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VFR800 FI won't start


bluefunkyg

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Hi , I need help I have a vfr800 it was running fine the other day and while riding it started to hesitate and then cut out with the fi light on. It has melted the 30 amp fuse at the battery and fuel pump won't run. I replaced the 30 fuse but it keeps blowing the fuel pump fuse when I on swith the ignition on. Any ideas please?

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What's history of this bike?

When was last time it worked perfectly?
What happened between then and now?

Blowing fuses is symptoms or results of actual problem. Fix the problem and fuses won't blow (cause & effect).

 

Why fuse blows is most likely due to short in wiring. Trace fuel-pump circuit starting from battery to fuel-pump end and look for any connections that are not correct. Look for melted-insulation with bare wiring exposed and touching other wires or frame.

 

 

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1 hour ago, DannoXYZ said:

What's history of this bike?

When was last time it worked perfectly?
What happened between then and now?

Blowing fuses is symptoms or results of actual problem. Fix the problem and fuses won't blow (cause & effect).

 

Why fuse blows is most likely due to short in wiring. Trace fuel-pump circuit starting from battery to fuel-pump end and look for any connections that are not correct. Look for melted-insulation with bare wiring exposed and touching other wires or frame.

I had it out to go and get fuel on wednesday , it lay for one year with the battery out. It was running  ok but the green  light for out of gear lit bright as I revved it up the was a brand new rectifier put on few years back. I took it for petrol and noticed on the way home hesitation at 80mph then fi light on loss of  power , but it still turned over.

I got back to find the fuse melted at the battery and the fuel pump fuse blew too.

 

1 hour ago, DannoXYZ said:

 

 

 

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What year is your bike?

When talking "Fuel pump fuse" do you mean the 30amp main fuse B?

 

That Main Fuse B 30amp fuse holder is stuffed and needs replacing. (Use something like attached photo).

 

Make sure there are No added accessories or wiring to this fuse circuit, Main Fuse B 30amp is dedicated EFI power and should Not be messed with.

 

Once the fuse is repaired unplug the connector under the tank for the Fuel Pump. Its a two wire plug with a Green and a Brown wire?

Switch on Ignition, does the fuse blow?

If No reconnect the fuel pump connector, switch on does the fuse blow if Yes, you most likley have a short within the Fuel Pump.

 

There's a good chance the blowing fuse might not be caused by the Fuel Pump! You could use your ohmmeter to measure the short to ground (battery disconnected)then start disconnecting items that hang off the Fuse. It also might be a wiring short! The short may have been at the melted fuse holder itself, shorting to frame!

Once you have it sorted immediately check your charging voltage at the battery.

Fuse.PNG

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3 hours ago, Grum said:

What year is your bike?

When talking "Fuel pump fuse" do you mean the 30amp main fuse B?

 

That Main Fuse B 30amp fuse holder is stuffed and needs replacing. (Use something like attached photo).

 

Make sure there are No added accessories or wiring to this fuse circuit, Main Fuse B 30amp is dedicated EFI power and should Not be messed with.

 

Once the fuse is repaired unplug the connector under the tank for the Fuel Pump. Its a two wire plug with a Green and a Brown wire?

Switch on Ignition, does the fuse blow?

If No reconnect the fuel pump connector, switch on does the fuse blow if Yes, you most likley have a short within the Fuel Pump.

 

There's a good chance the blowing fuse might not be caused by the Fuel Pump! You could use your ohmmeter to measure the short to ground (battery disconnected)then start disconnecting items that hang off the Fuse. It also might be a wiring short! The short may have been at the melted fuse holder itself, shorting to frame!

Once you have it sorted immediately check your charging voltage at the battery.

Fuse.PNG

It’s 2001 and it’s the fuse in the wee black box with all the other fuses for lights etc, the big fuse in the red and green connector in front of the fuses is fine not blown.

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9 minutes ago, bluefunkyg said:

It’s 2001 and it’s the fuse in the wee black box with all the other fuses for lights etc, the big fuse in the red and green connector in front of the fuses is fine not blown.

Ok got it. Your bike is a 5gen, and you are blowing Sub Fuse B 20amp. Correct?

Your Main Fuse B 30amp still needs to be repaired as suggested.

Fault finding is still as mentioned.

 

Do you have a wiring diagram of your bike? You can download the Service Manual from this forum.

Can you use a mulimeter?

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That fried fuse-holder should never have had 30-amp fuse in it. Should be 20-amp only. Since larger-than-designed fuse was installed, it didn't blow quick enough and too much current surged through circuit. That's why stuff is melted. Possibly blown up and damaged beyond repair.

 

How many times did you replace that blown fuse with another 30-amp one?

 

Need to find that short, cut it out and replace all melted wiring.

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1 hour ago, DannoXYZ said:

That fried fuse-holder should never have had 30-amp fuse in it. Should be 20-amp only

Hi Danno.

Bike is a 5gen. It's confusing, but the melted fuse holder is Main Fuse B 30amp.

The other fuse he says is always blowing calling it the "fuel pump fuse" is Sub Fuse B 20amp located in the fuse box, and labelled, Ignition - Fuel Pump - PGM-Fi.

Sounds like he has a couple of issues.

1. The mess of melted Main Fuse

2. The short taking out the Sub Fuse.

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16 hours ago, bluefunkyg said:

thats the fuse holder at the battery

It can't be the rectifer could it?

If the R/R developed a short then Yes it could take the Main Fuse or cause the melting.

But it should have no effect on the Sub Fuse in the fuse box you say is continually blowing! 

For testing purposes unplug the R/R at the 4p plug. See if you have any issues with the Main Fuse after that.

I hate to say this, but your mention of the Neutral light glowing very brightly and shortly after that the bike failed, makes me think the R/R may have failed to an Overvoltage state. This can and has caused a short within ECM that will take out that 20amp Sub Fuse. 

Anyway we shall see about that later!

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4 hours ago, Grum said:

Ok got it. Your bike is a 5gen, and you are blowing Sub Fuse B 20amp. Correct?

Your Main Fuse B 30amp still needs to be repaired as suggested.

Fault finding is still as mentioned.

 

Do you have a wiring diagram of your bike? You can download the Service Manual from this forum.

Can you use a mulimeter?

Wife’s dad is an auto spark hopefully he will find something out, will keep you posted.

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22 minutes ago, bluefunkyg said:

Wife’s dad is an auto spark hopefully he will find something out, will keep you posted.

Good luck and yes, let's know how you get on.

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8 hours ago, DannoXYZ said:

That fried fuse-holder should never have had 30-amp fuse in it. Should be 20-amp only. Since larger-than-designed fuse was installed, it didn't blow quick enough and too much current surged through circuit. That's why stuff is melted. Possibly blown up and damaged beyond repair.

 

How many times did you replace that blown fuse with another 30-amp one?

 

Need to find that short, cut it out and replace all melted wiring.

The melted one none it was just the small yellow fuse in the holder for the fuel pump keeps blowing straight way .

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Right  the fuel pump is fine, bypassed , there is no power from the ignition and to the fuel pump might be something to do with the hiss imobiliser .

what do you

think?

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Measure voltage on pink wire at ECU when key turned ON.

Also measure same pink wire at HISS immoboliser.

 

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3 hours ago, bluefunkyg said:

Right  the fuel pump is fine, bypassed , there is no power from the ignition and to the fuel pump might be something to do with the hiss imobiliser .

what do you

think?

- Is the H.I.S.S and Fi light On all the time after switch On?

- HAVE YOU REPAIRED THE WIRING MESS OF MAIN FUSE B 30amp???

- What did your Auto Electrician find and do??

- Are you still blowing Sub Fuse B in the fuse box?

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2 hours ago, DannoXYZ said:

Measure voltage on pink wire at ECU when key turned ON.

Also measure same pink wire at HISS immoboliser.

 

That might be tricky with a voltmeter!

Pink wire = Transponder key data to ECM.

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true, not simple voltage like earlier bikes.

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9 hours ago, Grum said:

- Is the H.I.S.S and Fi light On all the time after switch On?

- HAVE YOU REPAIRED THE WIRING MESS OF MAIN FUSE B 30amp???

- What did your Auto Electrician find and do??

- Are you still blowing Sub Fuse B in the fuse box?

fi light came on and still is on, 30amp fuse still blows, when I turn the ignition on, he run a wire straight to the fuel pump that works.

He found the blue connector under the tank to to fuel pump has power but there is a brown connector on the pump has no power going through it.

He thinks it something to do with the immobiliser.

 

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16 hours ago, bluefunkyg said:

fi light came on and still is on, 30amp fuse still blows, when I turn the ignition on, he run a wire straight to the fuel pump that works.

He found the blue connector under the tank to to fuel pump has power but there is a brown connector on the pump has no power going through it.

He thinks it something to do with the immobiliser.

 

Mate.....

You're not making things any easier, as if trying to sort your bike out is not difficult enough being thousands of kilometres away.

We rely on good feedback from questions, suggested tests and measurements to try and work out your issue!

 

- You are now saying "30amp fuse still blows" You had previously stated the Main Fuse B 30amp is NOT blowing but the Sub Fuse B 20amp in the Fuse Box is!

- You have not answered the question about the HISS Light!

- You have not answered (clearly) are you still blowing Sub Fuse B 20amp in the Fuse Box!

- You have not answered if the repair has be done to Main Fuse B 30amp!

- You are (or have been) blowing Sub Fuse B 20amp and now suggesting "it could be something to do with the immobiliser"!  

 

Suggest you take the bike to a reputable Honda Motorcycle service agent.

Seriously, if you don't have a basic understanding of electrics, not able to follow a wiring diagram, don't have the Service Manual and are not confident using a multimeter, then without any disrespect you shouldn't mess with your bikes electrics, you could easily make things a lot worse! 

I recall not so long ago a guy who decided to bypass the Fuel Cut Relay to run the Fuel Pump for a test! He carelessly jumped the wrong Relay base wires and destroyed his ECM!

 

Good Luck. Hope you get it all sorted.

 

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7 hours ago, Grum said:

Mate.....

You're not making things any easier, as if trying to sort your bike out is not difficult enough being thousands of kilometres away.

We rely on good feedback from questions, suggested tests and measurements to try and work out your issue!

 

- You are now saying "30amp fuse still blows" You had previously stated the Main Fuse B 30amp is NOT blowing but the Sub Fuse B 20amp in the Fuse Box is!

- You have not answered the question about the HISS Light!

- You have not answered (clearly) are you still blowing Sub Fuse B 20amp in the Fuse Box!

- You have not answered if the repair has be done to Main Fuse B 30amp!

- You are (or have been) blowing Sub Fuse B 20amp and now suggesting "it could be something to do with the immobiliser"!  

 

Suggest you take the bike to a reputable Honda Motorcycle service agent.

Seriously, if you don't have a basic understanding of electrics, not able to follow a wiring diagram, don't have the Service Manual and are not confident using a multimeter, then without any disrespect you shouldn't mess with your bikes electrics, you could easily makes things a lot worse. 

I recall not so long ago a guy who decided to bypass the Fuel Cut Relay to run the Fuel Pump for a test! He carelessly jumped the wrong Relay base wires and destroyed his ECM!

 

Good Luck. Hope you get it all sorted.

 

its not me its an auto spark doing this, he is looking at the wiring diagrams .

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