse stops blowing. Then EFI system will work properly. Or less than 5-min in many cases. BTW - anyone notice error in manual where red & red/wht labels on power wires from battery/solenoid gets switched on way to fusebox??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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