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TheDutchy last won the day on October 17 2016

TheDutchy had the most liked content!

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About TheDutchy

  • Rank
    Factory Team Rider

Profile Information

  • Location
    The Netherlands
  • In My Garage:
    1982 VF750S 1983 VF750F 1985 VF1000R 1993 VFR750F 1999 VFR800FI

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  1. What can you tell me about my VF500?

    For the location of the carbcode, here is an example:
  2. What can you tell me about my VF500?

    Yup, this is a track.... It's an abandoned military base in Germany... In classic events, we don't call it racing, it's a "Test Skill Ride".. And yes I do agree it has a certain risk level... On this german event, the levels are elevated, other events, even have higher risk elements, like racing over cobble stones through city streets... Wasn't it The Boss singing about racing in the Streets ?
  3. What can you tell me about my VF500?

    The slow jet is standard #38.. I wouldn't go beyond #40 on the slow jet. On most of the VF series the slow jet is #38. On my VF750 street bike the slowjet is #40. On the VF750 endurance racer, the slow jet is #42. I would recommend to install #40 on the slow jet. On the main jet, it is a different story, it is depending on what carb code is installed. The carb code is printed on the side of each carb housing, just above the mating surface of the float bowl. Different carbcode means different main jet sizes. Standard they came with: 1984 #108 mains all around.. 1985 VD41A A #90 #92 1985 VD41A B #92 #95 1986 #92 #95 The differences are caused by: Different breather lines on the float bowls, different emulsion tubes on the main jets, different vac. slide/membrane, fuel pump / gravity fed.. So, determine the carb code, lower the size of the slow jet, lower the size on the main jet..
  4. What can you tell me about my VF500?

    As above, drop the jet sizes... We are running 112 with open box, open baffles... For street use, I would not recommend that.. But it is an indication that at least you have to resize the 117's below the 112's.. (98/95 is a maybe, you have to trial and error these jetsizes) Listening to your vid., you take her to about 5krpm. That is about where the main jets start to take over. If you take her above 6k and she starts to stumble heavy at 6 , 7, 8, 9 krpm. The jets are to big.. The engine is choking on the amount of fuel... And yes, the engine won't mind, neither get hurt taking her beyond 9krpm.. Here the VF500F with a modified '86 engine running on track.. Look at the rpm's The earlier '84 and '85 engines have issues if you run her above 9k for extensive periods.. It will run the conrod bearings out.. The 1986 versions have a modified oilsump and pump that takes care of it.. This same VF500F also runs 4 hour Endurance events.. Imagine a VF500F run for four hours on that same track as in the vid... I know she held up fine.. It took me 8 times getting the carbs out / swapping jets / building the carbs back in / balancing them / and test ride it.. Once we got it right, we never needed to go back into the carbs again..
  5. 1986 VFR750F decals.

    CBdecals sells a full set for a 750 https://cbdecals.afegraphics.com/view_product.php?adminshopping=&product=86vfr750f-FullKit-H9427
  6. And A river runs through it..
  7. What can you tell me about my VF500?

    Yeah, and above 10k. But if you take a look at the torque graph, 10k is about the sweet spot..
  8. What can you tell me about my VF500?

    On the vid... Do you really hit 5krpm ?? Take her up to 10K, that is the ballpark we take the engine.. Till 4K it is only the slow jet..(#38) To test the mains you have to take her up beyond that point..
  9. What can you tell me about my VF500?

    We run the VF500F with open baffles and open airbox.. So lots of air and a need for large jets you would figure.. Here is a testrun with 120 mains... You van hear it stumble in the high range rpms. Pulled the plugs and they were heavily soothed and near wet.. So resized the jets to 112.. And back.. So, I think the 117 is a bit big for a main on a stock VF500F engine..
  10. Vf1000r needles

    It depends on what model year VF1000R you have. 1984 has #38 slow and 145 mains.. 1985 has #38 slow and 125 mains.. California versions #38 slow and #120 (Back) / # 122 (Front) mains.. Needle info, I need the carb code number stamped just above the float bowl... Remember.. Dynojet uses different jet size coding.. 130 Dynojet is roughly 140 in Keihin size... In addition, the Dynojet kit used to come with there own springs.. Also the kit contained some drills to enlarge the holes drilled in the slide.. Not the hole that holds the needle, but the hole for the vacuum operation of the slide.. Check if the holes are drilled. If still black anodized, you are fine, if the holes show aluminium colour, they are most likely enlarged.. That means, you can't go back easy..
  11. Thanks Michael... We got this one fixed again... While continuing my trip to Brussel, coming in to Brussel, it was closed for traffic.. Today happened to be Car Free Sunday.. That's nice if you want to go to your hotel..
  12. Nice picture... Allthough... Did you choose that location on purpose? In life many of these bikes end up in a similar shredder as in the background of that picture...
  13. Endurance Racing VF500 build.

    From my point of view that is a very wise decission.. I have been there more than once.. On the Suzuki endurance racer we had two races where we didn't even finish the qualifying sessions.. Race one was justified to mechanical rebuild issues.. The ( automated) camchain tensioner wheel came off and was lost on the track.. Not something you would fab instantly.. Second race, we suffered on severy oil spills caused by underdesigned breather lines.. But as soon we got these items tackled, we came in 4th on the next race and a #2 spot following that one.. On the VF500F we toasted two engines before we got it right.. Larger oilsump, larger oilpump, fuel delivery and an extra radiator were the mods..But we could only adress these items during race events.. Coming back to the earlier comment I made about a "Wise Decission".. Take it easy, and do your homework right.. Take it to the track and get the experience on short stints.. 20 mins or so.. Then take it to 45 mins stints and so on.. To me.. I never seen a fresh bike build for a Classic Endurance event that has survived the whole race without issues.. That's the samething like running the olympic marathon without any preparation..
  14. Endurance Racing VF500 build.

    I could send you the Original needles for a non-cali version... Also bump the slow jets from #38 to #40.. Then start to play with the mains... IIRC we are running #110 on the mains (No aorbox cover, just a flame guard mesh) and open pipes..
  15. What can you tell me about my VF500?

    As far as i know, you can´t get the rear head removed with the engine in the frame.. Allthough the 500 does have bolts on the outer corners of the cilinderhead, instead of studs like the VF750 and VF1000, the timing chain guides cause trouble. You can´t raise the head far enough to clear these guides..