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So I rode my bike into work and when I went to start her for ride home. Seemed like my battery was dead... no problem there’s a jump box... famous last words... I get bike started and ride home about ten minutes. Park. Next day go to start bike. No power. Smh look down and notice my harness from ignition and start stop switch are melted and grounded out... uh o... well it’s early spring and I had just put new tires on and recovered my saddle.... so I’m thinking I’ll band aid this and just re solder ... pull everything off start soldering then decide, maybe cheap is not the way to go... So I order an aftermarket ignition (still being cheap... fu*%&$) And put it and a used switch back on. Nothing no power lights at all.... Look at main fuse looks ok. Look through ignition info that came with it, realized that this ignition works w vfr but not wired/connected as such... unplug, finish soldering original toasty ignition. Plug in, Nothing... Well that was last year... Fortunately I have another bike so I was able to ride at least part of the season... (on my bike I don’t have a new set of tires on :(. ) So my question is.... 1.What might I have f’d up either by using a boost box to jump? 2. By shorting out with improperly wired aftermarket ignition 3. Other than main fuse any other fuses or electrical components I should test first? rectifier? computer? Thanks for any insight. Much appreciated!

Hi, I need help. My bike stator and r/r died months ago. I replace stator and r/r similar to previous one and installed also VFRNess. It show charging only until I increase engine speed. Then it drop charging. I made a small test drive and end of that I got misfires. Engine not worked normally. I replaced r/r with mosfet one. Now it charging as it should be. But rear cylinders not work at all. I replaced front and rear plugs and colis, still rear ones not work. I measure, that black-white wire in coil plug got 0.04 to 5 V, front got 11-12 V, so I assume that rear should also get 12 V. I was able to test another bike ECU, still no change, so probably it is not faulty ECU. I measure right after ECU gray plug on yellow wire and got also very low voltage and it seems, that voltage for that wire has dropped over time. It was 3-5 week ago, now barely 0.05V. So far, bike starts and runs on 2 cylinders, yesterday night it didn't start at all. Any idea what could causing this? If ECU is ok, is it possible that some sensor (separately front and rear?) has died? Any other thoughts? EDIT: Figure it out. Yellow wire was wrong one. Low voltage there indicate some problems in harness. Reason for my problem was broken black-white wire in harness.

I am changing out the entire wiring harness for my 6th gen. I've got everything disconnected I think, I just can't seem to sneak it out from beside the engine block and the frame. Do I cut the tape, and take the harness out in two pieces? Do I cut the tape on the new harness, and install it in two pieces then re-wrap it? are there more headaches in store for me? lol

Hi All, On my last bike trip I experienced a failure of my stator, one of the coils burnt out. It was great fun being stranded , but I was lucky enough to find the only part available in Britain to have it delivered the next day to where I was (as opposed to a 5 day wait from Belgium). Before the bike cut out completely I noticed my heated grips wouldn't come on. I've had issues with them in the past, and I've posted about it on-line here. The general census was that my controller box for the grips were corroded from water leakage, and after pulling it apart it looked to be true. The grips would still intermittently work, the light would flash every now and then, but sometimes not actually work. Fast forward back to my bike trip before the stator issue, the heated grips wouldn't even light up to say they were getting power for a whole day before the stator died. The day it actually died, I noticed that it took a while to turn the engine over due to a near-dead battery, the grips still wouldn't turn on, and my Garmin GPS wasn't detecting the iPod connected to it. The GPS connects off the Sub harness, from there the iPod connects via USB to the GPS. Of course, also, my heated grips connect to the Sub harness. After replacing the stator and battery I was up and running again, but on the way home (final day) I noticed issues on a few occasions (3 or 4 times) that they were cutting out like before, but thankfully never fully did. I have since checked the battery is still being charged by using a multimeter, but I would like to know how I go about checking the Sub harness is OK. I have a feeling that maybe the controller for the heated grips is doing something dodgy, but without replacing the controller I don't know for sure (I'm more than likely going to replace it soon anyway, just a bit of spending I don't want to do yet). Any ideas on what parts of the harness to check, and what voltage should be coming thru them? I'm fairly new to the electrical testing side, so please be idiot-descriptive if possible.

Is there any such thing as a wiring harness reference chart? i.e. Will an 02-03 6 gen wiring harness fit on a 2000 5 gen bike? In other words , just because the parts numbers might not match up do any of the wiring harnesses plug and play on different bikes? Anyone know? Thanks.

Hey guys, Sorry if this has been posted, I didnt find exactly what I was looking for in a quick search. So my bike isnt charging and Im assuming its my R/R. When its running it runs perfectly and doesnt die, but if I test the battery while it is running it only reads 12.14. Im assuming since my bike runs perfectly once its started that it isnt the stator, but should I test it anyway? and I'm sure I can just follow the instructions in the manual, but I have absolutely know knowledge of wiring and electronics, so is there a specific way I should test the R/R?